semi-synthetic oil

[TwoTone Trike]

Would it be alright to use a semi-synthetic as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers in it?

[minimac]

What makes it "semi-synthetic"? It either is or it isn't. A synthetic mixed with dino, is no longer synthetic.

[TwoTone Trike]

You tell me as I don;t know. I'm just stating what the manufacturer (Lucas) states on the bottle. It also says it is designed for wet clutches. I've had good luck with Lucas in my ole 53 Panhead and would to try it in my 99 Wing. Thanks, Tony

[harvey01]

I would be concerned that the weight of the oil meets cycle manufacturer and that the oil meet other certifications it requires such as JAS.

Honda makes or has ade to their specs a semi-synthetic that has worked well in my GL1800 for over 120,000 miles.

[TwoTone Trike]

It meets jaso ma2. Designed for wet clutches.

[AZgl1800]

It meets jaso ma2. Designed for wet clutches.

then you are good to go....

the single most important thing to remember, is to pull the drain plug on regular schedules, not what brand of oil is in the crankcase.

[TwoTone Trike]

Yes that's what I thought. It's 10w40. Thanks, Tony

[TwoTone Trike]

Mini said, What makes it "semi-synthetic"?. It either is or it isn't. A synthetic mixed with dino is no longer synthetic. I came here looking for help and you answered my question with a question. If you had no idea then why did you even chime in? Quite snidely, as a matter of fact. I don't know why I'm surprised. You're from New Yawk.

[Viking]

All three are fine for your motorcycle as long as they meet the requirements to begin with. A 10W40 that is JASO MA/MA2 certified will work just fine. If it is Dino oil, I would change it out at 3K, a Semi Synth at 5K, and a full Synth at 7K to 10K depending on the severity of your riding conditions. All three, if used as mentioned, will protect your bike and lubricate appropriately. From what I understand, a semi synthetic is formulated using Dino Base Stock and has synthetic properties added to it during the mixing process. A Dino oil is indeed out of the ground and being fully natural, has different sized molecules throughout its content. This is like different sized balls in a bearing. They actually work against the sheer properties of the oil. A full synthetic is formulated from Esther or Di-esther base stocks which have been synthezised to have identically sized molecules, which do not work against themselves. The sheer properties last much longer.

All of these should be changed at 3 to 5 thousand miles if your motorcycle is operated under severe conditions, such as off road with dust, or stop and go, or a lot of starts and stops. All of these things contribute to the contamination of your engine oil. If none of these is present in your day to day operation, then this does not apply.

I personally use Amsoil 10W30 Metric motorcycle oil for 10K or one year, whichever comes first. I usually end up changing halfway, as the 10K has been reached. When I change in summer months, I go to 10W40 in the same oil, and when I store the bike in the fall, back to 10W30 so I am ready for the cooler temps in the spring. I seldom get more than 20K a year. If you happen to notice that I am in Canada, ignore it for the mileage numbers, as all in this post are meant to be read as miles.

One thing I should mention here is that semi synthetic oil manufacturers have no regulation as to how little or how much synthetic properties there oil have. There could be as little as an eyedropper in a gallon, or even less. If you were to pay significantly more for a semi synthetic than for a dino oil, you may not be getting your moneys worth at all.

[TwoTone Trike]

Thank you Viking for your explanation of a semi-synthetic. I had know idea as to it's chemical make-up. I'll keep all of this in mind. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. It's people like you that help to educate people like me . Lord knows I can use all the education that I can get. Have a good day. Tony

[minimac]

There was nothing snide in my comment. A "semi-synthetic" is still a dino based oil. Adding some of the synthetic properties (friction modifiers) doesn't make it a synthetic, is just a modified dino. As I said, it either is synthetic or it's not. Calling it something else doesn't make it so. Being a wise ass is not a good way to get people to help educate you.

[TwoTone Trike]

Sorry mini for taking it that way. Please accept my humble apology. Tony

[cihilb]

If you get right down to it, all engine oil is semi-synthetic. They contain additives that enhance the properties of the oil. Whether is friction modifiers or anti-foaming agents, temp stabilizers or anything else that makes the oil lubricate better.

