I'm installing a gl1100 ignition on 76 gl1000

[Dmerc]

I need to know if I just need the two igniters or do I need the spark control unit also. Before you say it can't be done, see the attached pic. I made an adapter plate to move the pulser vacuum advance unit to the left head of my 76.

[Dmerc]

Ok, after staring at the schematic, it it looks like the control unit is for the gages. So it looks like I just need to get two igniters and wire them in. No sweat. I wonder if the coils are the same on the 1100 as the 1000. Any one know?

[froche]

Coils are coils... so to speak.

The coils you have will work even if they aren't the same as 1100 coils. The difference is not that great and is usually the resistance used. The 1000 coils have a resistor on them with the two coils.

On my 1200 I replaced the coils with a Dodge Neon coil, you could do the same. I bought the cheapest one I could find either on ebay or on Rockauto.com. Didn't match or try to match the resistance values, works great!

Was able to open the gap from 0.035 to 0.045, thinking about going to 0.050 or 0.055, Starts easy idles better than it did!

[Dmerc]

Thanks for the reply, good info on the Dodge neon coil. I'll check in to it. Was it hard to figure out the wiring of the coil? Did you use a Dodge factory pigtail to hook up?

[froche]

I was able to purchase a new one somewhere... found it using google.
Rockauto.com has one for about 7.00 Part number WVE 1P1080

As far as electrically the Neon coil is a 4 cylinder coil used on a car. It has two spark wires on each coil, and uses a wasted spark just like Goldwings. Its a simple fit, I used a piece of sheet metal and made an adapter, basically holes where the old brackets were held on to the biker, and more holes where the coil needed them.



Some reading;
viewtopic.php?t=11085 Pictures of a neon coil with numbers on foe GW
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=52841 Entitled ' A Dummies Guide to Neon Coils"

I did this change out on my 1985 Gl1200A.
Before the change out the bike started OK using the enrichener, and ran fine.
After the change out the bike started without the enrichener.
I did increase the plug gap to .40, was thinking about trying .45.
The old plugs were absolute fine as far as color, they could have been used to show perfect combustion!
One interesting note 1 plug was incorrectly gapped (or narrowed through use), cylinder 4 (right hand rear) was nearly .10 from suggested .35, and a little off on color.

Year ago I had a Ford 351 with Kettering ignition system in a Ford LTD, got about 12 miles to the gallon.

I put in:
Capacitance ignition (boosted the coil)
Electronic Conversion for the Points etc
Used metallic wires for Spark
Increased the gap by .10 until .70 still ran good

Mileage on the freeway went up to nearly 20 and around town around 16.

The whole point of this is to explain that when your voltage goes up you can;
Either leave stock gap and still work well in less than ideal conditions (oil in the combustion chamber, poor compression, non optimized gas mixture. leaner gas mixture)
Increase the gap, making the spark bigger and perhaps a tiny bit longer, and start the combustion better.

Interestingly there is a claim that manufacturers plug gaps are a bit conservative. After all they have to warranty their engines and cannot count on most people to keep them in a proper state of tune. Now with the introduction of Coil over plug, sensors replacing distributors and computers running the show they have been able to get closer to the exact gap for that engine. However for Kettering ignition system, and early non computer ones the over all claim is that you can increase the gap by .10 over stock.

[froche]

Simple
You need new wires for Spark plugs, i believe that 7mm is the correct size, And since the stock spark plug boots are resistive, you need metallic or non resistive wire, generally labeled copper core or metallic.
The old boots from the spark plug ends work fine, assuming they measure correct. They just twist off the old and on the new, and I believe that they are righty tighty, lefty loosely.
The Coil ends require new ends, 4 each of rubber boots and coil terminals.

The coil boots are not plug boots, and the brass looking thing is the terminal for the coil.

[Dmerc]

Thanks much for the part number and diagram! This will help a lot when I get ready to install the ignition. I too have fooled around with aftermarket ignitions and have had good luck squeezing more mileage out of my machines. For example I built a R50/5 BMW up to 800CC and regularly delivers 65mpg. There were several engine mods to increase port velocities also. Tons of low end and midrange torque and great gas mileage. This all with a Lucas RITA ignition. Not too shabby! Checked against GPS for accuracy too.