winter rebuilds

[maestro319]

Not being ALL THAT mechanically inclined, especially with a bike that needs so much removed to get at "stuff" (and then put back in the right place with NO pieces left over) I am having a nearby shop (whom I trust) rebuild my carbs, slave cylinder, clutch, and replace the belts. He has given me an estimate of approx. $1500.00 including parts. What do you more experienced riders/wrenchers think? Does this sound like a good and fair deal to you. I think so. Oh, by the way, my ride is a 1986 GL1200 Aspencade with 94,000 miles on her. I'm thinking that, after this rebuild, I should be able to get many, many many more 1,000's of enjoyable miles from this bike. (I have been having some clutch problems lately, which is what prompted this work)

[WingAdmin]

How much of that is labor and how much is parts?

Carb rebuild can be time-consuming, and belts is also a good couple of hours of work.

[maestro319]

Not sure yet. He's going to e-mail me a breakdown. I will pay for parts up front, then labor in installments. (I don't have that much cash on hand) he wants to by OEM parts and I told him I would buy the aftermarket parts for him and he was ok with that.

[WingAdmin]

Not sure yet. He's going to e-mail me a breakdown. I will pay for parts up front, then labor in installments. (I don't have that much cash on hand) he wants to by OEM parts and I told him I would buy the aftermarket parts for him and he was ok with that.

For the carb rebuild, you want either OEM, or Randakk's parts, or you'll likely find yourself having to do it again soon.

[maestro319]

Thanks WA, I'll relay that to him. This is my first, and probably my last, bike so I do want it to last for many more years. (my friend is still riding at 80, so that gives me at least 13 more years!!!)

[dingdong]

Really not all that much out of line. Lots of hours involved. I have one question though. Why do you think the clutch needs replacing/rebuilding? Are you experiencing any specific problems?

[maestro319]

Yes, DD, last summer whenever it was hot and I was stopped, the bike would "creep" forward even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in. Kinda nerve wracking when there is a car in front of you at a stop light. Nothing I tried would stop the creeping forward. Then, when I would start he up in morning it would "lurch" forward if in first gear even with the lever pulled in. Riding and shifting going down the road had no problems. It was just when stopped or on start up.

[landisr]

It sounds like the clutch system has air in it. I would suggest you have him flush, refill and bleed the clutch hydraulic system before tearing into the clutch itself, as that requires engine removal. If that fixes it, that would save money towards more OEM parts vs aftermarket.

Just a thought.

Ron in MI

[dingdong]

It sounds like the clutch system has air in it. I would suggest you have him flush, refill and bleed the clutch hydraulic system before tearing into the clutch itself, as that requires engine removal. If that fixes it, that would save money towards more OEM parts vs aftermarket.

Just a thought.

Ron in MI

Exactly what I'm thinking. Generally a bad clutch will slip not creep. When you flush and or rebuild the clutch master and slave I'll bet the problem goes away.

[keithg64]

Not sure yet. He's going to e-mail me a breakdown. I will pay for parts up front, then labor in installments. (I don't have that much cash on hand) he wants to by OEM parts and I told him I would buy the aftermarket parts for him and he was ok with that.

For the carb rebuild, you want either OEM, or Randakk's parts, or you'll likely find yourself having to do it again soon.

I'd would go with Randaaks rebuild kit and use aftermarket timing belts.

[Dogsled]

Just curious, did your mechanic ride the bike and come up with the clutch replacement? Mine was creeping at one point and I did exactly what was recommended here and it fixed it. I didn't even rebuild anything, just fluid change and bleeding, it had a whole different feel after that.

[keithg64]

I think the 1500 is way to.much, but I work on my own bikes. I haven't had a 1200 but I had a 1100 and there isn't that much to take off to get to the parts you need. You can get a lot of info here to help you out plus you get to know your bike better and the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. Carb rebuild your machanic can do but I think you can do the rest.

[Dogsled]

Good point Keith! Maestro said "I should be able to get many, many many more 1,000's of enjoyable miles from this bike." Although he didn't say "without having to work on the bike"...if that's what he mean't, I think that everytime I fix something. The older the bike the more things break. Getting to know any bike you're riding is important (unless you're rich, then you don't have to know anything) when you're on the road alone.

[WingAdmin]

I think the 1500 is way to.much, but I work on my own bikes. I haven't had a 1200 but I had a 1100 and there isn't that much to take off to get to the parts you need. You can get a lot of info here to help you out plus you get to know your bike better and the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. Carb rebuild your machanic can do but I think you can do the rest.

I always thought the same - the 1100 is simple to work on, the 1500 looked mystifying to me, and I was a bit leery of it...but now that I've had my hands on its innards, I find the 1500 is actually just a big 1100 inside, and it's in some ways much easier to work on. If you're familiar with the 1100, you'll feel right at home working on a 1500.

[keithg64]

Yeah I think the $1500 is way much and I think the same way WA thinks about the gl1500