This is something I had never seen before. What an interesting idea.
The tool heats the bolt through induction - no direct heat contact. It basically creates a strong, pulsed magnetic field, which induces eddy currents inside the bolt, which heats the bolt up from the inside - without heating up anything else around it.
The bolt then comes free easily - just as shown in this video!
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At just over $500 though, I don't think it is at the top of my "next purchase" list...
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Ductor-Veno ... ref=sr_1_1
Seized bolt removal tool
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Mh434
- Posts: 1522
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1981 GL1100I
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Re: Seized bolt removal tool
Extreme cold works great, too. If you can chill the bolt to extreme low temperature, it shrinks...a LOT...and makes it easy to get out.
By way of example (albeit as an installation problem, rather than as an extraction one), I needed to install a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft of a motor I was working on. The bearing (a sealed Timpkin one, which couldn't be heated up without destroying its seals) was .009" too big for the hole in the end of the crankshaft. Getting the crank machined was a non-starter, as the cost & effort of doing so was close to the value of the motor itself.
Instead, I bought a can of "Dust Off" canned "air", for blowing dust off keyboards, etc. If you invert the can, a liquid sprays out, at something like -150*C. I did the math on how much shrinkage I could expect, and it seemed right, so I gave it a try. I inverted the can, suspended the bearing on the end of a screwdriver, and sprayed the bearing until it was uniformly frosty & white. I measured the bearing's outside diameter, and found it had shrunk by .017". It slipped into the end of the crankshaft with room to spare and, once it warmed up again, it was nice & tight, and true.
I've since tried this trick on steel bolts seized into aluminum - always a terrifying prospect. Once the bolt is completely cold, it almost spins out with your fingers. BE CAREFUL!! The cold is extreme, and WILL cause severe tissue damage on contact with skin!!! I use welding gloves and/or pliers to handle chilled parts.
It's nowhere near as elegant as the induction heater, but....it's cheap, and it works.
By way of example (albeit as an installation problem, rather than as an extraction one), I needed to install a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft of a motor I was working on. The bearing (a sealed Timpkin one, which couldn't be heated up without destroying its seals) was .009" too big for the hole in the end of the crankshaft. Getting the crank machined was a non-starter, as the cost & effort of doing so was close to the value of the motor itself.
Instead, I bought a can of "Dust Off" canned "air", for blowing dust off keyboards, etc. If you invert the can, a liquid sprays out, at something like -150*C. I did the math on how much shrinkage I could expect, and it seemed right, so I gave it a try. I inverted the can, suspended the bearing on the end of a screwdriver, and sprayed the bearing until it was uniformly frosty & white. I measured the bearing's outside diameter, and found it had shrunk by .017". It slipped into the end of the crankshaft with room to spare and, once it warmed up again, it was nice & tight, and true.
I've since tried this trick on steel bolts seized into aluminum - always a terrifying prospect. Once the bolt is completely cold, it almost spins out with your fingers. BE CAREFUL!! The cold is extreme, and WILL cause severe tissue damage on contact with skin!!! I use welding gloves and/or pliers to handle chilled parts.
It's nowhere near as elegant as the induction heater, but....it's cheap, and it works.