refurbish 82 interstate

[captaindan]

Starting my restoration on my 82 and thought I'd share and of course get more input from the experts. Hopefully the pics come through.

Well I ran into some crazy computer thing here. I can load the pics taken from my phone, but the ones taken from my camera don't want to load. I put them in the browse box and add, but then my computer says its connecting but its lying to me. Files stored in same file, jpeg image. Any ideas?

[virgilmobile]

Look at the size of the pix that loaded( xxx kb ) and compare to what doesn't load.The pix may be too big.It can be reduced on size in windows PAINT.

[captaindan]

I think you hit the nail on the head. Byte size not that different but pixel size is which I overlooked before. I will attempt to resize them with my limited computer knowledge and then post.
Time to go kill some brain cells and kick in the New Year so Happy New Year to all.

[captaindan]

Ok, hopefully I have this computer thing figured out.

[WingAdmin]

That's a little more than a refurbish...I'd call that a rebuild!

[virgilmobile]

Might as well go all the way.
You'll end up with a brand new ride on the cheep

[captaindan]

I'm calling it a PITA right now. Just got done going over my frame for rust spots.

Just to update, the left side removable frame had some pinholes in the tubing. Went after it with my chipping hammer and found it to be quite thin. No problem, already found a reasonable replacement.

Well this morning, I found the same problem on the right side. The area is in front of the lower motor mount where the frame makes the bend up towards the head. I was able to knock a small hole in this area a little bigger than a pencil. Now I am looking for suggestions. The top and sides of this area seem solid. I wonder if I could find a frame with a similar radius and cut out the rust and insert another piece. I am talking just the bottom of the tubing. Bad idea?????????? Can I wire feed the frame or does it need to be TIG welded.

I also cut the centerstand bracket off the crosspiece to give it a good check. Besides some heavy surface rust, it is solid.

If need be I can post a picture.

[captaindan]

Here's a view of what I'm am up against. I'm looking for the best way of fixing this barring replacing the frame.

[WingAdmin]

To me, when I see corrosion, my impulse is to cut out the corroded part, weld in replacement metal and repaint. Whether you have the equipment and skills to do that, I don't know. If there is a ton of it that is going to require major repair of the frame, then obviously a frame replacement is going to be the simplest plan. But if it's limited to the lower parts (where it normally is - moisture settles there, and that's where road spray is directed), you could weld in some replacement strong steel tube, paint it all, and call it good.

[captaindan]

you could weld in some replacement strong steel tube, paint it all, and call it good.[/quote]

Kind of what I would like to do. Question is, what is the proper procedure. Do you suggest starting with scrap material, or trying to find a matching section say from another frame possibly damaged somewhere else.I can cut the frame and dowel the joints, but replicating the curve and finding matching material worries me. I would like the dowels on the straight runs so they can extend well past the joint. I do know a guy with a couple of old frames. He said to help myself, but he didn't know if they were any better shape than what I have. I've done a lot of welding, but on farm equipment, never on a bike frame.

[WingAdmin]

Obviously if you can find a donor frame with undamaged sections to replace your damaged sections, that's going to be ideal - the angles will be there, and it will be a cut-and-paste job. Either way, I would strongly suggest taking good measurements of angles and lengths beforehand to make sure your repaired frame is dimensionally accurate, and perhaps making up a couple of jigs to ensure your repaired frame is correct.

Small inaccuracies in frame dimensions can make for large problems in driveability.

[scratcho]

There is a NOS frame on EBay right now. Dennis

[captaindan]

I posted this once but I don't know where it went. So if it shows up twice that is my lack of computer knowledge rearing its ugly head.

I was able to get an old 83 aspy with what appears to be a decent frame. My cousin and her husband have a bike dealership and he had this sitting in trees. He was good enough to let me have it so I am keeping my fingers crossed. Going to tear it down today and have a look.

[captaindan]

Well I got the 83 stripped down and found the frame to be solid except for the cross tube where the center stand mounts. Seems an easy fix. I have cut it out but I haven't welded in the new one yet.
The stand on the 83 is in better shape than mine. I used mine a lot. My bracket isn't as rusted as the 83 so I thought I would combine them. I ran into a problem as the pin in the 83 was rusted solid. It was rotating in the bracket. I tried many approaches to get it out with no luck. Soaking, heating, pressing, (with a 30 ton press) and good ol beating wouldn't budge it. I finally decided to cut the tube off the 83 stand and replace it with the tube on the 82 stand.
Even though my bracket was in better shape, it still needed attention. It had thin spots on the bottom from wear and tear and rust. I fixed this by building up the areas with the welder and them shaping them back with a grinder and air sander. Here's some pics. I will try to get the cross tube in the next few days. Then finish blasting and powder coated. I received my new aftermarket decals for the frame and I am very happy with them.

rusted cross tube

the 83 stand with the stubborn pin

the 82 stand, notice the reinforcement I added years ago. the left leg twisted on me

82 bracket notice the hole in the left and the wear spots on both sides

left side built up and sanded down

the right side built up but not yet ground down

a little added inside also just to be sure

82 tube welded to 83 stand connected to 82 bracket

[WingAdmin]

Great job. That pin rarely gets lubrication of any kind, and it's subjected to all kinds of road spray and dirt, so it's a common corrosion point. I made a point of greasing mine up on my 82 the last time I had it apart.

