Rock auto, timing belts.

[Ravyn]

is there any place else to buy timing belts for a gl1500 other then Rock Auto. They have a very good price of 13.91 but only have one in stock. The local napa has them but for 39.99 each.

Also the Gates idler pulley number T42015 , is that a direct replacement or is there some modifying to do?

Thanks in advance......

[AZgl1800]

call the other auto stores,
O'Reilly's tends to be on the high side also, never priced their Gates belts for our bikes though

[Ravyn]

call the other auto stores,
O'Reilly's tends to be on the high side also, never priced their Gates belts for our bikes though

Yeah, O Reilly's was was higher then napa. And all the other auto stores around here were high as well.

[Andy Cote]

amazon had some at around $15 last time I looked

[dingdong]

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Gates-T275-Timin ... belts+T275

[Ravyn]

Hey, thank you guys for reminding me about Amazon. They had the Gates belts for a little over 16 bucks.
Dang... I have an account with Amazon and buy stuff from them time to time. Why didn't I think about trying them
Must be young timers setting in,,,,

[wiretician]

As for your tensioners, yes you have to modify the tensioner to take the T42015. But if you go to this link: http://www.sdb-e.com/TENSIONER/TENSIONE ... LD-JCS.pdf and copy the pdf you can modify the tensioner to take the bearing. I did a slightly modified Method #6. Works great. That is if you have access to a welder, I drilled out the center of the rivet holding the original pulley, with a bit just big enough to remove the shaft (3/8" I think). Then pressed in the 10mm wheel stud (specified in the pdf). Then welded the stud head to hold everything still. Ground the weld down to about an 1/8th inch high. Put newly modified plate on bike to see where it would need a little touch up, ground off about a 1/3rd of the weld so it would allow swing for tension adjustment. If that link doesn't work, go to the 1100 DIY section and look for the article on how to replace tensioner bearings, the first section of the thread will have the link in it. By the way (if you didn't know) the tensioner is the same for GL1000 through to the GL1500.

[Ravyn]

As for your tensioners, yes you have to modify the tensioner to take the T42015. But if you go to this link: http://www.sdb-e.com/TENSIONER/TENSIONE ... LD-JCS.pdf and copy the pdf you can modify the tensioner to take the bearing. I did a slightly modified Method #6. Works great. That is if you have access to a welder, I drilled out the center of the rivet holding the original pulley, with a bit just big enough to remove the shaft (3/8" I think). Then pressed in the 10mm wheel stud (specified in the pdf). Then welded the stud head to hold everything still. Ground the weld down to about an 1/8th inch high. Put newly modified plate on bike to see where it would need a little touch up, ground off about a 1/3rd of the weld so it would allow swing for tension adjustment. If that link doesn't work, go to the 1100 DIY section and look for the article on how to replace tensioner bearings, the first section of the thread will have the link in it. By the way (if you didn't know) the tensioner is the same for GL1000 through to the GL1500.

Thanks for the info. I already found that link and read it. Good information. I am not about to modify anything. For a few dollars more I don't have to fool around forever trying to get something else to work. I also do not have the time to do this. That's why I asked if that bearing needed some work to make it fit. I appreciate you getting back to me with that info.