Synthetic Oil.

[GallowGlass]

Can anyone give me a definitive answer to the following question.

I have a 1978 GL1000 and would like to know if it is safe for me to use synthetic oil.

Many Thanks.

[dingdong]

In three words: Yes. No. Maybe. Just joking! Yes you can.
viewtopic.php?t=16177

[sfruechte]

There's been a lot of discussion that synthetic oil WITH friction modifiers is bad for wet clutches, which Goldwings have. You can get synthetic oil without though, just be aware.

[f1xrupr]

I'm using royal purple (synthetic)15w40-it's for diesel engines....works great. Was using 20w50....to thick....

[maintainer]

Options

You can take all the mystery out of oil selection by buying synthetic moto specific 4 cycle oil at the recommended weight. (It is crazy expensive typically)

Ask someone you trust about their experience with synthetic oil in motorcycles.


Do some research online and discover.

Honestly there are so many myths about the hazards of synthetic oil's different weights etc. it is ridiculous.

After years of oil's and how they work with 4 cycle motorcycle engines this is what I have found:

Synthetic basically extend oil change mileage intervals and retains lubriticity for longer and tends to smooth shifts better than convential motor oil's.

There is no, none, zero hazard to using synthetics other than the price generally UNLESSthey list and contain claimed fuel economy increasing friction modifiers. This type ingredient alone is what can possibly effect a wet clutch and cause it to slip.

I use synthetic and have for years with good results and many different bikes including three different Goldwings.

My current flavor preference is Rotella diesel oil. It is durable, made for heavy duty applications, and is available locally at a reasonable price.

[ned]

Without going into details... You can use any type of oil in your bike so long as it complies with the JASO MA standard.

"JASO MA – This is the standard for single unit engines where the wet clutch, gearbox and engine used the same oil. JASO-MA oils don’t contain friction modifiers." It is a Japanese standard that was brought in to make sure the new oil developments (friction modifiers) do not interfere with the wet clutch operation.

You will find that JASO MA is further split into MA1 and MA2.

JASO MA2 is what you should use simply because it is less likely to allow the clutch to slip. Most high end bike oil brands have a MA2 sticker on them.

Many oils (without modifiers) will make the grade but most manufacturers will not tell you. It costs money to have the certification displayed and that may also screw around with the sales of the motorcycle specific oils. (Just my view )

[f1xrupr]

Good point Ned....What do all those letters and numbers stand for anyway-anybody know?.....I mean like-to word it out rather than abbreviate.

[ned]

Good point Ned....What do all those letters and numbers stand for anyway-anybody know?.....I mean like-to word it out rather than abbreviate.

A quick look tells me that it is an acronym for Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO). JASO is part of the Society of Automotive Engineers of Japan.

MA1 and MA2 are ranges, essentially of slipperiness the oil can be. I don't know what the MA acronym stands for. Here is the plain language explanation of the standard and MA ranges. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/ ... 202014.pdf

My interpretation is that the higher figure of friction parameters in MA2 say that this oil is less likely to cause clutch slippage.

[SnoBrdr]

+1 on the Rotella and it's cheap at Wal-Mart, at least in the USA.

I change it every 2k.

[pftjsquire]

So I just rescued a 77 GL1000. The previous owner was having some clutch problems before he parked it. I found out that he used synthetic oil the last time he changed it (200 miles ago). Has this caused permanent damage to the clutch or can I just drain it, replace the filter, flush it, replace the filter and put the right oil (Rotella T 15-40)in it? It hasn't run in over a year btw.

[SnoBrdr]

So I just rescued a 77 GL1000. The previous owner was having some clutch problems before he parked it. I found out that he used synthetic oil the last time he changed it (200 miles ago). Has this caused permanent damage to the clutch or can I just drain it, replace the filter, flush it, replace the filter and put the right oil (Rotella T 15-40)in it? It hasn't run in over a year btw.

Synthetic in itself should do no damage to the clutch.

It's the oils that have "friction modifiers" that can cause the clutch to slip.

[WingAdmin]

So I just rescued a 77 GL1000. The previous owner was having some clutch problems before he parked it. I found out that he used synthetic oil the last time he changed it (200 miles ago). Has this caused permanent damage to the clutch or can I just drain it, replace the filter, flush it, replace the filter and put the right oil (Rotella T 15-40)in it? It hasn't run in over a year btw.

Synthetic oil is not necessarily bad - it's oils that have friction modifiers in them that cause clutch damage. I have been running synthetic oil in my bikes for years with great results.

[maintainer]

So I just rescued a 77 GL1000. The previous owner was having some clutch problems before he parked it. I found out that he used synthetic oil the last time he changed it (200 miles ago). Has this caused permanent damage to the clutch or can I just drain it, replace the filter, flush it, replace the filter and put the right oil (Rotella T 15-40)in it? It hasn't run in over a year btw.

If it we're me: I would drain it, refill with a 50/50 mix of cheapest dino oil you can find and some ATF, or Marvel mystery oil or Seafoam. Start it up after (don't ride) on the centerstand get it good and hot and run it through the gears then drain it and change the oil to something good like Rotella.

No oil will "permanently" damage motorcycle wet clutch plates, the plates are fiberous and absorb some oil so the wrong type with friction modifiers causes the clutch to slip. It could take more than one heat cycle and flush to help it.

[pftjsquire]

Thank you. I am assuming that since the previous owner didn't know that synthetic might hurt the wet clutch, that he did not make sure that he was purchasing the correct lubricant without the "modifiers". And since he had clutch problems right after changing the oil.......

Thanks again.

[f1xrupr]

Make sure your dyno oil for your flush don't have friction mods....10w40 will work-(no writing in the bottom half of the doughnut on the back of the oil bottle). After you get the engine warm, hold the clutch in for long duration(s) to allow the oil between the plates