Clear coating small area

[Corkster52]

After repairing the cracks on the farthest back holes where the trunk lid rack was mounted, I shifted my focus to the 2 forwardmost holes that were pulled up beyond flush. The leveling and painting portions are done but I'm curious what others have done to clear coat each of these areas that are about 2 inches in diameter? The only clear coating I have done so far is just to repair scratches and cracks. Has anyone had success with "rattle-can" clear coating?

Clear coat 1

Clear coat 2

[WingAdmin]

I've used this type of clear coat before on a car. It was part of a three-step paint repair kit. There was a base coat (white), a metallic coat (white with metallic bits), and a clear coat. It was created specifically for the car by an aftermarket supplier. It worked extremely well. As with all paint, preparation is the key to good end results.

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Spray ... ref=sr_1_7

[pocketchange]

The problem comes with using a less than a top quality product.. Use FRESH whatever you decide on.
I have had excellent results with Gloss Clear Coat from AutomotiveTouchup (1-888-710-5192/automotivetouchup.com)
pc

[Rambozo]

One thing you may want to look into is something called re-coat sealer. Often there is a time window where the clear is meat to be applied to the base coat and if you are outside that window, the clear can lift the base paint. Same is true for using a different formula of clear. The best example is trying to spray clear acrylic lacquer over a base coat of acrylic enamel. Instant wrinkle finish. Re-coat sealer will keep all those bad things from happening. This info was from back when these paints were current (late 80s early 90s) No idea how any of this works with more modern catalyzed finishes. Ask at your local paint shop if you can still find one. That was how I learned about re-coat sealer when a paint job went really bad. Then I would clear the entire lid instead of trying to blend. Wet sand, buff, Bob's your uncle.

[cihilb]

One other thing to consider. Talk to a local body shop. They may do the entire trunk lid when they are painting another vehicle. You would probably have to prep the entire lid, but they may do it little or no cost.
Can't hurt to ask.

[Corkster52]

I have had excellent results with Gloss Clear Coat from AutomotiveTouchup (1-888-710-5192/automotivetouchup.com)
pc

Look like good products. I also like their spray gun to turn the button into a trigger https://www.automotivetouchup.com/store ... igger.aspx

[Corkster52]

One other thing to consider. Talk to a local body shop. They may do the entire trunk lid when they are painting another vehicle. You would probably have to prep the entire lid, but they may do it little or no cost.
Can't hurt to ask.

That's a great idea Would be the perfect thing to have done when the snow flies here in the Chicago area.

[Corkster52]

I've used this type of clear coat before on a car.

WingAdmin, did you intend to attach a link to the product?

[WingAdmin]

I've used this type of clear coat before on a car.

WingAdmin, did you intend to attach a link to the product?

oops, yes I did! This is the product/supplier I used:

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Spray ... ref=sr_1_7

They have kits like this for pretty much every paint color. It takes some prep work and patience, but the end result comes out looking perfect and undetectable, just like it came from a body shop.

[Corkster52]

Was just looking at the website, and just the clear coat, where it says it dries in 10 minutes. Surprising.

https://scratchwizard.net/accessories/c ... -coat.html

[CrystalPistol]

Not that it helps you with clearcoating, but are you repairing to put the trunk rack back on … or … just removing all evidence of a trunk rack?

I ask only because I went through this with my '85 so when I got the trike, one of first things I did was make bigger washers from 1/8 aluminum, just over 3" OD for the rear legs, and cut same size washers from thin rubber for under them, to replace star washers previous owner had used. On the inside or trunk, I used some smaller 1/4" fender washers with black gorilla tape (as a cushion between abs & washer) under them.

Never use lock-tite near the ABS body parts.

[Corkster52]

Not that it helps you with clearcoating, but are you repairing to put the trunk rack back on … or … just removing all evidence of a trunk rack?

Glad you asked as I have considered both options. With all that I have bit off fixing the cracks and repainting, I will probably reinstall it to "to cover up the ugly". I like your idea of the 3" aluminum pieces I believe I will do the same. In all of my messing around with various do-dads on the bike earlier in the summer, I was pleasantly surprised to find, with enough effort, common off the shelf aluminum angle iron can be polished to a mirror finish. It'll be somewhat fun to do the same to the 3" pieces.

[CrystalPistol]

Not that it helps you with clearcoating, but are you repairing to put the trunk rack back on … or … just removing all evidence of a trunk rack?

Glad you asked as I have considered both options. With all that I have bit off fixing the cracks and repainting, I will probably reinstall it to "to cover up the ugly". I like your idea of the 3" aluminum pieces I believe I will do the same. In all of my messing around with various do-dads on the bike earlier in the summer, I was pleasantly surprised to find, with enough effort, common off the shelf aluminum angle iron can be polished to a mirror finish. It'll be somewhat fun to do the same to the 3" pieces.

I cut them out with an adjustable circle cutter, then drill center hole to 1/4", use two nuts and piece of threaded rod as a spindle, chuck it in a drill press, turn on and apply polish, etc. Once polished well, they stay shiny. No coatings cover my aluminum.

