milky colored oil

[fargofour]

Hello,

This spring when I changed the oil on my GL1500 after winter storage, the oil looked like a four quart latte, tan colored.

Here's what I've done:
Drained winter oil, notice milky oil
Put fresh oil in, ran for 20 - 30 minutes, drained, milky oil
Put fresh oil in, ran for 20 - 30 minutes, drained, milky oil
Replaced both head gaskets
Put fresh oil/ATF (mixed 50/50) in, ran for 20 - 30 minutes, drained, milky oil
Put fresh oil in, ran for 20 - 30 minutes, drained, milky oil
Put fresh oil in, ran for 20 - 30 minutes, drained, milky oil
I've put about 25 miles or so on it in town, going to work and such. Engine starts fine, runs great, doesn't overheat, just seems normal.

Here's a picture of the oil I drained today.

Not sure where to go next.

Of course I did hear that Gold Wings have an expresso machine somewhere so maybe that's it.

Thanks,
Bud.

[AZgl1800]

I suggest you might have had faster results using Sea Foam in the crankcase before the first drain.

4 oz in the oil, run the bike about a 100 miles, and then drain it. Repeat as necessary until the drained oil is as clean as what went in.

Sea Foam is a marine based product, intended to remove water products, and sludge products from metal. It has a terrific history of good success.

I still think you should use it at least once even after all you have done. So far, you have not done anything to remove sludge and varnish coating the internals and clutch plates.

I did it twice on a 1500 that I obtained after it sitting up for two years.

[WingAdmin]

Is your coolant level going down? Sure sounds like you've still got coolant getting into the crankcase. If you've properly done the head gaskets, and you're losing coolant into the crankcase, you've got a couple potential causes:

- failed seals in water pump. Normally the seals prevent the coolant from getting into the oil or vice versa. If it does leak, it's supposed to leak out the weep hole instead of mixing. Some clueless previous owners see it leaking and think it is a problem, and try to "fix" the problem by plugging it with caulk, epoxy, or even a sheet metal screw.

- cracked block. Not much else to say about that, if this is the cause, it's time for a new engine.

[ct1500]

After six oil changes it would be clear. Pressure test the cooling system for leaks both cold and with engine hot.

[virgilmobile]

As mentioned by the admin.
My88 was submersed in flood water.I did flush mine 5 times before the oil stayed clean.The first 2 flushes looked the same as yours and each one after that got progressive cleaner.
Yours is staying the same.Theres definitely water getting back into the oil.
Do check the water pump drain hole.Unplug it if needed.Seeing antifreeze come out of it would be the best senerio.

[eklimek]

that is, as other stated, water/coolant in oil. stop what your doing and find the leak.

my money is on a head gasket. pull the plugs. which one is cleaner than the others? take the head off. if you are lucky a new gasket is a quick fix.

regards

[bluthundr31]

He said he replaced both head gaskets already, (after the second oil change as I read it). How did the head look when you changed the gaskets? Any clues or "unusual" marks that you can recall? You're confident you cinched them heads down with the right amount of torque, , and in the right "order" of tightening?

Best case scenario might be water pump problems, , , , worst case is a cracked head/block somewhere. Check the plugs closely, it might give a clue.

[eklimek]

my bad. sorry .

Begs question, What did the old head gaskets show?

Pressure testing should confirm leak. (may miss small leak that opens with temperature unlikely)

If related to combustion chamber you may see bubbles in rad.

If related to valve seat you may find steam in exhaust.

If intake valve, spark plug should be steam cleaned.

If any of these can be found the head needs to be replaced. Cross fingers the block is good.

Please let us know the answer.

[fargofour]

First off, thanks to all who offered insights and suggestions.

When I pulled the heads I didn't see any obvious signs on the heads or gaskets. I did have the heads pressure tested and skimmed to make sure they were flat.

Also the other day I checked and the coolant level seems to be the same. I am going to get a pressure tester and check to see if the cooling system holds pressure.

When I drained the oil, the picture I posted, I measured it and it came out about an ounce more.

I'll do another oil change.

I did add Seafood like AZgl1800 suggested.

I did look for a weep hole but the 1500 is supposed to have a telltale hole, but for the life of me I couldn't find it. I'll do some more exploring this week.

