1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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unkle buckie
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL 1000

1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »



evenin' all... as the title would suggest, i'm having issues. key on, engine off, depress button - blip, blip, headlights dim, no deafening blast. engine running, hesitant blare getting stronger = good for a spin. upon my return, back to square blip, blip, one... took the handlebar switch off and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner - left over from replacing the points with new ones - still not 100% on how that worked out (an annoying occasional poot, poot makes me feel attempt no.4 at point setting is on the cards) and still nada.
i've been reading up on power drainage/fuel contamination etc to cover all the bases, but remain curious what the consenus of opinion is as to where to look first?
and just to confirm, i tried the 'split the difference' method on the points having read, re-read, and re-re-read the post concerned, but no matter advanced, retarded, or right in the middle base plate, the test light went off just before F1 on every crank revolution cycle... which would mean?

cheers in advance gang, i always appreciate the speedy wisdom influx from those more experienced than myself


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SnoBrdr
Posts: 784
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Location: Providence, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 1978 GL 1000

131K Original Owner

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by SnoBrdr »

unkle buckie wrote: Wed Jul 05, 2017 1:16 am evenin' all... as the title would suggest, i'm having issues. key on, engine off, depress button - blip, blip, headlights dim, no deafening blast. engine running, hesitant blare getting stronger = good for a spin. upon my return, back to square blip, blip, one... took the handlebar switch off and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner - left over from replacing the points with new ones - still not 100% on how that worked out (an annoying occasional poot, poot makes me feel attempt no.4 at point setting is on the cards) and still nada.
i've been reading up on power drainage/fuel contamination etc to cover all the bases, but remain curious what the consenus of opinion is as to where to look first?
and just to confirm, i tried the 'split the difference' method on the points having read, re-read, and re-re-read the post concerned, but no matter advanced, retarded, or right in the middle base plate, the test light went off just before F1 on every crank revolution cycle... which would mean?

cheers in advance gang, i always appreciate the speedy wisdom influx from those more experienced than myself
The engine should be running to blow the horn.

The horn needs a full 12v to work properly.
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virgilmobile
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Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
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83 GL1100 I
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84 GL 1200 I

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by virgilmobile »

Split the difference it hard to get a handle on.
I'll try to esplane it.
Top points first...gap them..rotate the crank and adjust the back plate so they open at the f mark.
Rotate the crank to the next f mark and adjust the bottom point gap so it sparks on that f mark.Don't move the back plate.
Easy enough...
Now using your feeler gauge measure each point gap at the widest opening.Turn the crank to open the points.
Usually you will find that they are different.
Now is the fun part.You have to be able to do math.
Example only...
The top points measure 0.16"(where you set them) and the bottom one measures 0.20".
Split the difference...0.18".
Now its time for a do-over...Start again but set the top point to the "split the difference" gap and reset the backplate so it sparks at the f mark.
When you set the bottom gap for the f mark it will magically end up with the same gap as the top one and spark on the f mark.
Now both points open on there f marks and the dwell or gap is the same.
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virgilmobile
Posts: 9088
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by virgilmobile »

Split the difference it hard to get a handle on.
I'll try to esplane it.
Top points first...gap them..rotate the crank and adjust the back plate so they open at the f mark.
Rotate the crank to the next f mark and adjust the bottom point gap so it sparks on that f mark.Don't move the back plate.
Easy enough...
Now using your feeler gauge measure each point gap at the widest opening.Turn the crank to open the points.
Usually you will find that they are different.
Now is the fun part.You have to be able to do math.
Example only...
The top points measure 0.16"(where you set them) and the bottom one measures 0.20".
Split the difference...0.18".
Now its time for a do-over...Start again but set the top point to the "split the difference" gap and reset the backplate so it sparks at the f mark.
When you set the bottom gap for the f mark it will magically end up with the same gap as the top one and spark on the f mark.
Now both points open on there f marks and the dwell or gap is the same.
unkle buckie
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL 1000

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »

thank you for the replies... uhm, not sure about the engine must be idling before the horn can be sounded. don't think that was ever a problem before the current fiasco. perhaps these are non standard by the p.o. ?


anyway, this afternoon the bike suddenly stopped idling. conked out completely, no dash lights, no plink. three 5amp fuses later i check the solenoid lead to the battery positive


and its disconnected from the little #8 ring... unfortunately by that stage all the lordco stores are closed, meaning, guess whats on tomorrow night's agenda?
unkle buckie
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL 1000

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »

as for the 'split the difference' routine, i can and i must give it another try ! thanks for the updated version. if i get this intermittent horn nonsense sorted, i'll be at it again this weekend, otherwise...
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Maz
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Location: Kent, UK
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000K1
1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
1990 Yamaha FJ1200
1993 Suzuki GS500E

