Starter problem ??

[grandpa]

Hi folks.

I have a problem with my starter. Something like twaggoner but not the same. When I push the starter button sometime the starter turns freely and sometimes it turn just a little and then stops. It does that a couple of times and then when it stops, witout releasing the starterbutten, the engine starts straight away.
It does the same even if I jumpstart from my car battery. So no power source problems. It can do the same if I have been driving, then turn off the engine and try start it straight away. So it can not be a fuel block.
When the starter turn, the engine start instantly. I have electronic ignition. I willl take the starter off for overhaul this winter but are there other things I shall pay atention to.
Brgds Grandpa

[virgilmobile]

Other than what your going to do,there are 2 other things.
The starter solenoid is a big,high current switch.The contacts inside do deteriorate.
Second,check the mechanical advance mechanism.they can get sticky.It can stick in the full advance position.This would cause it to spark well before TDC and the starter would have to push past it.

[grandpa]

Hi.

Thanks for the advise about the starter relay. I did not check it before I removed it but now I have checked the resistance between the two main conectors. I conected 12 volt to the coil and the relay clicked. Now I checked the recistance and there is .3ohm. I dont know how much a starter draw during start seqence but lets say 20 Amps whish give a 6 volt drop and only leave 6 volt to the starter.

I therefor need a new relay. I have looked around on the net to find one and there are a lot af them. Can one of you guys recomand a place to buy so I can have it shiped to Denmark.

Mery Christmas and Happy new year to all of you out there.

[Fred Camper]

Now keep in mind that mine would sometime crank well, and others would go real slow. I followed the rebuild instructions on this site, and with no new parts required now have a fast starter all the time.

[portugeezer]

Make sure you don't have gas in the cylinders from a stuck needle too. I did all kinds of work on the starter of my GL1100 only to find my left cylinders were full of gasoline!

[1grouch2u]

Ja, what P/Geezer said. -I'm in the process of replacing my left cylinder head because of what I suspect to have been a fuel "hydro-lock" on my #4 cylinder. It bent the valve and snapped the valve guide. I had a sudden and quite bad fuel leak where the air box halves join together. Be sure to turn off the gas at the petcock EVERY TIME you turn off the engine!

[1grouch2u]

Ja, what P/Geezer said. -I'm in the process of replacing my left cylinder head because of what I suspect to have been a fuel "hydro-lock" on my #4 cylinder. It bent the valve and snapped the valve guide. I had a sudden and quite bad fuel leak where the air box halves join together. Be sure to turn off the gas at the petcock EVERY TIME you turn off the engine!

Pardon me though- I didn't read right where you said "no fuel block" -went right over my head! Be gentle going through your starter be one less thing, and just might fix your problem (har har) Seriously, best of luck

[grandpa]

Hi 1grouch2u
No problem. But ref your reply about "hydro-lock" and not to forget to shut off the fuel. I complete agree, but people here in Denmark say "never do that" That will dry out all the rubber parts ind caburator, they say. I allways close the fuel even with short stop.
I am of the old school and aircraft mechanich. I have woorked on aircraft engines with hanging cylinders and we allways turned the engine by hand befor starting. Risk of hydro-lock. I have seen a cylinder head almost seperate because of hydr-lock.
So yes, never forget to shut off the fuel.

[1grouch2u]

Good Grandpa-pa, I think it's best.

(My father was an aircraft mechanic during WWII - for the USAAF. He remained stateside due to our last name being 'Kreischer', which worked out just fine as he met my mother at a USO function- and the rest is history! )

The carburetors on these for some reason were not engineered with any provision for overflow from the float bowls. On most other bikes that did have overflow/vented carbs I understand the argument for not constantly disturbing the feeble old petcock rubbers (by the way, Randakk is practically up to his ears in replacement petcock rubbers for these at a reasonable price. Made of a superior compound -viton I believe- than the original.) but on these it's therefore a must-do.

And so we both know better than what your compatriots suggest- but if any of them ride one of our old Goldwings, you must impress upon them that in this circumstance it is imperative to do as we say!

[1grouch2u]

Grandpa~ Have you had experience with 'Victor-Reinz' gaskets? Specifically head gaskets? I'm thinking they are excellent product from past experience with using the on foreign cars (well, foreign to here!) but no one seems familiar that I've asked. If you know please give me a yay/nay on them. Thanks.

[grandpa]

Grandpa~ Have you had experience with 'Victor-Reinz' gaskets? Specifically head gaskets? I'm thinking they are excellent product from past experience with using the on foreign cars (well, foreign to here!) but no one seems familiar that I've asked. If you know please give me a yay/nay on them. Thanks.

Hello again.

I do not know anny thing about Victor-Reinz gaskit. I have never replaced one on my Wing and the names of those I used when I were Air Craft mecahnic are long gone. I am born in 1946 but when I joint The Danish Air Force we still used R-1340 Wasp on the Haward and R-1830 Twin Wasp on C-47 Dakota. I have also worked on Gipsy Major MK 10 fitted to Chipmunk Trainer. Working on R-1830 Twin Wasp was realy a beautifull job. Later on I also worked on Jet engines.

Good luck