Oil leaking from weep hole under water pump

[Raiderpops13]

So I'm having some trouble with my 1979 GL1000. There's oil leaking out of the weep hole just under the water pump. I'm looking to see if someone might be able to help me out with the process on how I could maybe fix this myself. Any help or photos/video links would be greatly appreciated.

Didn't see anything that tackled this already on the forum. Thanks!

[WingAdmin]

There is an article for the 1100, and the procedure is almost exactly the same: How to remove and replace your water pump

[Placerville]

Whether it's oil or radiator fluid coming from the weep hole, you're going to have to pull the pump.

There are three things that can cause oil to come from the weep hole and all three are related to the pump. They are: A bad pump seal, a pinched pump O-ring or defective pump crush washers.

The first thing you'll want to do is remove the pump cover. (lower hose/cover). That will expose your water pump impeller. Put your thumb on the end of the impeller and try to wiggle it back and forth and up and down. (A small amount of clockwise/counter-clockwise movement of the impeller is OK.) Any up-down, left-right movement, no matter how slight, means your pump needs to be replaced. However, if there's no movement, then one of the 3 items listed above is causing a leak.

Frankly, if you pull the pump cover and find an original Bakelite (brown) impeller, you'd be wise to replace the pump whether it exhibited any movement or not as it's the original pump and will soon fail.

To do a complete pump job, you will need a new pump (best price here) and this water pump kit. With these two items, you'll have everything you'll need to complete the job. While you're at it, consider changing your thermostat and hoses and having your radiator cleaned as well.

Along with the tutorial mentioned above, I'd read through Randakk's tutorial here and Roady's at the NGW. Just like maintenance manuals, you'll get something from each of them.

A pump job is not difficult but, it's one of the most tiresome jobs due to it's location, the removal of the baked-on gaskets and the %#%$ Phillips-headed fasteners that are often frozen. If you find that any of those fasteners are stubborn, pay particular attention to Randakk's 'Bingo' method.

[wanickbill]

Im having the same problem...thanks for the info guys...although I would dissagree with the gentleman's "best price" as western Honda has em for about $118... thanks for the links to step by step...looks like im NOT in this alone

[Placerville]

Im having the same problem...thanks for the info guys...although I would dissagree with the gentleman's "best price" as western Honda has em for about $118... thanks for the links to step by step...looks like im NOT in this alone

....and the link I showed above (SouthSound Honda) has them for $109.

[wanickbill]

cool placerville...Luckily i live about 2 miles from Western Honda... so I can get my instant gratification on! haha... have any of you dont this? how long did it take? im kinda betting that each varies with those dang phillips head screws, eh?

[Placerville]

cool placerville...Luckily i live about 2 miles from Western Honda... so I can get my instant gratification on! haha... have any of you dont this? how long did it take? im kinda betting that each varies with those dang phillips head screws, eh?

That's good. If they actually have one 'in stock', you won't have shipping charges. Nice.

I did a complete 'front end' job two years ago. Along with a new pump, I replaced the hoses (still available from Honda at that time) thermostat, fan switch, temp switch, had the radiator cleaned and tubes joints re-soldered (important) and repainted everything associated with the job.

The hardest parts is the location of everything (a lift would be nice) gasket removal (tedious and difficult) and any Phillips headed screws that are frozen. (Believe me, the 'Bingo' method on Randakk's site is very helpful.)

The job is not difficult, just time consuming if done with every bit if attention to detail you can muster. Between waiting for parts, my very anal approach to cosmetics and my cautious approach to 'all things mechanical' it took me a couple of weeks. But, the job could actually be done in 4 hours if all you did was replace the pump (and the gaskets and Phillips screws cooperated).

[1grouch2u]

I got a used Honda metal-impeller pump with front case off Ebay really cheap- heck of a deal! -The gasket/O-ring set was the biggest part of the cost- changed out the phillips screws for allen-head- the front had already been off before when I got the motor- but yeah, got really lucky and everything held up and still works great. Not a particularly formidable task, but do recommend making a cardboard template / locator jig to keep track of where everything goes, just in case it does take a minute due to waiting on parts and stuff. Pretty straightforward job, and like has been mentioned there are lots of tutorials and guides on here to make sure you don't run into any glitches. There are lots of extra stuffs you can (and probably should) do while you're in there, so unless you're rushed for other reasons by all means flush your rad., change thermostat, hoses, screws,etc...

[Raiderpops13]

Thank you to all! I ordered all the parts i need and now i will have to find some one to work on my bike i live in San Leandro Ca. My guy moved away and i do not think that i can do it my self.

[wanickbill]

...and the link I showed above (SouthSound Honda) has them for $109.[/quote]

didnt see the $109 only the reatail price they listed... looks like they have the part in stock...and bob's has that gasket kit in stock too! I'm hoping replacing this will stop the crazy amount of oil that drained out, and get me rollin again! I have one month til I can ride again anyway so ive been putting the bike to the side so im not tempted...