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by Maz »

The horn should work perfectly without the engine running. Disconnect the horn and compare volts across the supply wires when you press the button, with battery voltage. It may just be a dodgy connection. It may also help to 'tweak' the adjustment screw on the horn itself.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!
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SnoBrdr
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Location: Providence, Rhode Island
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131K Original Owner

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by SnoBrdr »

Maz wrote: Thu Jul 06, 2017 4:50 am The horn should work perfectly without the engine running. Disconnect the horn and compare volts across the supply wires when you press the button, with battery voltage. It may just be a dodgy connection. It may also help to 'tweak' the adjustment screw on the horn itself.
Maz
Had the same issues and that's what the experts told me: https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... rn#p699085
unkle buckie
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Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
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Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »

there is no adjustment screw... not on the ones i have anyhoo - see above picture
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Maz
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Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000K1
1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
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1993 Suzuki GS500E

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by Maz »

unkle buckie wrote: Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:42 pm there is no adjustment screw... not on the ones i have anyhoo - see above picture
This would be the first electromagnetic horn I've seen that doesn't have one somewhere. However, to test if the horn itself is faulty, unplug it and connect it straight to a charged battery with a couple of bits of wire. If it sounds ok, you have a bad connection somewhere.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!
unkle buckie
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL 1000

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »

so the plot long-windedly thickens... re-connected my starter relay very gingerly with the new ring connector - not much wire/room left to play with after replacing that item last year - and with a new 5amp fuse in, turned the ignition. hurrah! headlight and gauges on, boo hiss, fuse blows... repeat the procedure with the horn switch lying asplay off the handlebar. same result, first 5amp blows again. so i think, why not, and go to start it without the fuse, and it starts perfectly...
it brings up a number of questions: i've tested continuity to both wires going in at the switch, and theres power to both without depressing the horn button - but how to disconnect the horn and test a fuse? both wires are soldered at the switch, and it will take a clock-makers screwdriver in there with no guarantee of loosening the screws, BUT, at the horn 2 wires go in to each via a little strip which seems pretty reluctant to easily pry out.
also, what else does this 5amp fuse regulate (i can't know until the horn is magically disconnected) and therefore is it 'safe' to ride without that fuse, or should i perhaps try a 10amp? haven't had time to plow through the manual for answers yet, but any knowledge on the topic would be more than welcomed
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SnoBrdr
Posts: 784
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Location: Providence, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 1978 GL 1000

131K Original Owner

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by SnoBrdr »

unkle buckie wrote: Fri Jul 07, 2017 8:18 am so the plot long-windedly thickens... re-connected my starter relay very gingerly with the new ring connector - not much wire/room left to play with after replacing that item last year - and with a new 5amp fuse in, turned the ignition. hurrah! headlight and gauges on, boo hiss, fuse blows... repeat the procedure with the horn switch lying asplay off the handlebar. same result, first 5amp blows again. so i think, why not, and go to start it without the fuse, and it starts perfectly...
it brings up a number of questions: i've tested continuity to both wires going in at the switch, and theres power to both without depressing the horn button - but how to disconnect the horn and test a fuse? both wires are soldered at the switch, and it will take a clock-makers screwdriver in there with no guarantee of loosening the screws, BUT, at the horn 2 wires go in to each via a little strip which seems pretty reluctant to easily pry out.
also, what else does this 5amp fuse regulate (i can't know until the horn is magically disconnected) and therefore is it 'safe' to ride without that fuse, or should i perhaps try a 10amp? haven't had time to plow through the manual for answers yet, but any knowledge on the topic would be more than welcomed
Never replace a fuse with a higher than original fuse unless you want to cook things.

I'm confused on where that 5 amp fuse that blew was located.

You should be able to just unplug the harness at the horn unless a PO replaced the wiring.
unkle buckie
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL 1000

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »

the fuse is located in the false tank fuse box, in there with a few others a 10 and a 15. i'm going to try haul the wire connection off the Mitsuba horns later this evening and replace the fuse and see if it blows again. incidently, googling mitsuba horns perhaps isn't the smartest idea when the missus is less than 10' away...
unkle buckie
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1979 GL 1000

Re: 1979 GL1000 intermittent horn...

Post by unkle buckie »

good news saturday - well for me anyway... took the solder to the starter relay connections, and to the cows nest that passed for wiring from the l/h handlebar switch, and vroom vroom, beep beep ! i may have sweat my weight in bullets this week at the thought of having to end my love affair with a 38yr old machine, but sometimes, just sometimes mind you, that characteristic stubborness of mine actually comes in usesful. for all the help, tips, and suggestions, i'm once again indebted. next, split timing, but first, a little spin is very much in order...

slainte !


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