Wiring ? for Driving Lights

[Fewman]

Can I use the stock light switch (hi beam circuit) to trigger a relay to turn on/off driving lights? (ON with hi beam/OFF with low beam). I'm under the impression that this should work as the trigger side of the relay uses very low current draw (inherent function of the relay). The driving lights themselves would be fused and powered at the battery (thru the relay). Would the reserve lighting circuit ('75 GL) 'like' this arrangement and still work? I would prefer to have the aux lighting controlled at the handgrip and not thru a toggle switch located in left field, keeping the stock look.

Anyone trigger a relay like this?

[N2PPN]

Yes.
I have two 55w Quarts driving lights on my GW. I did exactly that, I used an automotive relay which is triggered by the stock high beam switch on the left handlebar. I ran all the wiring (including a 20 Amp separate fused circuit to feed the driving lights) inside the shelter. I used ty-raps to fasten the relay onto the left side where the flasher and other electronics are located. And I got the "trigger" lead for the relay from the headlight harness inside the fairing going up to the headlight. StaCon connectors , black electrical tape (preferrably 3M Scotch Super 33+), heat shrink tubing, Ty-raps and a fine single malt will make the job go real easy...

Just remember to run a new separate ground for the new lights &relay, and a properly sized fused positive circuit to the relay for the lights.

Just note that even with all the load shedding I had done with my GW (switched out almost all incandescent lamps to LED), the driving lights if left on for too long won't be kept up with by the charging system, and will drain the battery and make a ride at night less than satisfactory.... I use the driving lights for the twisties and mountain roads in the pitch black of night or to alert a errant passenger car driver of my presence.

When I do the HID headlight upgrade, there may be a little more charging current left over to use the driving lights instead of a high beam from the headlight as the HID upgrade will only be a single element lamp.

Enjoy!

Rich

[Fewman]

Thanks Rich.

I hear you on the total circuit load thing with the older GL's.

The lamps I ordered come with H4 55/55w bulbs. I will also order a set of H4 35/35W bulbs and experiment...
I wasn't aware of the seperate (-) reqmt but I did run a ground tap at the second fuse block.

[WingAdmin]

My 1100 could not keep up with a pair of 55 watt driving lights, but it has absolutely no trouble running a pair of 35 watt driving lights. With switching out the remaining lights to LEDs (particularly the brake lights) I have lots of power left over.

[bobalooby1]

Yes.
I have two 55w Quarts driving lights on my GW. I did exactly that, I used an automotive relay which is triggered by the stock high beam switch on the left handlebar. I ran all the wiring (including a 20 Amp separate fused circuit to feed the driving lights) inside the shelter. I used ty-raps to fasten the relay onto the left side where the flasher and other electronics are located. And I got the "trigger" lead for the relay from the headlight harness inside the fairing going up to the headlight. StaCon connectors , black electrical tape (preferrably 3M Scotch Super 33+), heat shrink tubing, Ty-raps and a fine single malt will make the job go real easy...

Just remember to run a new separate ground for the new lights &relay, and a properly sized fused positive circuit to the relay for the lights.

Just note that even with all the load shedding I had done with my GW (switched out almost all incandescent lamps to LED), the driving lights if left on for too long won't be kept up with by the charging system, and will drain the battery and make a ride at night less than satisfactory.... I use the driving lights for the twisties and mountain roads in the pitch black of night or to alert a errant passenger car driver of my presence.

When I do the HID headlight upgrade, there may be a little more charging current left over to use the driving lights instead of a high beam from the headlight as the HID upgrade will only be a single element lamp.

Enjoy!

Rich

DITCH the 55W lamps and replace with 35W lamps... you'll have plenty of reserve power.

[N2PPN]

Hmmm,

Maybe 35 Watt HID's????

Now you really got me thinking..... I could guide aircraft onto the runway with all that light output..... can you say LUMENS??


Rich

<grin>

[N2PPN]

For the immediate future I just ordered 35W H3 halogen bulbs for my Signal-Stat driving lights mounted on the bike...I didn't realize they had H3 bulbs in them.... This will shed 40 watts off my load on the alternator with the high beam on.

I am also still researching "long lead" H3 HID lamps (so I can put the ballasts inside the fairing) for the driving lights so I can do the HID upgrade.... This way I will also be able to determine if the HID ballasts will interfere with the radio/sound system. If they do, I can live with the noise while the driving lights are on (which won't be often, unless I am in the mountains or outside the city)and deal with the filtering aspect at my leisure, rather than if I had done the headlight and was now stuck having to engineer a solution to noisy ballasts...

It's all so exciting!!!!



Rich <grin>

[bobalooby1]

Fewmen..... Check out Eastern Beaver.com.. I think you'll like what you find there. Quality pre-made harnesses for wiring of aux. lighting.

[Fewman]

I'm not too worried about the harnesses. I build my own. I have a seperate fuse block in place where the old regulator was already 'hot' wired direct to the battery with 10ga wire. The relays are mounted about 8 inches from the fuse block. I just needed confirmation on the triggering source.

Thanks for the tip. I have used EB before without complaint. I model the harness from EB...

[bobalooby1]

I'm not too worried about the harnesses. I build my own. I have a seperate fuse block in place where the old regulator was already 'hot' wired direct to the battery with 10ga wire. The relays are mounted about 8 inches from the fuse block. I just needed confirmation on the triggering source.

Thanks for the tip. I have used EB before without complaint. I model the harness from EB...

Now that you know, Gitter' Done!..... Ive heard nothing but good things about EB myself. I'm not adept at making my own harnesses. But fair when it comes to "Copy Cat" wiring.