[wanickbill]

I got a used Honda metal-impeller pump with front case off Ebay really cheap- heck of a deal! -The gasket/O-ring set was the biggest part of the cost- changed out the phillips screws for allen-head- the front had already been off before when I got the motor- but yeah, got really lucky and everything held up and still works great. Not a particularly formidable task, but do recommend making a cardboard template / locator jig to keep track of where everything goes, just in case it does take a minute due to waiting on parts and stuff. Pretty straightforward job, and like has been mentioned there are lots of tutorials and guides on here to make sure you don't run into any glitches. There are lots of extra stuffs you can (and probably should) do while you're in there, so unless you're rushed for other reasons by all means flush your rad., change thermostat, hoses, screws,etc...

I plan on replacing and cleaning a lot while im under there for sure... i read (somewhere) that napa has the replacement hoses that you can cut into place. radiator **** is a great idea too! I may or may not need a new started too, but ill mess with that when I get to it and stop this incessant oil leak! cheers!

[1grouch2u]

Little known fact...

However these oil leaks from the water pump weep hole have been known to slow or even fix themselves after being ridden just a little while... No ****, I personally have had it happen to me after sitting up a while, but then I rode it to where I was going to be working on it and by the time I had gotten there the leak had stopped- and stayed stopped - that was my last engine and I don't think it ever manifested itself again-

I don't know if we can get anybody else to chime in about this particular quirk, but I recall it being something that not only I myself have experienced

[Rowdy]

Yes I agree with you , on the oil leak at weep hole,the engine likes to run .this may only work in TEXAS,!!!!

[wanickbill]

mine doesnt want to fix itself. it had been leaving a few drops for a while and i figured id roll with it, because i had read that too... unfortunately, i parked it and it went all out for a few days until all gone... i wish it woulda fixed itself

[Placerville]

I don't think there are any 'holistic' leaks. It could be possible that as the engine heats up, the area where the leak is occurring may expand thus shutting down the leak. Then, when the engine cools, it may leak again. However, this would be a very unusual occurrence and one that wouldn't continue in that fashion. It's only going to get worse. So, of the three things that could be the cause of the oil leak i.e., a bad pump seal, a pinched pump O-ring and a defective pump crush washer, it's plausible that any of the three could react to engine heat and stop leaking for a time.

[Fred Camper]

If it don't leak after two tanks of fuel, then don't fix it.

[Raiderpops13]

Thank you to all i think i found a good guy to work on my bike and he said its only about a five hour job. I am to ride it for a couple days and see if it still leaks before i take it to him.
Thanks again Lewi (AkA) Raiderpops13

[sfruechte]

The screws that are behind the frame tubes and you cannot get at with an impact driver can be loosened if you have a phillips bit that is the right length that can be pryed with a screwdrive to hold it in place and turn it with a wrench. The bits for my impact drive just happened to be the right length for this and with a long screwdrive you have enough leverage that the screw has no choice but to turn.

I changed my water pump at 216,000 miles but I think the pump itself was fine, even though it was one of the old bakelite pumps. There was one small oil seal that comes with the gasket kit where the oil was obviously getting into the water and that was all I likely had to replace. It is quite a job though and the gasket kit isn't cheap either so it might make sense to replace the pump even if it doesn't need it.

[markplace]

Hi dudes, I'm new to this site and new to my 77 gl1000. Has anyone not been able to remove the Phillips head screws on the water pump plate and came up with creative ways of getting them out?

[sfruechte]

Look at my post just above yours. Prying the phillips bit against the frame with a large screwdrive worked for me. The impact drive bits I used were hex shaped and I could put a wrench on them to turn them while the screwdrive forces them into the screw so they do not want to slip out. Ultimately though I have just learned is these probably are not really phillips screws but JIS screws that have a slightly different profile that causes the phillips bit to want to slip out.

[markplace]

Thanks, but I think I'm beyond the impact driver. Tried it and no love there. I've been researching screw extractors. We'll see what happens.

[Fred Camper]

They are not Phillips, you are correct that the heads are JIS. That is one reason why they strip when using a Phillips head driver. But I think an impact driver may work with a Phillips bit due to the extra pressure.

[1grouch2u]

Or use a small chisel and a decent hammer. Usually busts 'em right loose, then you end up with a slot where you can use a regular screwdriver the rest of the way out. Yeah it means you'll have to replace the screws but then you'll have an excuse to go back with some allen-head screws that are easier to work with. (I know- not recommended by the Honda gurus, but just be careful not to over tighten them and they work good for me)

Oh yeah, and I almost forgot! Small Vice~Grip pliers are indispensable on this (accept no substitutes!)

[markplace]

I finally used Grabit extractors. Thats what got them out. Then i found someone on naked goldwings that sells a full set of allens for $13 including shipping. Win win.

[Fred Camper]

I bought the same package on NGWClub from Robin. I plan to put them in soon as I removed the radiator and now there is better access.

My radiator did not need removal. As once I got it out and pressure tested it, it passed and then I figured out that the upper radiator hose was leaking just a touch when the upper hose cooled down and contracted and the screw clamp did not contract at all and opened up a small leak. It never leaked when riding or parked hot, only if it sat for several days. The moral of the story is never let your bike sit for several days.