Mountable USB Ports Looked and Looked Now I need Help

[patbrandon1]

Not all USB ports are created equal.

I have a dual USB port mounted on my 87 Wing. One of the ports is a 1a and the other one is 2.1a

I have heated gloves and heated grips that require 15w each. So I need both ports that are at least 3a.

I have looked and looked on here and all over the internet and am just having a hard time finding an USB port that mounts to my handlebars that is 3a out of one port or 3a out of each of two ports. Not sure if they don't make them because they would overheat, but I just can't find any.

If anyone could point me in a direction where I might find either a dual or single port that each port would supply 3a I would be very grateful.

Thanks for your time.

[WingAdmin]

Not all USB ports are created equal.

I have a dual USB port mounted on my 87 Wing. One of the ports is a 1a and the other one is 2.1a
USB Port Motorcycle.JPG

I have heated gloves and heated grips that require 15w each. So I need both ports that are at least 3a.

I have looked and looked on here and all over the internet and am just having a hard time finding an USB port that mounts to my handlebars that is 3a out of one port or 3a out of each of two ports. Not sure if they don't make them because they would overheat, but I just can't find any.

If anyone could point me in a direction where I might find either a dual or single port that each port would supply 3a I would be very grateful.

Thanks for your time.

That's because the standard for a USB-A connector (like you have there) is 1.5 amps, there are some manufacturers that have 2 amp chargers, and some odd, proprietary ones that might go a bit higher.

The limitation is the size of the wires - higher amperage requires thicker wire. So for higher wattage chargers, they switch to higher voltages. USB chargers like QuickCharge and PD handshake with the device plugged into them, and if they agree that they both have the same capabilities, they will bump up the voltage to 9 or 12 volts. So at 12 volts, with a 1.5 amp current, it's supplying 18 watts of power.

In the case of your heated grips and gloves however, I highly doubt either of them is expecting the 5 volts provided by your USB ports. Every set of heated grips and gloves I've ever seen expect 12 volts, direct from the bike, not from a USB port. Not saying they don't exist, but trying to run a heater from a 5 volt USB port is going to end in disappointment, it just doesn't have the current capability to provide enough overall power to make a real difference.

For instance - most heated grips use about 30 watts of power at 12 volts per pair, and my heated gloves use 28 watts for the pair, also at 12 volts.

[AZgl1800]

Scott omitted one thing that he insinuated about, he just did say it in Layman's Terms.

5 volts, cannot push enough current through a resistance ( the 12 Volt heated seat ) to cause it get even mildly "warm".

I doubt seriously that you would ever feel the heat from a 5 volt source.

His comments on the wire gauge size is totally accurate.

[kwthom]

<...>I have heated gloves and heated grips that require 15w each. So I need both ports that are at least 3a.<...>

Wait - are you telling us you have heated gloves that have a USB connector on them? Most powersports-designed heated gear will run off of +12V. There are others that run on something like +7V, but those typically go to a small battery-pack you carry on your person (think watching a football game in the cold, where you have no access to power).

Heated items (like grips and gloves) typically will also need to be connected to a "controller" - a current regulation device - and the controller is then wired in some way to the bike +12V. The easiest "controller" is a simple on-off switch.

So, there's two unique problems you're looking for a solution to. As noted, the USB port cannot solve either of them.

Make & model of what you're trying to interface to your bike might also help us understand a bit more about your situation.

[WingAdmin]

Scott omitted one thing that he insinuated about, he just did say it in Layman's Terms.

5 volts, cannot push enough current through a resistance ( the 12 Volt heated seat ) to cause it get even mildly "warm".

I doubt seriously that you would ever feel the heat from a 5 volt source.

His comments on the wire gauge size is totally accurate.

Close. Current is never "pushed" - only "pulled." the amount of current drawn is dependent on the resistance of the item drawing the current, up to the capability of the circuit to provide current. The lower the resistance, the higher the current drawn. A dead short provides almost no resistance, so the current is extremely high, until a current limiting device (fuse) blows to protect the circuit.

When it comes to amount of heat, it's all about POWER, which is measured in watts. To get watts, just multiple volts x amps. So 5 volts x 10 amps would give you 50 watts. So would 12 volts x 4.1 amps.