It looks like you'll have a better-than-new stand in terms of strength now.

[captaindan]

I used anti-seize on mine over the years. When I took it apart, I gave it a little tap with a hammer and it slid right out. The anti-seize doesn't seem to loose it's lubrication over the years like grease does.

[captaindan]

Cross tube replaced, center stand bracket welded on, a few parts blasted and powder coated. Getting somewhere at least. Here's some pics.

I cut a fishmouth on each end of the tubing to start.

Then I ground down the ends to fit.

Ended up with ends looking like this.

I painted the areas with extreme high temp paint to cover the inside bare spots. I then used a wire wheel to remove the paint around the area for the welds.

I fitted the tube in place and measured, tacked, measured again, and welded solid.

Then I welded the centerstand bracket in place. I used the extreme temp paint inside the bracket and on the tube. Again I used a wire wheel to remove the paint where I was going to weld.

Assorted powdercoated parts.

Swingarm

[captaindan]

Here's the powdercoated gas tank with the new decal.

[captaindan]

A new wrinkle found while blasting the frame. More welding and patching and grinding.

Here's whats inside

Notice the opening on the top. Moisture and dirt can enter here, run down past the swingarm mounts, and collect here with no where to go.

The right side has a nice opening for dirt and moisture to exit.

I'm going to blast out the area and paint the inside before I patch it. I guess it will be another day before it gets powdercoated.

[captaindan]

Looking for opinions on forks and shocks. OEM or after market on repair parts.

[RoadRogue]

For me its OEM when possible,known quality and I hate doing the job twice. Exception would be to use Progressive Suspension springs front and rear,with 15 or 20wt fork oil instead of ATF. Just my opinion

[captaindan]

For me its OEM when possible,known quality and I hate doing the job twice. Exception would be to use Progressive Suspension springs front and rear,with 15 or 20wt fork oil instead of ATF. Just my opinion

What is the advantage with the fork oil over ATF? I've never used ATF but have read noticed a lot of folks do.

[captaindan]

I did get the frame done and it is ready to powdercoat.

I cut away all the thin spots. The front I was able to build up with welds.

I cut and formed a small piece to weld to the top of the tubing which was rusted away. I drilled a hole in the end towards the bottom so moisture could drain through the hole, into the tubing, and out by the frame bolt.

Welded the heck out of it.

I then cut some filler pieces for the sides and held them in place with a small magnet and then tacked and welded.

Ground it down and smoothed it out. A little more touch up before I call it good.

Just my advice for those working on the frames. This area is stamped metal and very thin. There was no visible rust until it was blasted and blew through. I checked my old frame and it is exactly the same. Looked perfect until I went after with my chipping hammer. There is just no way for the moisture to exit once it gets in.

[RoadRogue]

ATF is what the factory put in the forks and shocks . It what the manual calls for too. I have used both ATF and10 and 15 and 20wt fork oil.The purpose of the oil is to control the springs,to slow them down a bit. The difference is that ATF is at best 7wt oil, it flows very easy.Thats fine if you want a very soft cushy ride, I prefer a little stiffer more controlled ride. The heavier forl oil moves through the orifices in the dampeners a bit slower and gives me a better feel for the road. If all you did was cruise on the interstate and wanted the softest ride you could get ,then ATF is for you. If you want to ride a little more aggressivily say in the twisties and want to control the bikes tendency to wallow , then you should use a heavier oil.
You wont get sport bike like handling ,but you will get a more predictable feel when you hit a bump and the bike is leaned over to the point where you think " just a little more and I should hear metal scraping". Bottom line is light oil means the forks move faster in both directions so you pogo more, less rebound dampening. Heavier oil means more rebound dampening with the same hardware.

Use dedicated fork oil , if you dont like it, just drain it out and put in a lighter wt fork oil or go back to ATF. Fine tune to your own liking, and change the oil every spring time. Oil is cheap compared to rebuild parts and labour, even your own labour.

BTW nice job on the frame repairs, I will be watching this thread as you rebuild. Keep the pics coming.

[captaindan]

That makes sense. Of course here in good ole southern Kansas, you have a better chance at spotting bigfoot than a twisting road.