[gervais]

The Amsoil 10w30 Synthetik,,
would you have the product code on the bottle?

i would check if i can find it around ,
thanks
gervais
riviere-bleue,Quebec

[Viking]

The Amsoil 10w30 Synthetik,,
would you have the product code on the bottle?

i would check if i can find it around ,
thanks
gervais
riviere-bleue,Quebec

You can find the complete data sheet for this here:

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=MCTQT-EA

Private message me if you need a source to obtain it.

[gervais]

thanks for the link,
i am not sure if the Amsoil products are sold around here but i will do some
phone call monday.

thanks again

or
if i can find some equivalent on a more known brand also

gervais

[Rednaxs60]

Any oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API classification SE, SF or SG and is a high detergent oil is acceptable for 1500 use - right out of the owner's manual. No mention of JASO certification for 1200 or 1500 models.

GL1800 use API SG or higher with no friction modifiers as indicated on the circular API service label, and/or JASO T 903 MA certification.

On the older 1200/1500 models use good oil, and make sure there are no friction modifiers as indicated on the API service label. The motorcycle industry uses the auto industry standards and then amplify the requirement if required.

Here is some info to use a guide at this web site: http://www.pqiamerica.com/devilsindisguise.htm. A Reader's Digest so to speak:

"The code for passenger cars consists of two letters beginning with "S." The "S" is followed by a letter that advances up the alphabet from "SA" to "SB, to "SC" etc., starting in the 1920s (skipping "I' and "K"). The current specification is API "SN", introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and newer vehicles (although they can be used in older vehicles as well). The second letter in the code is critical to read before buying. This is because it indicates the vehicle model year the oil was formulated to service.

As shown above, API "SA" oil was the first in the API Service Classification for gasoline motor oils. These oils were formulated for use in vehicles built prior to 1930. That's right, motor oil made for cars built nearly 80 years ago! The API cautions, these oils are "obsolete" and their "use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm." But API SA is not alone; the API issues the same caution for motor oils designated SA through SE. Furthermore, although the API does not issue the same cautions for SF, SG, and SH, they make it clear these motor oils are also "obsolete."

So how do your recognize and avoid the use of motor oils that can harm your engine? The answer is, look for the letters that follow the words "API Service" in the API Donut. If it's not an SN, SM, SL, or SJ, then it's an obsolete oil. And if there is no API Donut on the motor oil label, BEWARE - because there is a chance you could be buying coffee without the donut."

Here is the API timeline:

Here is an example of an API donut showing energy conservation in lower half of donut - do not want:

Here is an example of an API donut with no energy conservation marking in the lower half - what you are looking for:

The API rating for 1200/1500 models as specified in the owner's manuals of SE, SG, SF are discontinued, and modern oils are no longer certified to these older standards. The newer ratings of SJ, SL, SM, SN are current. So you want to look for oils with an API donut that indicates the modern ratings with no energy conservation additives indicated. European formulations that I have seen have no energy conservation additives, there may be those that do but I have not seen these.

So look for an oil that has an API rating of SE, SG, SF or higher API rating with no energy conservation additives in it, good to go.

Thinking out loud. Cheers

[gervais]

well
i have been using Castrol Syntek in ALL my engine EXCEPT my motorcycle because of their clutch that are in oil bath.

One i made the error and the clutch began to sleep and i changed the oil immediately,
BUT i loved Syntek oil because of their stability,

i have 2 choices,buy the Honda OEM and pay almost twice the price or buy another brand and i may switch at Castrol Motorcycle Oil (the white plastic bottle) that we can see at WallMart .Now ,,the grade.

the recommande 10w40 right!

i have always been using 20w50,,will it hurt?at spring and autom i would switch at 10w40.

oil is the engine blood!!!!!!

gervais

[Viking]

well
i have been using Castrol Syntek in ALL my engine EXCEPT my motorcycle because of their clutch that are in oil bath.

One i made the error and the clutch began to sleep and i changed the oil immediately,
BUT i loved Syntek oil because of their stability,

i have 2 choices,buy the Honda OEM and pay almost twice the price or buy another brand and i may switch at Castrol Motorcycle Oil (the white plastic bottle) that we can see at WallMart .Now ,,the grade.

the recommande 10w40 right!

i have always been using 20w50,,will it hurt?at spring and autom i would switch at 10w40.

oil is the engine blood!!!!!!

gervais

Gervais, I sent you a private message.