Thanks again for the advice and points to ponder.

It's coming up on winter storage time and I have two other Gold Wings so I'm not on foot. This way I can dwell on it over the winter.

Bud.

[virgilmobile]

Please don't delay.Been there done that.
You would be promoting rust worms inside the engine if just left setting.
I've lost 2 other engines from the flood from this.My Argo and mower.They we're drained but not cleaned out.Rust set in on the whole innards...including the cylinders.
If you absolutely cannot resolve this and get the moisture out of the engine in short order...at least prep it for storage.
On my 88 with water in the engine..I drained all the oil out and layed it on the left side and filled the engine with diesel fuel..Stood it back up and topped it off through the dip stick.Flooding the entire block kept it safe.I restored it 4 months later.It held about 4 gallons.
The telltale hole(weep hole) is there.You may have to scratch around for it in case it's been plugged.

[Erdeniz Umman]

Have you checked the clear hoses next to the alternator, are they empty and clean?

In my opinion, if it were the coolant in the oil it would be white in color, it seems like gas in the oil.

[WingAdmin]

Have you checked the clear hoses next to the alternator, are they empty and clean?

In my opinion, if it were the coolant in the oil it would be white in color, it seems like gas in the oil.

Water or coolant in the oil turns it into that milky emulsion like shown in that picture. Gas will just thin the oil, but leaves it the same color - it also smells strongly of gas, and the gas evaporates quickly once the oil gets hot.

[fargofour]

Have you checked the clear hoses next to the alternator, are they empty and clean?

In my opinion, if it were the coolant in the oil it would be white in color, it seems like gas in the oil.

Good call and I did check them and they were both full of water. I have since left the plugs out of the hoses.

Thanks to all who offered advice. For the time being I'm running the bike just in town, and not much at that. I may do the diesel flush but for sure I will do another oil change with seafoam before the winter put away.

Bud.

[fargofour]

I removed the water pump and although it looked OK my wife wisely said that I've spent the amount of a new pump in oil changes. Order the dang thing! So I did.

More as it develops.


Bud.

[joebiodiesel]

If your oil is turning milky that fast, I'd pressure test the cooling system next time I drained it.
Drain the oil.
Put a pressure tester on the radiator.
Leave the drain plug out of it.
See of you get coolant out the drain plug hole.

If you are, there's no sense in refilling the oil.
Pull the spark plugs.
Spin the engine over with the starter.
See if you get any coolant out of the spark plug holes.

I'd also use my video borescope to look in the oil pan and plug holes...but not everyone has one of those.

Joe

[fargofour]

When I get the new water pump I'll do a pressure test.

Thanks.

[fargofour]

Well I solved the problem. I'm selling the bike!

An update. I bought a new water pump and put it in. Filled with coolant, fill the oil and tried to starting. Sounded like I was stirring a bucket of nuts. The just the starter spinning.

Took off the pulse generator cover on the front, pulled the plugs, and I was able to turn the motor counter-clockwise (looking at the motor) but not the other way. Short story long, starter would intermittently make the grinding noise and then just spin. Finally couldn't turn the motor either way. So my guess is the starter system went south. I really don't want to pull the motor.

So I put it on Craigslist and just going to sell it. I have my 1200 and 1000 wings to keep me busy. Just fed up with it. Might be different if I had a heated shop to work on it during the winter, but I don't.

Thanks for all the advise. Guess this was not to be.

Bud.

[DenverWinger]

On the upside, I'm sure the 1200 and the 1000 will appreciate the extra love......

[eklimek]

Sounds like the sprague clutch has corroded.

The R&R for this is $2,000. There are some short cuts others have posted. You might want to try this.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34087&p=204211#p204211

[eklimek]

sorry wrong link

try this

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=22207

[fargofour]

Sounds like the sprague clutch has corroded.

The R&R for this is $2,000. There are some short cuts others have posted. You might want to try this.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34087&p=204211#p204211

I think it's more serious that that. I cant turn the engine manually and the starter, if it does engage sounds like I'm stirring a can of nuts. If it doesn't sell I'll look at pulling the motor and taking the rear cover off.

Bud.

[eklimek]

Maybe you are right.

With the spark plugs out (no compression resistance) does it catch and spin normally, at least occasionally? Then it's the sprague clutch.