Stripping Clear Coat Off Engine Parts/Covers

[Rednaxs60]

Have been looking at the finish on some of the parts on the various threads and have also been looking at the different products that have been used to strip the clear coat, then clean and reapply a new clear coat for protection. The unfortunate part is that up here north of the 49th, we are a kinder-gentler nation that is outlawing products that do the job.

Bought some Circa 1950 Paint Stripper that is supposed to remove almost everything, but did not do the trick.

Any Canucks have product recommendations (those that can be found in Canada) that would strip the clear coat off of parts/covers so these can be refurbished?

Cheers

[minimac]

If you can get the parts off, and cleaned afterward, bead blasting will do the job. You could also sandblast them. Not very good for plastic parts though.

[Rednaxs60]

There is a business in town that lets owners do their own sand/bead blasting. Something like $45.00 an hour. Should be able to do quite a few parts in that time. The shop will do it for you for a few more sheckles - possibility as well.

[MikeB]

Under that clear coat is a shiny valve cover. After you bead blast it, it will not be shiny any more. Even if you use a soda blaster it will still end up with a dull finish surface and you will have to polish it. I'd suggest finding a paint removing compound that will remove the clear coat. Talk to a automotive paint shop and ask what they would use and if is is available for you to purchase.

[Rednaxs60]

I think I'll take one of the timing belt covers with me and get a recommendation. All good info.

Cheers

[landisr]

Once pieces are free of coating, you can buff the aluminum with 0000 steel wool, then use various grades of polishing compounds. There are as many opinions about those as there are about oil. But the steel wool works.

Ron

[Overdog]

I just buffed right through the coating with a cloth wheel on my bench grinder. 0000 steel wool to keep it shiny

[Rednaxs60]

Tried paint stripper, easy off oven cleaner and brake cleaner, all did something to varying degree(s). Had a good look at the covers and there are areas that are already through to bare aluminum so I took sand paper to the covers. Started with 60 grit all the way up to 2000. Put two coats of zinc chromate on as a primer and will paint with gloss aluminum tomorrow. Going to pick up some higher grade paper to wet sand the finish coats. If this works well will use same process on valve covers.

Will post pictures of before and after tomorrow.

Cheers

[mud/dauber]

Rednax,
I used carb cleaner to cut through the clear coating then also varying grades of wet sand paper and good old soap and water.Then, was able to buff them with a wheel and compound to a chromium like shine. Lighter fluid on a rag to remove buffing compound residue again with the soap and water and was very pleased with the results. Compared to parts I just prepped and painted with shiny silver, the buffed belt covers, valve covers, and carb covers look so much better. Even did the front forks. A lot of work and elbow grease but worth it on rainy days in the garage with your music on.

[flash2002]

If your not in a rush, wait for this winter and then take the parts you find ugly and have them powder coated the color you want. I did that on one of my bikes and it looks good.

[Rednaxs60]

Have thought about powder coating, do like the end result. Thankfully, I intend to keep the '85 LTD (never get my investment back). Have always wanted to refurbish and bring an older bike back to original.

Want to take out the engine and clean it all round, and paint. Have to do the valve covers as well. Should be able to get the 4 covers bead blasted for around $50.00, and then powder coat. Doing the spray can at this time allows me to find out what is available here on the island.

Took some before and after pictures of the worst timing belt cover:

Worst looking timing belt cover

Timing belt cover redone

Both covers had dings as well as deep scratches and the paint removed to bare aluminum. Sanded down to bare aluminum, 2 coats of zinc chromate, 3 coats of Tremclad gloss aluminum, then 2 coats of clear lacquer. Think they turned out not too bad - will tide me over until I decide on the next move.

[MikeB]

Check with the powder coaters but I am relatively certain they bead blast the parts for powder coating as a part of the normal process.

[flash2002]

This is one the the motors I did, sand blasted, painted and powder coated.

[Rednaxs60]

Very nice. I do like the powder coating aspect. Have collector plates on my '85, would not expect that some judicious powder coating would affect this status.

[mud/dauber]

Well done! That truly looks awesome. I know you will be proud of the finished bike; show it off and good luck with the rest of it. Keep submitting pictures of it. I'm curious to see how it turns out!

Mud dauber

[minimac]

Flash- that looks outstanding! You've convinced me to one of my naked bikes this winter.

[flash2002]

This is the bike when it was finish, it was a barn find. All the parts that had rust I add powder coated even the rims.

[Scooter363y]

I have been hearing of something called vapor blasting (I think). The results look like brand new. I live in the states though. It could be a challenge to find it in your neck of the woods.

Ride safe
Scooter

[Scooter363y]

Try looking at this!



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!

[Rednaxs60]

I have been hearing of something called vapor blasting (I think). The results look like brand new. I live in the states though. It could be a challenge to find it in your neck of the woods.

Ride safe
Scooter

We have this up here as well. I stumbled onto a company in Chilliwack, BC that does vapor blasting as well as DIY sand blasting services. Would only be a trip across the straight for a day. Thanks for the info.

Cheers