oil filter replacement

[mrmikey]

Hi all,
Just bought, (heck, haven't even got it home yet ), a 2000 GL1500 SE and I'm looking to do some maintenance. I noticed in the oil change article (well written btw) a reference to an 'adaptor' that allows you to use a conventional oil filter where can this be bought? I did a search but no luck,. I've never had much luck with the cannister type filters, call me paranoid but I don't like 'em.
Another thing, i'm used to other machine's where the oil/transmission were one and lubed by the same oil, sorta thew me for a loop when there was no reference made to a wet clutch type engine oil. My last bike was an '04 1500 Kawi Vulcan Classic. Next question, what about trans service, ie changing the trans oil, any caveats or recommendations?
While I'm bugging for info, I'll gratefully accept any you're willing to offer......Mike

[vtxcandyred]

Hi all,
Just bought, (heck, haven't even got it home yet ), a 2000 GL1500 SE and I'm looking to do some maintenance. I noticed in the oil change article (well written btw) a reference to an 'adaptor' that allows you to use a conventional oil filter where can this be bought? I did a search but no luck,. I've never had much luck with the cannister type filters, call me paranoid but I don't like 'em.
Another thing, i'm used to other machine's where the oil/transmission were one and lubed by the same oil, sorta thew me for a loop when there was no reference made to a wet clutch type engine oil. My last bike was an '04 1500 Kawi Vulcan Classic. Next question, what about trans service, ie changing the trans oil, any caveats or recommendations?
While I'm bugging for info, I'll gratefully accept any you're willing to offer......Mike

What you are referring to is the older style of filter. You don't have that kind. You have a small spin on filter. I don't have all the cross referenced numbers for everything but someone will stop in and post them.

[mrmikey]

What you are referring to is the older style of filter. You don't have that kind. You have a small spin on filter. I don't have all the cross referenced numbers for everything but someone will stop in and post them.

Perfect, I thought the cannister style was old school, I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row before I pick 'er up tomorrow. It's been sitting for a bit over a year as the po had a heart attack and it's being sold by the gentlemans wife and brother neither of which knows what maintenance has been done. I'd rather change what I can and be sure. Cross references would be good. Thanks for the reply......Mike

[MikeB]

Give some thought to buying a service manual. It's a good investment.

[mrmikey]

Give some thought to buying a service manual. It's a good investment.

Hi Mike,
Without a doubt, I get a manual for everything I buy car, truck, bike etc. It's saved me more grief that I can even begin to imagine. I've already downloded anything pertaining to mine from this site. Where's a good place to get a manual, I'd rather go for an actual Honda if the price isn't too bad, I've found Clymer or Haynes although better than noting aren't as good as the oe ones.....Mike

[MikeB]

List of Oil Filters for the GL1500:
AC Delco PF2135
AMSOil SMF103
Carquest 85358
FRAM PH6017A
Honda 15410-MCJ-000
K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal.
NAPA Gold 1358
Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator.
STP SMO 17
WIX 51358

About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. Made by Champion.


From the Honda Service Manual for the GL1500

[dingdong]

Your bike also has a wet clutch. The same oil lubes the engine and the transmission. There is no servicing the transmission separately. The type of oil you use is up to you. No need to buy a special motorcycle oil. Use an oil that has no friction modifiers as that will cause the clutch to slip. Most automotive oils will work well. Some use regular oil and some use synthetic. Your choice.

[WingAdmin]

Hi Mike,
Without a doubt, I get a manual for everything I buy car, truck, bike etc. It's saved me more grief that I can even begin to imagine. I've already downloded anything pertaining to mine from this site. Where's a good place to get a manual, I'd rather go for an actual Honda if the price isn't too bad, I've found Clymer or Haynes although better than noting aren't as good as the oe ones.....Mike

Click "Manuals" at the top left hand side of this site.

[mrmikey]

Thanks for the numbers Mike, much appreciated

Use an oil that has no friction modifiers as that will cause the clutch to slip. Most automotive oils will work well

D.D.,
That's what I'm familiar with for a wet clutch, no friction modifiers. Odd it doesn't say anything about a 'motorcycle' specific oil in the manual as that would have tipped me off.
For the oils I've been using on my 1500 Kawi I make sure it doesn't have the 'enegy conserving' notation on the label which supposidly means no f.m. as opposed to the 'energy conserving' ones which do.....Mike

[furnacedoc]

Welcome to the Goldwing Group, You will love your wing,it is like riding on a cloud. you may want to consider replacing your timing belts also. You will find alot of help here on this sitw. this is a great bunch of owner, riders that are more than willing to give help and advice. See ya on the road

[mrmikey]

Well, I ended up not getting it, actually getting it and then taking it back. I never took it for a ride the night I said I wanted it. I was thinking if it was my bike I wouldn't want somebody I didn't know riding it, besides, with only 38K what can be wrong. So I went back the next day with a certified cheque and took it home, went to pull in the driveway and Holy Crap, no rear brakes, pedal went right down. I took it back to the lady and got my cheque back.
She asked me if i'd be willing to take it to the dealer and get it fixed and she'd pay....nahhhh, I'd rather not. She just called me today and it was what I suspected, the master cylinder.According to the local dealer $285 for the cylinder and 4-5 hours labor, prolly close to $700 by the time it's all said and done. Let that be a warning to ya'll, change the fluid, it's cheap to change, 10 bucks for a can of fluid, a lot cheaper than parts.
I noticed the fluid was dark (sign of water) so that was going to be my next maintenance after the oil. I told her I'd still take it but now come to find out the cylinder is bo'd for at least two weeks so I guess I'm on the hunt again.....Mike