So technically you could have 30 watt gloves working at 5 volts, but it would be drawing 6 amps, which would mean very large wires.

A perfect example of this is welding: you have an arc welder providing maybe 20 volts, but at an immense 600 amps, which is why welders have those huge, thick cables.

On the other hand, you could push a million volts through a wire the thickness of a hair, but only at an extremely low current.

[DenverWinger]

On the other hand, you could push a million volts through a wire the thickness of a hair, but only at an extremely low current.

Wire the thickness of a hair could easily stand 10mA current, but that would still be 10,000 watts!

[patbrandon1]

Wait - are you telling us you have heated gloves that have a USB connector on them? Most powersports-designed heated gear will run off of +12V. There are others that run on something like +7V, but those typically go to a small battery-pack you carry on your person (think watching a football game in the cold, where you have no access to power).

Heated items (like grips and gloves) typically will also need to be connected to a "controller" - a current regulation device - and the controller is then wired in some way to the bike +12V. The easiest "controller" is a simple on-off switch.

So, there's two unique problems you're looking for a solution to. As noted, the USB port cannot solve either of them.

Make & model of what you're trying to interface to your bike might also help us understand a bit more about your situation. Yaisse.gif

Yes. Both are USB connected. Here are the gloves

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223746147767

Yeah they are cheap ones but worked for the time I needed them.

Here are the heated grip covers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2 ... UTF8&psc=1

It wasn't until I contacted the seller of the grip covers to explain that when I would put the controller on medium and low, it would shut off. They would stay on when I had it set on high. (That seems strange to me but that's what happens. I bought another set and they both do the same thing.) They explained that in order to work correctly they need 15W.

The seller for the gloves also said 15W is needed for the gloves.

Sooo for the USB to provide 15W it needs to be a 3A output because the the USB box that the ports are in steps voltage down to 5V, (this is the case for all that I've looked at) and 5V X 3A = 15W, which would be enough.

It just surprises me that I can't find an USB port that has a 3A output.

I have now put the Wing up for the Winter. Last day I road was December 23. Temp was 28 degrees and heated grips did help a bit. It has snowed and salt went down the next day so away went the ride. I have a couple of months to do PM and get the wiring right for heated items. But I do expect to ride in the early Spring when temps are low and heated stuff is helpful.

What would any of you suggest I do to solve this? All I need is a USB port with 3A output.

I really appreciate all the time everyone took to help me out. This is a rockin' site!

[M61A1MECH]

I am also amazed that they would work using a USB connection, for all the reason stated above.
Have you contacted the seller for recommendations for obtaining a suitable power source with a USB connection?

Quick edit:
I did a quick Google search and did find this, https://cellet.com/collections/type-c-c ... ts/pusbc32, I am still skeptical, their information does not say if it is 3 amps total or 3 amps per outlet.

[WingAdmin]

On the other hand, you could push a million volts through a wire the thickness of a hair, but only at an extremely low current.

Wire the thickness of a hair could easily stand 10mA current, but that would still be 10,000 watts!

Correct.

That's why high-tension power transmission lines carry 350,000 volts - to allow the transfer of large amounts of power without requiring massive, thick wires.

Also, you lose some voltage from resistance over distance. Losing say 50 volts over a given distance is only a 0.01% voltage drop. On a 10,000 volt line, that same 50 volt drop is 0.5%, which is 50 times more power loss. So the higher the voltage, the less impact from voltage drop over distance.

[Rambozo]

3 Amps is somewhat pushing the limits of the USB A connector. What I would do is cut off the USB plugs and install barrel plugs. Wire up a DC to DC buck converter that has enough capacity to run all your heated gear. Then place barrel jacks where ever convenient to attach your gear. You could also add temp controls if desired.

[patbrandon1]

I am also amazed that they would work using a USB connection, for all the reason stated above.
Have you contacted the seller for recommendations for obtaining a suitable power source with a USB connection?

Quick edit:
I did a quick Google search and did find this, https://cellet.com/collections/type-c-c ... ts/pusbc32, I am still skeptical, their information does not say if it is 3 amps total or 3 amps per outlet.

I looked at it and as you stated, it isn't clear if it is 3 Amp total or 3 Amp out of each. I sent them an email and asked. There is a phone number that I can call on Monday if I don't get an answer on email.

