75 GL1000 Carb Cleaning Help! Really Bad

Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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Motorcycle: 1975 Gl1000

75 GL1000 Carb Cleaning Help! Really Bad

Post by tolargl1000 »

Hello, this is my first post to the forums. I am in the process of getting my 1975 Gl1000 running. I bought the bike for a deal. It has 18000 original miles and looks pretty good. It sat along with the carbs in a ladys garage for no telling how many years. I have never seen any this gummed up. What do you more seasoned veterns suggest for getting this junk off of the inside of the carbs. I have rebuilt many carbs on dirt bikes and what not. I have not seen any quite this bad. Nothing moves and I can not even pull out the jets. I dont want to screw up anything. Once I get this crud off, I will be rebuilding them with all new gaskets, orings, etc....

Thank you for your input.

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Re: 75 GL1000 Carb Cleaning Help! Really Bad

Post by spiralout »

Put the bowls back on for protection then split the plenum and unbolt the carb pairs from it so they're easier to deal with. You can leave the carb stay on the top side so that it holds the pairs together. That way you shouldn't have to mess with the shaft linkage. Melt off as much of the gunk as you can with spray cleaner then start soaking the float pins with that can of PB Blaster. The pins are tapered and only come out one way. Of utmost importance is that you're careful when tapping out the pins, the posts can break easily. After you have the floats off, boil them in distilled water to soften up the gunk. Soak with more PB if needed, reboil, etc.
The best advice I can give is not to use rebuild kits from Sabre Cycle.
There's a step by step here and good info here and here
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Re: 75 GL1000 Carb Cleaning Help! Really Bad

Post by sfruechte »

I've used lacquer thinner on tough stuff but make sure there is nothing rubber anywhere near the lacquer thinner. 35 years ago gasoline could clean carbs but now with ethanol, it somehow gets as hard as a fossil. Avoid ethanol.
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Re: 75 GL1000 Carb Cleaning Help! Really Bad

Post by Ncscooter »

Brake cleaner and carb cleaner. If you get PBblaster and the like on the rubber parts, they will swell and make it DIFFICULT to remove the brass parts. I used Randakk's kit w/ the video. Price is reasonable because it has everything, he includes the air cut off rebuild and the petccok rebuild. Make sure you clean the tank and install a new filter. He recommends against soaking the whole rack in anything. When you separate them from the plenum, keep the chrome trim on the pair to prevent flexing. Can't remember what that piece is called, looks like a hockey stick. I cleaned my tank with "The Works" toilet cleaner. Spent about $15 for the Dollar General product. Did get a funny look from the cashier.
Keep your expectations tiny and you won't end up so whiny.
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Re: 75 GL1000 Carb Cleaning Help! Really Bad (Soda Blasting)

Post by ned »

Soda blasted carbs

Hi all,

Just a note to describe my experience. Your pic above looked very much like my case.
Tried to chemically clean carbs that had corrosion, both rust and pot alloy.

Unfortunately chemical dips are specific to the type of rust (oxide) so even if white pot metal rust disappears normal rust remains. Also brass components and plugs are sensitive to aggressive acids and solvents so I prefer not to use them.

So, I tried sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) blasting using my home made gun. Soda and gun cost around $10, but you can get a, say, gravity fed gun for around $30-$50.

This worked well for me:
a. Soda blasted the carbs to remove surface rust and staining at 60psi. Higher pressure can be used but I didn’t see any point in that. I did this in the back yard because bicarbonate is not toxic and it dissolves in water. Be sensible with eye and dust mask protection.
b. Pickle the whole thing in cheap bulk vinegar (about $2/gallon) to neutralise and dissolve soda powder
c. Dip the carbs or water blast them (hose with a fine nozzle) to get rid of residual vinegar. Leave the whole ting to dry in the sun (summer here :)

Soda is soft … 2.5 on 1 to 10 hardness scale. Talc powder is 1 and diamond is 10, so no harm will be done to the metal.

The advantage of soda is that It easily dissolves in water or neutralises in cheap vinegar leaving no traces or staining from chemical dips. If you use sand or insoluble grit, you will find it lodged in ports and passages with no way to remove it. Soda is like sugar or salt. Dip it in water and it all goes away.

I find this to be a quick and easy way of cleaning all alloy parts.

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