'76 Tire / Tube Confusion (Hey Confucious~!)

[1grouch2u]

Hey guys, what's up? I'm good but this month I'm gonna have to get a new tire on the back of my '76 (yeah, it still runs...) I'm browsing Ebay for bargains, but having trouble figuring out what size tube to put in what size tyre. I think I've figured out that a 130/90H-17 will work even though a 120/90H-17 is closer to the OEM size (I'm hoping the bigger tire will last longer, right?) -but what's the deal with tube sizes? I only found one on there marked "130/70-17" but isn't there another way they're acceptably sized in inch/fractional? (i.e. 5.10x17?) If you know the secret please enlighten me!

Also, since my wheels are aluminum spoked, stock rims, aren't they automatically tube-type wheels? (Or did they make some tubeless aluminum spoked wheels in 1976 too?) If so how do I tell?

I've got to get this old bike up on the center stand (or take the battery out and lay it down on it's crash bars) and commit to this tyre change before I get in trouble, but I'll be waiting your always sensible reply- Thanks in advance

1Grouch2u

(p.s. trouble being zero tread and patches of cord showing through... yikes!!!)

[cbx4evr]

On the tubes the designation is usually either in inches or millimetres.

5.10 inches = 130 mm

1" = 25.4 mm

It's time the USA went metric.


If you have spoked wheels then you need a tube in the tire.

[1grouch2u]

So I def need a tube (the old one that's in there has both a patch and slime) - straight answer please: what size tube do I need for a 130/90-17 tire? (thanks) Am I to assume the 5.10 is what I go by, and the 90 part is disregarded ...?

[tom84std]

Hey 1grouch I've found it helpful to simply CALL whichever tire place you're buying the tire and tell them to include a new tube and rimstrip with it. Hope this helps.

[Fred Camper]

Yes, no worry about the 90 aspect number,it is the 17 and 5.1 or 130 you need to match.

[cbx4evr]

Tubes are made to fit a range of tires. They don't make a tube for every tire size out there.

This will work:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/ ... C_ID=10010

[Fred Camper]

Yup, that will work.

[1grouch2u]

Okay I'm going into this thing a lot more confidently now thanks to all you guys feedback- that's mostly what I wanted was the confidence

There are lots of different tubes and tyres on Ebay- but that Michelin "B" 17 I think I'd tend to have more confidence in than something at half the price I've never heard of- same way with a "clearence" Dunlop Tyre (I just hope it hasn't been sitting on a shelf 10-15 years... )

It's been raining non-stop for a few days here, but tomorrow when my check gets here I'll order my parts and get the wheel pulled off and cleaned up.

Still haven't decided for sure if I want to pull the battery then lie it over on it's crash bars, put it on the center stand, un-bolt the shocks, or side-stand then jack it from the other side... but I bet I';ll figure it out! Thanks guys, you're the best!

(I've still gotta check my rocker shafts, cams, adjust the rockers- synch (again) the carbs- it's always something, but the old thing just keeps on, and on, and on... amazing machine!)

[scotterichmond]

Have you looked here? the best prices I have found on the name brands.


http://www.jakewilson.com/

[landisr]

Hey, Grouch... To ease the pain of putting your scoot up on it's centerstand, just grab a short piece of 2x4 or something similar and roll the back tire up on it, then it will roll onto the stand with very little coaxing. Just place the back tire against the 2x4, roll the bike forward about a foot (sorry, don't know the metric equivilent of a foot ) and roll it backwards up on to the board. Just be ready with the front brake.

Ron in MI

[1grouch2u]

Update- put the bike up on center stand out back on the breezeway between the kitchen and the laundry room. Under a roof on nice smooth cement and very nearby and convenient. As I left the house today on my way to dialysis I noticed I was driving on a flat on my VW- I aired it up and after dialysis (and airing it up again) went by a friend from church's shop and he put me a new valve stem in the VW rim, and mounted my tire/tube for my GoldWing (which was luckily in the trunk!) All this for only $10.00!!

I was pleased to discover that those new(er) tire machines- that have the bead breaker on the side- could handle M/C wheels.

[1grouch2u]

Crud! -I forgot something Iwas intending on saying... I replaced the rear tire with a 130/90-17 . What I pulled off was a 120/90-17. (Hopefully it will fit. ?) Is this slightly larger tire going to make it any easier to get off and on the center stand? I hope so- just thought I'd ask since I'm curious and will not be checking it soon since I'm now in the middle of replacing a cylinder head.

[Old Fogey]

Many of us running the 130 tyre size; no problem there, but for those that think they can go bigger, even that size is really pushing the limits of the rim width.

[mauricel 1939 #2913]

HI. This is my first post on this site. I have a 1977 GL 1000 that I have purchesed New in 77. I just purchesed a tire for my bike, the old tire had a couple small weather cracke in the side wall. The tire I bought is a Shinko 230 tour master 130/90v/17. After reading this article I am wondering if I bought the wrong size tire? I have a tube type rim and I bought a tubeles tire I called the co and they told me it would be O K as long as I used a tube. It was a 99 dollar tire on sale for 71, and no $ for shipping. Also it was a two day delivery.

[Fred Camper]

Should work just fine, no worries. if it has an issue at all, it will rub the driveshaft tube. If so, mark the tight soot on the driveshaft. A hammer can provide a flat in the driveshaft tube just enough to get clearance.

[mauricel 1939 #2913]

Thanks for that info. I will give it a try as soon as the weather is good enough to ride in the spring. I don't think I would take a hammer to the shaft housing though.