Wiring

[Stumped]

I am rebuilding a 1977 GL1000. When I got the bike I was told it ran prior to it sitting. Small background the bike didn't have the gauge cluster, the junction box, had a mess of home spliced wires some going to nowhere. No connectors for the junction box and about 1/3 of the wires that go to the junction box. I did buy a wire harness and installed it. Still doesn't have the terminations for the junction box but most things are there. I can get the motor to turn over and attempt to start but I don't have spark. The ignition system wires are there according to the schematic. Question is there something in the system that I would have to have to complete for a spark? Or is there a way to test the coils? I have new plugs and leads old coils but neither side is firing.

[gipsy42]

First of all, welcome to the forum.
Now about problems, you said to have the ignition wired per diagram, Ok, sure there is a way to check coils, but what setup do you have, points or Dyna ignition? Not mentioned so I suposse there are points.
What I use is one 15W bulb hooked up across the points, by turning the motor by hand (or priming open the points), when the point opens the lamp will burn, that will mean the coil has power.
Check other poin same way.
Removing the lamp; and hooking 1 spark plugs to each endcap loose over the motor, making sure it makes contact with block, cycling the point (open / close) they should fire.
Now at least we know the whole system is alive.
Have you correctly timed the points?
You have two points that must open 180° apart. It's a triky job, but doable.
Need more info?, just ask, lots of gurus in here.
Mario

[Stumped]

I took the plugs out and tested against the block. Nogo. I don't trust the wiring 100% but can read a schematic (was an aircraft mechanic) best I know it's all complete in that system. I know some systems are not put all together I don't know if there is an open loop that must be closed outside of ignition

[2wheelscram]

I suggest you start at the other end of the ignition system, the battery. Trace and confirm power at each of the components of the ignition circuit - 30 amp fuse, key switch, engine stop switch and neutral switch. Testing, swapping and replacing coils won't tell anything if any of these upstream components are faulty or improperly wired.

[Stumped]

Battery is new, 30 amp fuse is new, key switch is new. New as in not used off a worked when removed but new. Improper wiring could be, engine stop switch could be. I will look at it Monday. Changing coils for the sake of changing them is a bit suspect to me especially since neither side is firing. I think it is something simple but I don't know what.

[2wheelscram]

With a test light, confirm power at the ign terminal of the key switch when it is switched to ON. If any of the original wiring is still in place along with the new wire harness, that would be suspect to, but it should be easy to trace power at the output side of each of the ign circuit components.

When I had my CB750K, the key switch had crapped out and was only good for steering lock. I wired a simple on/off ignition toggle switch and mounted it inside the lockable side of the Vetter fairing.

[aussiegold]

here is a coil and ignition wiring diagram for the US model 1000. as said earlier , start at the beginning and work your way through. m

[Stumped]

I found the capacitor reading open. The documentation I found said it should read .24 MF. I ordered a new one from Z1 enterprise. Hopefully that takes care of me and this thing can get back on the road.

[Maz]

I found the capacitor reading open. The documentation I found said it should read .24 MF. I ordered a new one from Z1 enterprise. Hopefully that takes care of me and this thing can get back on the road.

What did you use to read the capacitor? If it was a resistance (ohm) meter, it will read open. You need a specific meter for capacitance measurement.
Maz

[Stumped]

I used a multi-meter capable of reading capacity.

[Maz]

I used a multi-meter capable of reading capacity.

Cool. No offence intended. You'd be surprised how many people test with ohmmeter and assume a capacitor that reads "0" must be bad! Are both capacitors open or just one side?
Maz

[Stumped]

Not offended at all. I don't mind any help or advice. Both sides read open. The capacitor also looked in bad shape.

[Maz]

Not offended at all. I don't mind any help or advice. Both sides read open. The capacitor also looked in bad shape.

Did you try opening and closing the points manually to check for spark at the plugs? You should still get a spark if the capacitors are open circuit. If they're shorted, you won't get a spark. The capacitors main purpose is to stop sparking across the points as they open and close, leading to burning/wear.
Maz

[Stumped]

No I did not. I will try that today with this original capacitor.

[Maz]

No I did not. I will try that today with this original capacitor.

If no spark, try again with the capacitor unplugged. Won't hurt but you may get some small sparking across the points. If still no spark, connect bulb or voltmeter across each set of points in turn. If coils are getting /passing volts, you will read it or bulb will light when points open. If no volts, test coil feed for volts with ignition and kill switch on. (Black/white wire). If you read volts there, check the blue and yellow wires coming out of coils.
Maz

[Stumped]

Couldn't get to it today. I will try all this tomorrow. Thanks for all the help

[W109driver]

What I use is one 15W bulb hooked up across the points, by turning the motor by hand (or priming open the points), when the point opens the lamp will burn, that will mean the coil has power.
Check other poin same way.
Removing the lamp;

How are you wiring this test lamp? I can't see where you would connect them?

How do you attach pics? Thanks.

[Maz]

What I use is one 15W bulb hooked up across the points, by turning the motor by hand (or priming open the points), when the point opens the lamp will burn, that will mean the coil has power.
Check other poin same way.
Removing the lamp;

How are you wiring this test lamp? I can't see where you would connect them?

How do you attach pics? Thanks.

One side of bulb to the moving point and one to the fixed point, or any ground.
Maz