[Corkster52]

one of first things I did was make bigger washers from 1/8 aluminum, just over 3" OD for the rear legs, and cut same size washers from thin rubber for under them, to replace star washers previous owner had used.

What did you do on the front legs?

[Corkster52]

Along with my trunk lid issue, I've had an orange-peeled area on the top and partway down the side of my right saddlebag. Figured what the heck, while I have all of the wet-sanding stuff handly I'll address it too. I started out with 600 grit until the orange-peeled portion was barely visible and then changed to 2000 grit. After finishing that part I was thinking "Damn, I hope I can get the gloss back!" Happy to say it worked!

2000 grit sanded

Polished after sanding

[Corkster52]

One thing you may want to look into is something called re-coat sealer. Often there is a time window where the clear is meat to be applied to the base coat and if you are outside that window, the clear can lift the base paint. Same is true for using a different formula of clear. The best example is trying to spray clear acrylic lacquer over a base coat of acrylic enamel. Instant wrinkle finish. Re-coat sealer will keep all those bad things from happening.

I will definitely look into this.

The other problem that I have encountered is, most likely due to my own inexperience, I cannot get the color coat (put on after the base coat) up to the right level so that one or more clear coats will make it all flush. Is there a trick to doing so?

[Corkster52]

One thing you may want to look into is something called re-coat sealer. Often there is a time window where the clear is meat to be applied to the base coat and if you are outside that window, the clear can lift the base paint. Same is true for using a different formula of clear. The best example is trying to spray clear acrylic lacquer over a base coat of acrylic enamel. Instant wrinkle finish. Re-coat sealer will keep all those bad things from happening.

I searched for a while and couldn't find exactly what you were describing. Do you happen to have a name brand, or a link?

[AZgl1800]

would one of the ceramic paint sealers help?
you have to Clay Bar the finish to be sure all debris is gone first.

https://www.carpro-us.com/protection/cq ... -w-reload/

[Corkster52]

I am to the point, after countless hours on this project, that however nice it does or not look is going to be AS GOOD AS IT GETS! I put the base coat of silver paint on yesterday and am waiting for it to dry. It has a few bumps in it and I'm wondering if I dare try to wet-sand them off? Feedback?

On the sealing of the basecoat mentioned in this thread, I wonder if putting as thin of a coat as I can apply of the sealcoat that I bought to be on top of the final red coat would suffice? Thoughts?

I will be putting 2" stainless fender washers, along with 1/8" viton washers, on both the top of and bottom.

[Corkster52]

I know this thread has drug on and on for quite a while, but I continue to try and get this darned thing right. I tried countless ways to get a decent coat of either the base coat (which is also the primer) and final red coat into these 2 areas with about 10 different hand brushes with varying levels of disappointing results. Finally said F*#K it and ordered spray cans of base, color and clear coat from ColoRite. Now that I have spent more on paint, sand paper and tools, than I could find an entire decent looking trunk lid on Ebay, I have to give the spray paint a try. Masking around both of the unusually shaped areas will be a time-consuming process, so if anyone has any tips on how doing so will probably take me a long time would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[CrystalPistol]

one of first things I did was make bigger washers from 1/8 aluminum, just over 3" OD for the rear legs, and cut same size washers from thin rubber for under them, to replace star washers previous owner had used.

What did you do on the front legs?

Smaller washers … as the front legs carry minimal weight near the front wall where the surface is stiffer.

Masking is likely to leave a line, to make it look right, will need to be blended in. Looking at this, I know why I'm not a body fender man. I never tried to "fix" such cracks, just stopped them and added support. Inside the '85's trunk, I used fiberglass with cloth before drilling and adding larger (1-1/2" OD) washers. On the red trike, I just went straight to larger (3-1/8" OD) washers as I said.

Good luck ….

[pocketchange]

If you decided to tape off (and paint), when putting on the tape, use a wider than whatever tape and peal back (roll) the tape off the painted area.. this way the fresh paint will not be laid down with a noticeable line.
Use a number of light passes and ONLY enough base coat to get the color needed. After everything dry's, lightly 2000 and light pass's of clear. Use the clear mentioned earlier (their spray nozzle is excellent.)
Do NOT apply anything unless the weather is correct.
Have fun.. pc

[Corkster52]

when putting on the tape, use a wider than whatever tape and peal back (roll) the tape off the painted area.. this way the fresh paint will not be laid down with a noticeable line.

lightly 2000 and light pass's of clear.

Sorry, but I am not understanding exactly what you are saying in these sentences.

I finally removed the trunk lid and took it down to the basement, so the temperature should not be a problem

[pocketchange]

Lay one side of the tape on your preped surface and you end-up with the tape not giving you a line where the paint
typically would go.. leaving a line.
If this makes no sense, youtube will have the info you are needing. (spotting-in paint methods.)
BTW, try not to fret if your efforts don't pan out with your first few attempts.
Blending painted surfaces is not a walk in the park.. try to take your time and DO NOT expect profection.

[julimike54]

What he's referring to.....



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!