Regulator problem

Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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the wings
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:03 pm
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1978 gl1000

Regulator problem

Post by the wings »

Hi, i have 1978 gl1000. 3 months ago i was reading lest than 8 volt on gauge, same day replaced rictifire and everythings work good, then 2 weeks ago installed electronic ignition all was good till 5 days ago start to droping voltage,i check rictifire,,, sure conector was melt and bad rictifire, so friday i replaced good used rictifire, charghed battery and then start it up but i still have same problem plus the 3 yelow wires are getting very hot and voltage shows below 8 and i am sure i am using only battery and is not charging, i did check all the wires conectors, cleaned and conect them back, check for any short or wire tuching but don't see any problem, start it up again and 3 yelow wires getting hot again, still voltage reading is low and as long bike is runing voltage drops more, may be altenator, stator???? i just runing of idea, if any body have idea? yhank you. Domo :idea:

Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:56 pm
Location: Rochester, MN
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800 Goldwing

Re: Regulator problem

Post by wildbiker »

How old is your battery? What kind is it? (Standard lead-acid? Gel-cell? Sealed?) Lead-acid batteries get to a point where they can short internally for short periods and cause problems. Basically, it drops the load to the charging circuit to zero while it's charging, causing a spike in current that can fry things. I''ve only seen it twice in decades of bike riding and maintainence on bikes that would be over 30 years old now.
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Posts: 423
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:58 pm
Location: Placerville, CA
Motorcycle: 1976 Naked Yellow

Re: Regulator problem

Post by Placerville »

The 8 pin connector from the stator to the rectifier is often a source of problems, specifically, the three yellow stator wires. Although this may not be your specific issue, I strongly encourage you to follow up on this.

Over time, corrosion occurs in the stator/rectifier connector. When that happens, things start heating up. With more heat comes more corrosion until the connector itself starts to melt. As you can imagine, this leads to charging and performance issues. You need to ensure that the yellow wire connections aren't just 'clean to your eye' but, that they are connected properly to their wires. This means that the connectors need to be soldered to the wire, not just crimped. Even though the spade connector looks clean, the area where the wire is crimped to the connector is not making proper contact and that results in overheating.

Some have opted to eliminate the plastic connector and solder all of the wires together. That's one method. But, if you want to keep your bike original, you must replace the plastic housing along with the spade connectors. As you do that, you must solder the wires to the connectors. When completed, you will no longer have an overheating problem with the stator wires due to a poor connection. It's also a good practice to inject DI-electric grease into both 'wire entry' ends of the connector housing after it's snapped together to prevent future corrosion from intruding.

Here is a statement from 'Guru' Mike Nixon's Web site:

"On the subject of alternator connector melting, much has been made of this but the actual cause is something Honda and others have done to all their bikes from nearly the beginning, but which started to catch up with them as system loads and outputs went up, and before the advent of the rubber sealed connectors that would later prevent the problem on modern bikes. The problem is the crimping. It builds up resistance over time and with constant exposure to the atmosphere and elements. This resistance produces heat (acting like a headlight filament) and soon it is too much for the cheap plastic connector blocks. More than just the Wings had this problem, many other Honda models (SOHC, DOHC fours, V4s, etc), and also many other brands of bikes. The fix and preventative is to individually remove each spade male and female terminal from inside both halves of the connector and clean, re-crimp and then carefully solder the terminals onto their wires (not to each other!). When assembling the connector, use grease, any kind but preferably dielectric. By the way, the factory Honda kit for repairing its alternator connectors, probably no longer available, included wire and connectors and solder, though the solder was intended for the wires, not for the terminals. Do the terminals anyway. The connector will never melt again."

If you choose to replace the connector to EOM specs., you'll find everything you need here.
Placerville- 1976 Yellow
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