No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.


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genhob
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No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:31 pm



1978 GL1000

I was fixing a loose wire on a taillight in the rear box and the running lights went out. Thought I blew a fuse, but they are look good. Running lights will work when key is in ACC but not when in ON position.

Checked voltage on running light fuse. No juice when key is in ON position, but 12 volts when in ACCC position.

Did I short something out in the key switch?



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Fred Camper
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by Fred Camper » Sat Oct 07, 2017 11:22 am

the Key witch gets old and sometimes looses contact. You can take it appart and clean them, or Emco makes a replacement. My bet is that is the issue. It really have too much current running through it. Several of us use an ignition relay to avoid high current through that switch.

genhob
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:16 pm

Finally got the bike dug out to work on again. Bought a new switch but that doesn't fix it.

Another other sympomts.
When turning on the turn signal; the turn light lamps turn on and stays on. No blinking.

I'm pouring over the wiring diagram trying to figure out the source of the problem.
https://www.classiccycles.org/media//DI ... ffe415.pdf

It appears the brown/white wires are not getting power. I remove the taillight fuse and can't get any voltage across the connection regardless of key position. It appears the orange/white wire should be bringing in the juice but I'm struggling to figure out where that comes from. The wiring diagram shows a block just before the starter switch and I'm confused on how that is connected in there.

With the taillight fuse removed and I apply 12 volts to just the one end; the taillight still doesn't come on.

If I bypass the switch and apply power to one of the brown/white wires the taillight works.

DaveO430
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by DaveO430 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 5:25 am

genhob wrote:
Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:16 pm
The wiring diagram shows a block just before the starter switch and I'm confused on how that is connected in there.

That block is a connector in the headlight bucket. It shows to have a jumper between the black wire and the blue/orange at that connector.

fatalbert
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by fatalbert » Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:38 am

Did you try a different fuse or just assume the one for the tail light looked OK? Fuses can look good but be open or have a high impedance. I dont think it is a coincidence that the light quit working after you fixed the loose wire. It would help to know which wire you were working on before the failure. Did the tail light work OK before you fixed the loose wire?

Also check the ground on the tail light for good contact.

Otherwise, disconnect the battery plus side and start looking for continuity from the key switch contact while in the on position to all the points in the diagram related to the tail light and turn signal points looking for an open. If you applied 12v to the correct side of the fuse contact and the tail light did not turn on, there is an open between the fuse and the tail light plus input.

Good luck.

genhob
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Fri Mar 23, 2018 1:30 pm

Thank you Dave.

In doing more troubleshooting, I noticed that I have 16-17 volts at the battery when bike is running. Did I blow the voltage regulator?

genhob
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:39 pm

Does anybody know if this replaces both the voltage regulator and the rectifier?
https://www.amazon.com/Areyourshop-Regu ... B00RB38GG4

DaveO430
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by DaveO430 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 5:23 pm

genhob wrote:
Fri Mar 23, 2018 1:30 pm
Thank you Dave.

In doing more troubleshooting, I noticed that I have 16-17 volts at the battery when bike is running. Did I blow the voltage regulator?
1st check that you have battery voltage at the black wire on the regulator and the green wires are well grounded.

genhob
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Fri Mar 23, 2018 7:30 pm

I disconnected the voltage regulator and still get 16-17 volts at the battery.

I connected a wire from the negative post of the battery to the green wire on the regulator. Still 16-17 volts to the battery.
I connected a wire from the positive post of the battery to the black wire on the regulator. Still 16-17 volts to the battery.

At rest the battery is 13+ volts.

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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by DenverWinger » Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:13 am

At rest battery should read around 12.5 volts, I suggest your volt meter may be out of calibration. Might consider picking up another meter, digital ones can be had new for around $10 these days...
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

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fatalbert
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by fatalbert » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:28 am

I think your meter is OK. Check your car battery if you think your meter is out of Cal as a reference. After charging at 16 or 17 VDC your battery will charge up to 13.5 V at rest and slowly degrade to close to 12.5V.

The voltage should be DC from the rectifier and you are seeing 16VDC. If you switch to AC mode on your meter, the voltage should not be much other than some ripple voltage, hopefully 50 to 100 mv AC. This will eventually cook your battery at this charge level, so I would be careful running the engine for very long.

I think the regulator has gone south so I would check it first but I would be concerned about what lead up to burning it out.

genhob
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Sat Mar 24, 2018 12:07 pm

Well 1 baby step of good news. I replaced the flasher relay with Napa #552. Blinkers work now. :-)
Now that the battery has calmed down from the overcharge; it is at 12.35 volts.

Anybody replaced the rectifier and regulator with a single unit?

Like this:
http://www.wingovations.com/regulator-r ... 4579471117

fatalbert
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by fatalbert » Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:00 pm

I would stick with OEM parts. You can buy a good used one on ebay for $20.

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Fred Camper
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by Fred Camper » Sun Mar 25, 2018 7:08 am

I used a regulator from a 2006 CBR600rr on my 1977 and it worked very well. Even the wire count was identical.

genhob
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by genhob » Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:49 pm

Just to give a final update on situation.

After much playing around discovered it was a blown fuse. ARRRRRRRG. I had pulled the fuse and examined it looked perfectly fine. It had a z style element in it and it looked fine from the "top", only when put on the side and looked very very closely could you see an every so slight gap. Sooo frustrating that it was such a simple problem that I had created so much work for myself.

So in the end,
New fuse,
New blinker module
New voltage regulator/rectifier unit.

Now to put it all back together....

fatalbert
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Location: seattle,wash,usa
Motorcycle: 1975 honda goldwing(2), 1962 CA77, 1979 CBX, 1966 BSA Lightning, 1966 Cb450 Bomber

Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by fatalbert » Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:49 pm

Lesson learned the hard way. Too bad you missed reading the first post I sent you.

Electrical issues are always more difficult to troubleshoot.

I'm glad you discovered your problem. Never do any wiring mods without first disconnecting the ground to the battery.

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AZgl1800
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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by AZgl1800 » Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:17 pm

Fuses are ALWAYS the best test with a Probe Light...

if the light burns on both sides, it is good.

no matter how fine the crack is, if it don't make contact, the Light Probe will not illuminate, ergo, a 'bad' fuse.


I just had to do this to my car, about 40 some odd fuses, and had no clue which one was the culprit. tap, tap, tap, ah!!! there it is
~John

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Re: No running rear light; but brake light works; All works with key in ACC position.

Post by WingAdmin » Wed Apr 04, 2018 12:28 pm

genhob wrote:
Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:49 pm
Just to give a final update on situation.

After much playing around discovered it was a blown fuse. ARRRRRRRG. I had pulled the fuse and examined it looked perfectly fine. It had a z style element in it and it looked fine from the "top", only when put on the side and looked very very closely could you see an every so slight gap. Sooo frustrating that it was such a simple problem that I had created so much work for myself.
I've done this too many times myself. I don't trust my eyes anymore, especially with glass fuses. Some are obviously blown, but I've had too many that looked perfectly fine, but were actually blown. I trust my multimeter. It's easy to check, you don't even have to pull the fuse. With the bike on and the circuit not functioning, measure voltage across the fuse. Measure 0 volts? Fuse is good. Measure more than 0 volts? Fuse is blown.



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