Manifold bolt torque

Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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Manifold bolt torque

Post by pshaginaw »

Try as I might, I have not found a reference for the correct torquing of the manifold -to-cylinder head bolts.
The shop manual references removal of the acorn nuts holding the manifolds,but just states reverse the steps on re-assembly. No torque value given. Same with the Clymer manual. Same with the Honda Do-it-yourself maintenance download. Lots of cautions about stripping bolts in an aluminum head, but no rerference to correct torquing.I am not using the stock bolts with the acorn head, but have used a Tek-Bolt M6-32 flange bolt replacement.
Shop manuals for other Honda models recommend 10ft-lbs torque for a M6-32 bolt into an aluminum block. Does this value seem safe to use for the GL1000?

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Re: Manifold bolt torque

Post by virgilmobile »

The info you have sounds fine...Generally,there is a generic recomended torque for a given size bolt/nut in every service manual.
It's not uncommom to omit this info for the reassembly unless it's a critical point of the heads or axle bolts...

The info you got is more accurate than the German torque guide..."goudentight" :D
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Fred Camper
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Re: Manifold bolt torque

Post by Fred Camper »

There are rubber seals under the bolt heads and you do not want to over compress them. Best check them hot.
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Re: Manifold bolt torque

Post by Winger1957 »

Good to know the torque specs. I was working on 15 ft/lb but it felt too tight. Scared me but I had just discovered a pinched seal from the PO and was re-using the cut one with some silicon gel. Had a really hard time setting points and timing today. Also found a bent/pinched air check valve hose and put a nice curve in that plus a zip tie at the carb end. Some MOAB backfires today. Blew the freeze plug out of my left side HD Sportster muffler with a plugged crossover port. Want the crossover but centerstand is in the way. My points died as I was trying to get this ride up to 100mph. Got to 90 and the energy just went away. Ran ok but was missing a little. Next day (yesterday), missing badly. Spent most of the day static timing new points. A first. Worked ok but the miss was terrible. Rechecked starboard valve gaps (perfect), pulled the intake manifolds and found the leaker. My synchros showed a leak in 1 or 3, and sure enough there it was. Didn't have a new seal so I shoved the pinched one back in the groove and layed some silicon on top of it. Who knows? Might work. Then I had to remount my port side muffler. Used JB Weld to glue the freeze plug in and it should be good to go tomorrow. On the points, I used some sturdy needle nose pliers to grip a little brass tab at the top of the plate and rotate the whole assembly with the engine running to get the best rpm performance. The needle nose grab really made a huge difference in how I timed it. Before the needle nose pliers, I was nudging the plate adv/ret trying to land on a sweet spot.
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Re: Manifold bolt torque

Post by AZgl1800 »

I always went by Wrist Feel.

the hand can sense when the bolt resists being turned anymore.
No matter the actual "torque value", that is "good enough" or you will break something.


2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc
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