So, I just disassembled the bike to replace my air filter using Fred Harmon’s instructional videos. After reassembling everything, I’m now getting hyperflashing with my left/right turn signals. The emergency flashers are operating at normal speed.
I disassembled everything again right down to the air filter, reconnected the control switching panel, turned it on and I’m still getting hyperflashing turn signals. I checked for any pinched or stressed wire harnesses but everything is relaxed. All was working fine before. Any ideas as to what I may have done. Thanks.
Turn signals Hyperflashing
- aclewer
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2019 2:24 pm
- Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Turn signals Hyperflashing
Disregard my post. Crisis averted. Short answer…I’m a dope.
- ArkansasTraveler
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- Motorcycle: 2018 Goldwing Tour DCT
Re: Turn signals Hyperflashing
Well don't leave us hanging, lol...what was it ?
- aclewer
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2019 2:24 pm
- Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
- Motorcycle: 2018 Goldwing Tour
Re: Turn signals Hyperflashing
Sorry. After I replaced the air filter and reconnected the ECU, control panel connections, etc, …replaced the top shelter, I thought it would be prudent to test the electricals to see if I reconnected everything properly. Everything worked properly except for hyperflashing turn signals. So I deconstructed everything to see if I somehow pinched a harness, or missed an electrical connector somewhere. Nope, everything was fine.
So I reconstructed the plastic and connections again and still had hyperflashing signals. In desperation I reached out to several Goldwing FB pages as well as this forum for help. When one fella mentioned that hyperflashing can be caused by loose or missing connectors, it dawned on me that when I tested my electricals, I didn’t have the left and right turn signals/mirrors back on the bike. Duh! So after putting the mirrors on, all worked as it should.
So all is good. I guess the positive to all of this is I got extra practice disassembling and reassembling all the plastic panels! Lol.
So I reconstructed the plastic and connections again and still had hyperflashing signals. In desperation I reached out to several Goldwing FB pages as well as this forum for help. When one fella mentioned that hyperflashing can be caused by loose or missing connectors, it dawned on me that when I tested my electricals, I didn’t have the left and right turn signals/mirrors back on the bike. Duh! So after putting the mirrors on, all worked as it should.
So all is good. I guess the positive to all of this is I got extra practice disassembling and reassembling all the plastic panels! Lol.
- WingAdmin
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Re: Turn signals Hyperflashing
When you see hyperflashing, the very first thing to check is if all lights are operating.aclewer wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 2:34 pm Sorry. After I replaced the air filter and reconnected the ECU, control panel connections, etc, …replaced the top shelter, I thought it would be prudent to test the electricals to see if I reconnected everything properly. Everything worked properly except for hyperflashing turn signals. So I deconstructed everything to see if I somehow pinched a harness, or missed an electrical connector somewhere. Nope, everything was fine.
So I reconstructed the plastic and connections again and still had hyperflashing signals. In desperation I reached out to several Goldwing FB pages as well as this forum for help. When one fella mentioned that hyperflashing can be caused by loose or missing connectors, it dawned on me that when I tested my electricals, I didn’t have the left and right turn signals/mirrors back on the bike. Duh! So after putting the mirrors on, all worked as it should.
So all is good. I guess the positive to all of this is I got extra practice disassembling and reassembling all the plastic panels! Lol.
The bimetallic flashers work by heating up from current flow, which causes a metallic strip to move and break the connection. Once the connection is broken, current stops flowing, it cools off, the metallic strip moves back, and contact is made again.
When you have design current flowing, from several bulbs drawing current at once, you get LOTS of heat going into that strip, so it takes a little bit of time to cool off and move.
When you don't have enough current flowing (i.e. not enough bulbs connected), not as much heat gets generated, so the heating/cooling time is shortened - hence hyperflashing.