OK.. why not ATF vs Fork Oil?

[Colts]

Hello,

Probably one of those belabored topics, and I've seen arguments on both sides.

Specific "Fork Oil" vs. "ATF".. Why if I use a good quality, full synthetic ATF (20 wt) is it wrong?

When I look at some postings about Fork oil, rebuilds, etc.. I see some that are VERY specific in that ATF is Bad.. but a lot of manuals, Haynes, and Clymer for instance state that ATF is just fine.

I'd really like to get some feedback. I don't mind spending the money on specific Fork Oil if it's warranted.. but spending two-three times as much for the same stuff, seems silly.

I appreciate it!

~Colts

[WingAdmin]

Hello,

Probably one of those belabored topics, and I've seen arguments on both sides.

Specific "Fork Oil" vs. "ATF".. Why if I use a good quality, full synthetic ATF (20 wt) is it wrong?

When I look at some postings about Fork oil, rebuilds, etc.. I see some that are VERY specific in that ATF is Bad.. but a lot of manuals, Haynes, and Clymer for instance state that ATF is just fine.

I'd really like to get some feedback. I don't mind spending the money on specific Fork Oil if it's warranted.. but spending two-three times as much for the same stuff, seems silly.

I appreciate it!

~Colts

Most ATF is 10W, not 20W. 10W is about the thinnest you want in your forks, 20W is far too thick and will give you a ride like your forks are full of concrete (particularly if it's cold).

If you're happy with 10W fork oil, then ATF is an acceptable (and cheaper) substitute. If you want something like 15W (tried that in my 1500, it was too thick), you need to go with fork oil.

[Bike...and Dennis]

Seems like I read somewhere that ATF is actually 7.5 weight. Never really thought about it much, it's what Honda says to use in the manuals. Isn't it?

[Rambozo]

There are currently at least 8 different types of ATF with varying viscosities, and additive packages.
None of which are what was sold back when these bikes were new. For me it's just easier to use fork oil.

[Colts]

I did just end up getting some good quality (I believe) fork oil and replaced the ATF that was put in at first.

Just not worth it after the work I'm putting into this bike (new acquisition)... Just do it right the first time.. or 'better than right' I hope, looking at the recommended OEM fluids.

Thanks for the responses everyone!

~Colts

[soujrnr]

How big of a job did you find it to be to change the fork oil? I did it on my Suzuki Boulevard C90T, but this Wing seems like a totally different and much more involved animal.

Thanks.

[GD2]

Whenever I read someone saying "THAT WILL NOT WORK AND YOU WILL BURST INTO FLAMES" (like you see in the darkside threads) then I definitely want to try it.

[Rambozo]

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[offcenter]

Whenever I read someone saying "THAT WILL NOT WORK AND YOU WILL BURST INTO FLAMES" (like you see in the darkside threads) then I definitely want to try it.

[FM-USA]

Now I'm curious. Are all petroleum based ATF's mix compatible?
IF SO, then play viscosity chemist. CC the amounts & custom tailor what you want.

Just info... I rode in -19*F for about 5 hours, after a few miles the fluid warmed & forks were near normal.

.

[GD2]

I just rebuilt one of my forks that was leaking, and refilled both with ATF.

I had already been using ATF in them and had no problems so I used it again.

[Tito8553]

I just got through replacing the rear shocks on my 84 1200 aspencade. I bought original used on ebay and put a new kit in. When I took the ebay showa air shocks apart the rubber bumpers had dissolved into a gooey mess. The PO of the shocks had used fork oil. I found a place in the forums that confirmed this would happen. I replaced the shock fluid with ATF. My front original shocks did not have the rubber bumpers so I used 10W fork oil in the fronts

[Track T 2411]

I just got through replacing the rear shocks on my 84 1200 aspencade. I bought original used on ebay and put a new kit in. When I took the ebay showa air shocks apart the rubber bumpers had dissolved into a gooey mess. The PO of the shocks had used fork oil. I found a place in the forums that confirmed this would happen. I replaced the shock fluid with ATF. My front original shocks did not have the rubber bumpers so I used 10W fork oil in the fronts

I've done three sets of 1100 rear shocks, each with around 50k miles on the clock, and, I'm guessing, the original fluid. Every one of the 'bumpers' was shot, which leads me to believe (or ass-u-me ) the deterioration is more about the bumper material than the fluid type.
FWIW, I replaced the bumpers with slightly modified polyurethane grommets from Energy Suspension...

I've used both ATF and fork oil in the past. I do like the idea that fork oil has a specified viscosity. YMMV!

[Rambozo]

Ideally, they should never be hitting the bumpers. But we all know everyone overloads their Wing. The nice thing about fork oil is you can raise the damping force with a slightly thicker oil if you routinely overload.