Starter Button

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:05 pm

I did a run today for a breast cancer benefit! Had a great ride! During the ride my starter button started to stick in like the spring was shot! I got home and opened the switch. The button housing is crumbled from age. I saw whole new right side switch assemblies on Ebay but $110 is money I dont have right now. Anyone had any luck with any type of push button switch that fits in that housing?

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:37 am

Sounds like a good idea, but that switch also needs to disconnect the head light when pressed. I will look around too as you are not the first with this issue.

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:49 am

There are three wires going to the button. One is a ground.

scotterichmond · Post by **scotterichmond** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:24 pm

there are a lot of uaed one here if you are willing to take a chance.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... l&_sacat=0

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:29 pm

Per the NGWClub site, Radio Shack has a momentary button that meets the requirements. Since you have a head light relay now, more options are available since the headlight kill is a low amperage now that you use relays.

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:35 pm

I bought one. Been futzing with it all night! I can't get it to work! I also got a 1983 Aspencade today. The amount of stuff wrong with that one is overwhelming!

gwlegg · Post by **gwlegg** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:09 am

This is a opcion

/forum/viewt ... =3&t=12851

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:45 am

Okay, now buying an Aspencade because your starter button has failed seems a bit "over the top". I think you now have a strong case of MBS (Multiple Bike Syndrome).

landisr · Post by **landisr** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:56 am

Oh, good one, Fred...

Barry Barker · Post by **Barry Barker** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:18 pm

I really hoped someone had fixed this problem, guess not. I am thinking about a remote starter switch under the tank cowling for the interim. I tried rebuilding the switch, but there is just not enough plastic left to glue together. Now, I can not determine if the kill switch is the problem, or the starter switch, I will bypass the kill switch in the morning and try to eliminate one of them.

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:24 pm

I got the 1100 in a trade for a KZ440 LTD I restored years ago then never rode! I was only maintaining the bike I didn't even have plates on it. For my GL1000 I put a two terminal button in the starter switch spot the I put an on off on toggel in for the lights. I now turn the lights off manually for starting the flip the switch to my dims. I flip the switch the other way for brights ( yes my bike is rigged) at least everything works! It's not so simple when all the wiring on the bike is hodge podged from the first owner! I have the original title for the bike and it's a 1976! Here's a pick of the new bike I named it the Asprincade!

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:27 pm

And yes Fred I am addicted to fixing up old bikes! I have three bikes at any given time! I really like the 76! The more I ride it the better I like it! I don't think I will ever sell it!

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:45 pm

Boy oh Boy, the Asprincade looks nice. Hope you have time to ride them both just like they deserve. Glad you have a work around on the 1976 until you rewire her.

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:14 pm

The Aspencade needs the carbs rebuilt and synced it needs the timing blets replaced the air suspension stuff doesnt work the valves seem wrong and the drive shaft turns but does not engage the back wheel. Gonna tear that business with the back wheel and shaft apart first! It needs a LOT of work! My GL1000 was about in the same shape when I got it maybe a little worse! I just like the feel of these flat fours! The bikes are a pain because it seems nobody maintained them but when you bring one back from the dead and your cruising down the highway at 65MPH you know it was worth the trouble to bring one of these gems back!

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:26 pm

Copied this off the NGW site, but not sure I understand it. Need to ponder the words some more...

You could have the starter button operate a single pole, double throw (spdt) switch. Wire the power to the common contact,
wire the headlight to the normally closed contact,
and wire the starter solinoid to the normally open contact.
Wire the switched power from the button to one side of the new relay's coil,
and the other side of the coil to ground.
That way, when the button is not pressed the head light has power. But, when you press it, it shuts off the headlight and powers the starter; which is the way it works from the factory.

I did that and it works great.

Barry Barker · Post by **Barry Barker** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:30 pm

Thanks, I will need to look at some small switches. For now I have a remote start button with the headlight on all the time. Bike starts right up, looks a little country, but i am from Arkansas.

Barry Barker · Post by **Barry Barker** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 6:24 pm

I found and NOS part for $106.00, problem solved!!!

Barry Barker · Post by **Barry Barker** » Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:19 am

Installed the new starter button yesterday, it works great, as an added bonus it looks great too!!! . For those interested http://www.outwestmotorcycles.com

1grouch2u · Post by **1grouch2u** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 6:51 pm

Barry Barker wrote:Thanks, I will need to look at some small switches. For now I have a remote start button with the headlight on all the time. Bike starts right up, looks a little country, but i am from Arkansas.

Yeah, me too- got HD sealed push-button switch off a jet-ski or something zip-tied on right under where the original button was. I had rigged the original together a couple of times with plastic-weld, but in between one of those times I had that on the back burner some tweakers made off with my box of "stuff" - it seems to work fimne so far -headlight in circuit and all- that $100.00's to get it "right" is darned elusive with always so much more to get done- always...

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:17 pm

I have the relays on mine so the light is bright I can shut mine off via toggle or switch on bright or dim and my starter button is this little guy in the pic. It cost less than $20 for the relays and everything. My lights are really bright. They were so dim I couldn't ride at night! My starter button crumbled apart inside!

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:35 pm

Your installation looks very nice Portugeezer. Nice attention to detail.

1grouch2u · Post by **1grouch2u** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:37 am

Yeah, looks really great- I just picked up one of those things (off ebay) that pulsates/flashes your headlights 4x a second- I guess when I pull it down to do a bunch of other crap I could put relays in at the same time as I do my gizmo- anyway you might sketch out a rough diagram of what you did and put it on here?

portugeezer · Post by **portugeezer** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 9:36 am

Fred posted under brighter headlamp. There are wiring diagrams there for the relays. I already asked all the dumb questions for you so it should be easy

Inside your right hand control where the button is you have three wires. The Radio Shack button has only two terminals. You solder two wires on one terminal and one on the other. Be careful not to get it too hot because I melted the first one! The problem now is the lights don't dim when you hit the start button. I ran both my headlights through the toggle. My bike was rewired by a PO and both my high and low beam were lit at the same time. I think that was an attempt to create a brighter headlamp. I use that toggle to shut the lights off during a start and to switch from low to high beam. One day I will wire it back up correctly but like you this economy has hurt me and that $100 switch is hard to come by. Too bad I don't live near you if I did I would give you a hand!

Fred Camper · Post by **Fred Camper** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 8:08 pm

I had no trouble fitting the pulsing relay and the two headlight relays in the stock headlight bucket. So if you have a naked bike, then no issues getting it to fit. Of course the naked headlight bucket has a bunch of wires inside already, but there was room in the top for the relays to squeeze in. No need to tie them down, the headlight does that as it gets pushed back in.

Kduckett · Post by **Kduckett** » Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:39 am

I know this is a old post but figured where else to start I just recently purchased a 79 wing gl1100 the lights powered off found to be a couple bad wiers and a blown dues the push button stopped working today so I went and got the push button the was spoke about earlyer in this post got it wired up and found the fues at the selinoid to b blown causing lack of power to the bike for that replaced and my push button still is not working I can get the starter to engage but using a screwdriver to comet to points of the selinoid but it aCT s like it had no fuEl any info that may b able to help me out

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