Thanks for taking the time to look for a solution. I am going to get this solved by this Spring. It's just one of those little things that I don't like kicking my butt.

[patbrandon1]

3 Amps is somewhat pushing the limits of the USB A connector. What I would do is cut off the USB plugs and install barrel plugs. Wire up a DC to DC buck converter that has enough capacity to run all your heated gear. Then place barrel jacks where ever convenient to attach your gear. You could also add temp controls if desired.

That's a great idea and I will most likely do something with it during the down time of the riding season. Found one on Amazon for just 14 bucks. Gives a bunch of possible scenarios. I have done an alternator conversion kit on my Wing (Yup, the stator went bad) and with this buck convertor I could power the world!

I did find a 3 Amp single port USB that I can mount to the handlebars.
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0609 ... E54LI&th=1#

[kwthom]

3 Amps is somewhat pushing the limits of the USB A connector. What I would do is cut off the USB plugs and install barrel plugs. Wire up a DC to DC buck converter that has enough capacity to run all your heated gear. Then place barrel jacks where ever convenient to attach your gear. You could also add temp controls if desired.

Clarifying your first sentence...3 Amps at 5Vdc *is* pretty tough for a standard USB A connector.

So, I'm going to guess that those items the OP showed are actually designed to be used with those small power-pack devices that's commonly used for recharging your cell phone (or your wireless earpieces...) while you're not near a wall charger.

[kwthom]

Didn't have time to complete the post yesterday...priorities...

Something like one of these seems to be more appropriate for those accessories the OP posted:



Now....just a thought, but *why* would a person use both heated gloves along with heated grips? Surely, I recognize there is someone out there that has some neuro difficulties with their hands that might need a little extra warmth. Just two months ago, I was on the bike with a 'motorcross-style' glove, the OE heated grips, and was 'okay' in 25°F/-4°C temperatures for the first couple of hours, until things started to warm up.

*My* problem was I didn't feel like stopping, and pulling out my winter riding gloves from the trunk.

Hope you get things sorted out!

[patbrandon1]

Didn't have time to complete the post yesterday...priorities...

Something like one of these seems to be more appropriate for those accessories the OP posted:



Now....just a thought, but *why* would a person use both heated gloves along with heated grips? Surely, I recognize there is someone out there that has some neuro difficulties with their hands that might need a little extra warmth. Just two months ago, I was on the bike with a 'motorcross-style' glove, the OE heated grips, and was 'okay' in 25°F/-4°C temperatures for the first couple of hours, until things started to warm up.

*My* problem was I didn't feel like stopping, and pulling out my winter riding gloves from the trunk.

Hope you get things sorted out!

I didn't explain all about using heated gloves first, and THEN heated heated grips. I tried the gloves, worked okay, but without the full 15 watts (I had them plugged into my USB port that was 2.1 amp 10ish watts), they didn't get warm enough and I didn't like being wired to the port. So I thought I would try the removable heated grips. (I can remove the during most of the riding season) I like them better than heated gloves. With my regular gloves the grips worked fine. The only problem with the grips is that unless they have 15W the controller that has 3 settings, low, med, and high, only works on high. I know that sounds strange but that is the case.

I did find and ordered a handlebar mountable 3A USB for the bike. It arrived today and before Spring, or my next ride, I will have it installed and all will be well. (I posted a link in an above post).

My brother has heated gloves that have a battery pack that slips into the gloves. He didn't like them. The battery was bulky feeling, and it only lasted about a half hour before they would power to heat the gloves.

The type of battery packs that you showed could be a solution for something that only needs 10w, but I need 15. I have searched for those packs with a 3a output and have never found one. I think it would be dangerous or some other reason they don't make them. Overheating, the life cycle would be low because of the nature of the thing, and so on. Plus it would still require to be confined to being wired up to something unless I duct tapped them to my arms

I do appreciate all the time you took to help me out.

[bri720a]

I have these on my Goldwing. They are 18w each USB port. Although they are not handlebar mounted, they might work for you, IF they will put out the full 18w without being a Quick Charge device connected. I am not sure of the electronics on the inside and what it needs to "see" in order to push the full wattage. Might work for you and if not they offer free returns.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LK ... UTF8&psc=1

[tamathumper]

Seems like a lot of work, and probably in the end will be just as much money as getting regular equipment.

