Which loctite?

[C-dub]

I think the blue 242 is what I want. However, there is the warning about plastic.

My primary use at this time is for various small bolts and or screws. Most immediately are those inside the saddle bags and trunk that seem to vibrate loose with some regularity. I found one had dropped out of its hole a few days ago. I easily put it back it, but it got me to thinking. I'm already going to fix the "trunk rattle" soon before our next trip in 5 weeks. I'd also like to solve as much of this bolt screw issue as I can so it doesn't become an issue in the middle of our trip a few hundred miles from home.

Has anyone had any issues with 242 and their plastic? I think most of all the bolts go into metal, while some of the screws go into plastic. The top two screws in the trunk on the latch cover, for example, I know go into plastic.

[Rambozo]

242 would be the ideal for all the metal to metal joints. For the screws that go into plastic, a safe method is to just use a small dab of silicone on the side of the head after it is tightened to keep it from backing out, without getting any adhesive down in the threads.

[MikeB]

Any thread locker will eventually destroy the ABS plastic on the bike. The plastic will craze and then start to crumble and at that point all you can do is replace it. Keep thread locker away from plastic parts.

[C-dub]

Any thread locker will eventually destroy the ABS plastic on the bike. The plastic will craze and then start to crumble and at that point all you can do is replace it. Keep thread locker away from plastic parts.

Okay. With all that in mind, would it be better to avoid even using a thread locker on bolts that go through plastic and into metal? Then only use a thread locker on metal to metal parts that don't come in contact with plastic at all?

It is beginning to sound like the best way to ensure bolts and screws that come in contact with plastic at all is just to periodically check them to snug them down before they can come completely out.

[MikeB]

That is pretty much all you can do.

[M61A1MECH]

Any thread locker will eventually destroy the ABS plastic on the bike. The plastic will craze and then start to crumble and at that point all you can do is replace it. Keep thread locker away from plastic parts.

Okay. With all that in mind, would it be better to avoid even using a thread locker on bolts that go through plastic and into metal? Then only use a thread locker on metal to metal parts that don't come in contact with plastic at all?

It is beginning to sound like the best way to ensure bolts and screws that come in contact with plastic at all is just to periodically check them to snug them down before they can come completely out.

Keep Loctite products away from plastic, even if the fastener is just passing through the plastic, any seepage, spillage and even the fumes will cause severe damage to most plastics. I ran a R$D lab for 15 years and tested Loctite on all sorts of high tech and generic plastics, many all we did was to put a drop on the surface, that was enough to cause stress cracks to form, if we threaded screws in with Loctite it was worse because of the stress induced by the torque required to tighten the hardware. I agree with using a small dab of silicone and also have used plumbers Teflon tape on the screw thread to add a bit of bulk to the screw threads and that is enough to keep them from backing out and there is no mess like with silicone from a tube.

[C-dub]

I have silicon tape. That'll work!

[cihilb]

If it's the screws that go into plastic, use a piece of a nylon wire tie in the hole, then the screw. Cut the wire tie flush with the top of the hole.
If the screws are going into threaded inserts, use a dab finger nail polish on the screw.

[MikeB]

I have silicon tape. That'll work!

I think you mean Teflon tape.

[C-dub]

I have silicon tape. That'll work!

I think you mean Teflon tape.

Oh yeah. That last sentence had me thinking silicon. I've some of the white and used it on water fittings. I just thought it was for ensuring no water leaked through the threads. I didn't realize it would also ensure a smaller bolt or screw wouldn't vibrate back out.

[WingAdmin]

If it's the screws that go into plastic, use a piece of a nylon wire tie in the hole, then the screw. Cut the wire tie flush with the top of the hole.
If the screws are going into threaded inserts, use a dab finger nail polish on the screw.

I've used this method MANY times as a jury-rig fix for stripped threads. A toothpick works, too.

[edr421]

if all else fails, take a pair of pliers and crimp the threads. blue loctite if it is metal to metal, red is stronger and is for bearings.

[cihilb]

if all else fails, take a pair of pliers and crimp the threads. blue loctite if it is metal to metal, red is stronger and is for bearings.

NO LOCTITE anywhere near the plastic parts. Unless you want to replace them.

[Steve F]

One technique that I have HEARD of (not actually used) is to drill out the hole where the threads are slightly oversize, and fill the hole with JB WELD... ---BUT--- do not let it harden until you put the screw back in the hole.... ---AND---first you spray or coat the screw with silicone lubricant and then insert the screw, but don't tighten it. let the JB WELD harden over night, and then carefully remove the screw. The silicone lubricant SHOULD keep the threads from sticking to the JB, and you'll end up with a "new" thread in the hole. Trim off any excess JB from the area and reassemble like normal.

[cihilb]

One technique that I have HEARD of (not actually used) is to drill out the hole where the threads are slightly oversize, and fill the hole with JB WELD... ---BUT--- do not let it harden until you put the screw back in the hole.... ---AND---first you spray or coat the screw with silicone lubricant and then insert the screw, but don't tighten it. let the JB WELD harden over night, and then carefully remove the screw. The silicone lubricant SHOULD keep the threads from sticking to the JB, and you'll end up with a "new" thread in the hole. Trim off any excess JB from the area and reassemble like normal.

I have also used this technique. Instead of silicone, it's one of the many uses for WD40.

[C-dub]

As always, I greatly appreciate all your insight.

FYI, I'm not asking this time about fixing something that is broken, but only to prevent screws/bolts from vibrating and backing out. I'll change my own oil for the first time on my Wing next weekend and will probably also put some PTFE(teflon) tape on as many of the little screws/bolts inside the bags and trunk as I can find and get to without too much difficulty. It's all preventative stuff I'm thinking of getting ready for a 4-5 day trip next month.

[tamathumper]

I've got a lot of miles on my bike and have never had a screw back out. What's going on that you have screws loosening up?

[C-dub]

I've got a lot of miles on my bike and have never had a screw back out. What's going on that you have screws loosening up?

Don't know. It's only been one so far and not really a screw, but rather a bolt. One of the small ones inside the right saddlebag at the top. It just dropped down and was sitting their one day when I opened the door. The roads around here have some pot holes, but not that many. At least I didn't think so. Its nothing I've checked before, so maybe I just need to check periodically.

Or I can go ahead and put some PTFE tape on all of them. I still don't know exactly what caused the left bag latch to fail last year. My first thought was a couple bolts had backed out and that put too much stress on it and it cracked off, but don't really know for sure. Maybe it cracked from shutting the door too hard and then bolts the came out.

I'm coming up on 22k miles and a couple months past two years. Maybe it's about time for something like this since I've never checked these before.