Not necessarily new

[cowboybob]

Probably a stupid question but I have to ask it. See lot about amperage on this page.

My question is does anyone check the amperage on the infamous yellow wires while they are connected and the engine running. I see lots of stuff about it should be 48 Amps between the wires but nothing about when they are connected and you can only check what one wire , at a time, is doing.

Thanks for you patience, just wondering.

cu
cowboy bob

[virgilmobile]

"WE" try to avoid messing around the "3 yellow wires when the bike is running.But if you must know..
This info is approximate only.
The wing uses a set of coils that are configured into a 3 phase AC circuit with NO ground to the frame.
Testing is resistance between each pair of wires and then to ground.
It can develop 48 volts AC between any 2 yellow wires.
The combined power from the alternator all total is 300 watt at 5000 rpm , so I suspect that one could clamp measure each alternator wire and read somewhere around 7 amp AC.

I have noted that my gl1100 and gl1200 ,under normal conditions draw 10 amp DC and charge 3 amp DC ,so the total current draw from the REGULATOR is 13 amp.
The alternator is still running max regardless of the demand.The regulator has to drain the un-needed power off to ground.

[cowboybob]

Hi Virgil,

Thanks for the answer. I was hoping that you would reply as seem to be very knowledgeable in this area.

That is exactly what I got for a reading. One other question. My bike will sometimes show 13 to 14 volts shortly after starting and running a while. Then it cuts back to 13 or 12.9 volts. Is this a normal procedure with the regulater? As I have said before, I know just enough to get myself in trouble and don't understand all I know.

I am hoping that I don't have a stator problem. Seem that my readings are about the same as you got when reading the solenoid wires. I use a clamp on ampmeter and I can't be as sure about the readings as I would if it were digital. Have this equipment and hate to by more. Am looking at the one you suggested from Harbor Freight but am going to wait and see if they will put on sale again

Anyway thanks for the info. I feel better about my situation now. By the way I ride an 84 Goglwing Interstate.

cu

bobc

[dingdong]

Howdy Doody, Cowboybob. I doubt that you have a stator problem. The fluctuations in voltage are probably caused by loose and or corroded connectors. Start with the main ground cable "neg. battery" where it connects to the engine and frame. Then proceed to all other connectors. A lot of gremlins can be eliminated by cleaning and tightening all connectors.

[cowboybob]

Hi Dingdong,

I have kind of put the stator issue aside. This morning it is working like it should. Electrical gremlins are fun aren't they.

Appreciate the info, have checked most everything that I could think off. Replaced the battery and am not sure whether that was the problem or not. Bike shop tested it and said that it was ok. It would have been 3 years old in August. Was a glass matt batter. Time will tell.

[virgilmobile]

Voltage readings can be deceiving.They are for a reference only.I know that the wiring has a voltage drop,I've seen on my 1200 a 0.56 volt drop from the battery to the fuses.

Voltage measurements on the battery and the dash meter can vary depending on the current state of the battery,rpm of the bike,temperature and even 2 bikes.
When I look at the volt meter,I expect it to be above static volts,Eg 12.2-12.8 normal.

The static volts is with the bike OFF,no load,fully charged.

When first started the battery needs to be recharged,so it will absorb a lot of current(15 amp dc).As the charge reaches full the charge rate drops off (2-3 amp dc)and the voltage will try to rise.The regulator tapers off this excess voltage and current to ground.

I watch for a drop in the meter,usually below 12 volt,to indicate a failed charging system.As long as it stays above static,I know it's not discharging.

I confirmed this with the HF digital amp meter.Once the dash gauge started to drop in volts(below 12) it showed a 4 amp drain.I bumped the idle up to 1000 rpm to maintain at least a 1 amp charge.At 850 rpm it discharged at 3 amp.Not a real bother because I don't spend a lot of time there.

Also,the HF digital does not tell the difference between charge and discharge.It only displays current drawn through the probe.

I'm working on a mod for that.

[cowboybob]

Hi Virgil,

Have decided that I don't have a problem after all. This morning the volt meter was acting like I thought It should. Which reconfirms the information that you have given me. It has been a lot of help.

One other question that I have. I suspect that if I do have a problem it might be in the black wire that connects to the switch and excites the regulator. My question is if I were to run an auxiliary line from another source that is only on when the key is on and attached to the black wire would I get into trouble by to much voltage. I would splice into the black wire after it leaves the connection box to the regulator.

Thanks again for all the info.

cu

bobc

[virgilmobile]

No.But whats the point.The black wire that triggers the regulator to operate is the same wire that feeds the entire switched system.
The fan,the entire switched buss and fuses,etc.If the ignition wire going to the regulator is intermittent then everything thats switched would be affected also.If the voltage is flaky on the black wire,it must be a corroded contact in the ignition switch or from the main fuse.I hope you replaced the "dog-bone" with a new auto style fuseholder.

[cowboybob]

Hi Virgil,

Was just a thought. I have checked at the connection and got a reading of 12 V.

I replaced the dogbone a long time ago. Every thing seems to be in order. Haven't been riding it yet this morning but yesterday everything was OK

Thanks for the response.

cu

bobc