[patbrandon1]

I am also amazed that they would work using a USB connection, for all the reason stated above.
Have you contacted the seller for recommendations for obtaining a suitable power source with a USB connection?

Quick edit:
I did a quick Google search and did find this, https://cellet.com/collections/type-c-c ... ts/pusbc32, I am still skeptical, their information does not say if it is 3 amps total or 3 amps per outlet.

I contacted the seller of the item in the link you provided. Here is their reply...

"For this charger the 3 amp will be split in half when both the Type c cable and USB port is being used at the same time.
If only one charging port is being used it will charge at 3 amp."

Interesting that it splits in half when using both at the same time, and has 3A when just using one port.

It would work for me, but I have found a single 5V 3A USB that can be mounted to my handlebars which would be better for my need. Thanks again for your time.

[patbrandon1]

Seems like a lot of work, and probably in the end will be just as much money as getting regular equipment.

Already done. I mounted this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYE54LI/?tag=goldwingdocs-20 ... ingdocs-20
and it works for what I need. Twelve bucks and about a half hour install. (I wired them to an existing ACC connection that was already there for the 2.1A/1A port) The biggest challenge was finding one with a 5V 3A output that would mount to the bars.

Maybe from this post other people can get some info that can help in any need for a higher voltage USB port.

[patbrandon1]

Seems like a lot of work, and probably in the end will be just as much money as getting regular equipment.

Already done. I mounted this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYE54LI/?tag=goldwingdocs-20 ... ingdocs-20
and it works for what I need. Twelve bucks and about a half hour install. (I wired them to an existing ACC connection that was already there for the 2.1A/1A port) The biggest challenge was finding one with a 5V 3A output that would mount to the bars.

Maybe from this post other people can get some info that can help in any need for a higher wattage output USB port.

[kwthom]

<...>The only problem with the grips is that unless they have 15W the controller that has 3 settings, low, med, and high, only works on high. I know that sounds strange but that is the case.<...>

Your controller is a resistive device. On high, it's 'wide open', and will let the gloves take the full amount of current they want. Lower settings are adding resistance to the circuit, which decreases the current going to the glove (or grip) element.

Elementary electronics.

<...>The type of battery packs that you showed could be a solution for something that only needs 10w, but I need 15. I have searched for those packs with a 3a output and have never found one.<...>

So...lemme give you a suggestion.

That item you want to mount to your motorcycle...maybe you should do a bit of an experiment *before* you take the effort to actually implement that on your bike.

Figure out a way of temporarily attaching it to your automotive battery, then see just how warm the grip covers (or the gloves) get to actually verify that it'll put out that full 3A. An ammeter would physically measure what the current output is.

There's a LOT of deceit in the advertising of electronic components like that. 3 amps (or 15 watts) out of a USB connector is possible, it's just rather rare -unless- it has some smart charging functionality that is more than the simple USB charging specification.

Finally, what I have on my bike are these buck module DC converters. My cell phone is powered by one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/DGZZI-Converter- ... 68&sr=8-21

Again, luck to ya.

[LittleGoldy]

On the other hand, you could push a million volts through a wire the thickness of a hair, but only at an extremely low current.

Wire the thickness of a hair could easily stand 10mA current, but that would still be 10,000 watts!

Not Quite there tuff guy. 10mA is milliAMPS or .01 A NOT 10,000 A. It may be beneficial to understand the physics of electricity before commenting, or at the Very least be RIGHT !!

[DenverWinger]

On the other hand, you could push a million volts through a wire the thickness of a hair, but only at an extremely low current.

Wire the thickness of a hair could easily stand 10mA current, but that would still be 10,000 watts!

Not Quite there tuff guy. 10mA is milliAMPS or .01 A NOT 10,000 A. It may be beneficial to understand the physics of electricity before commenting, or at the Very least be RIGHT !!

I didn't say 10,000 Amps, I said 10,000 Watts. 1,000,000 volts x 0.01 amp = 10,000 watts.

[LittleGoldy]

UH yea, I misread it. :facepalm:
10,000 Watts would require a #6 wire and would instantly melt a hair strand wire under that full load. Just sayin.

[DenverWinger]

Can you imagine the corona discharge around that hair-thick wire with a million volts?