Runs Great, but only on 2 Cylinders


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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GL_Steve
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:16 am
Location: Calgary, Ab
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000

Runs Great, but only on 2 Cylinders

Post by GL_Steve »



Went through the bike today; New belts, checked valve lash, verified spark/plugs/coils are good. Cylinders 1 and 3 are hot, 2 and 4 are cold. Verified that 2 and 4 will actually run and get the pipes hot by spraying gas into plenum.

I have ordered carb kits and guessing they will be here in a couple of weeks, well I can't wait that long.

Will I be able to re-seal the carbs with the original gaskets? I know there's always a chance I could tear something then I'd just have to wait anyway but I figure it is worth it just for the experience in tearing the carbs apart as a trial run and see what happens.. I'd at least like to drive it around enough to warm up the gear oil so I can change it.

Just had to polish the covers while they were off
Just had to polish the covers while they were off



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Maz
Posts: 785
Joined: Tue May 19, 2015 4:43 am
Location: Kent, UK
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000K1
1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
1990 Yamaha FJ1200
1993 Suzuki GS500E

Re: Runs Great, but only on 2 Cylinders

Post by Maz »

With all due respect, if you are not patient enough to wait for the carbs kits, I don't hold out much hope of you actually rebuilding the carbs successfully when the kits do arrive!
This is one job that MUST NOT be rushed.
Find some other jobs to do while you wait. The oil can be left to drain for a few days if necessary. It doesn't have to be hot-it just makes it drain faster. Slow down, relax and get the job done correctly.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!
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SnoBrdr
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:01 am
Location: Providence, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 1978 GL 1000

131K Original Owner

Re: Runs Great, but only on 2 Cylinders

Post by SnoBrdr »

Maz wrote:With all due respect, if you are not patient enough to wait for the carbs kits, I don't hold out much hope of you actually rebuilding the carbs successfully when the kits do arrive!
This is one job that MUST NOT be rushed.
Find some other jobs to do while you wait. The oil can be left to drain for a few days if necessary. It doesn't have to be hot-it just makes it drain faster. Slow down, relax and get the job done correctly.
Maz
Good idea.

Patience is often the greatest virtue with these old bikes.

The nut/bolt that won't come right out. Force it or use some chemical to help ease it out.

Kinda like the old wood working addage, measure twice, cut once.

I send my carbs out to PP just for these reasons. I knew I couldn't wait to do them and would do them improperly.
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dingdong
Posts: 4024
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Location: Oklahoma City
Motorcycle: 1976 gl1000
1993 gl1500A
2004 NRX1800 Rune SOLD

Re: Runs Great, but only on 2 Cylinders

Post by dingdong »

You are going to have to pull, disassemble, clean and adjust the carbs anyway. There is a lot of work that you can do ahead of time. Go ahead and pull and prep them in advance. Decide from there. What do you have to lose? Who knows you may have to order something else.
GL_Steve
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:16 am
Location: Calgary, Ab
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000

Re: Runs Great, but only on 2 Cylinders

Post by GL_Steve »

Maybe I will wait till the kits come. I do like to take my time with things like this and I'd rather do it on a saturday than start on a Sunday. I've rebuilt carbs before, perhaps not as enigmatic as the GW's carbs, but is has been a few years. I haven't put a screwdriver to these carbs yet except to put o-rings on the drain screws, and maybe it's a case of 'can't see the forest for the trees' but I don't see much in the way of adjustability while the carb assembly is still attached to the motor... and the Clymer book blows, IMHO. Like why does it say you have to pull the engine from the frame to lash the valves?

Something else to note is the bike came with a Dyna ignition system, in a box, removed from the bike. Had a quick look at it and saw "Dyna III" on it. Apparently the P.P.O. removed it because it did not resolve their problem and put back on the points ignition.

P.O. says he has the shop manual for the bike but it's on the other side of the country, he'll be going there and bringing it back in 6 months... but not holding much hope that I'll see it. Are there any write-ups on carb adjustment you fine folks know of with pics showing what and where and how much? I'd like to at least see if something is way out of whack. By the looks of the pipes, 1 and 3 have always ran, maybe a little hot, 2 sometimes ran and 4 probably never ran... still looks like fresh paint on 4's head pipe. Even the mufflers, 1,3 muffler paint is fully burnt off, 2,4 muffler most of the paint is there.


Maybe I'll just bash some metal into a new seat pan today and wait for the carb kits.

Is that shop manual from Helm linked to from this site worth the 25 bucks?


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