After getting my 1977 rebuild and still learning a thing or two I have discovered it has no condenser fitted! (Part next to battery)
Crazy as it sounds I have overlooked this. I think this may be why it has been not running as it should but it has been running but sluggish and hesitant at low RPM. (I had suspected the spark plugs as cause which I was intending to change)
The bike came in bits and most was in boxes, and I've luckily found two condensers which are identical (Blue and yellow wire) in a box that I over looked. I am unsure as how best to test so Can any one advise me on the following.
1. What symptoms will a bike show with a missing condenser?
2. What is the resistance of the condenser (ohm) so I can test them to see what one to fit.
Thanks
Cover the basics and the technical will follow easily.
You're lucky it runs at all.
Ignitions are not that finicky about condenser specs, so fit what you have and see what happens.
To test, as I was taught oh so many years back: using an analog volt-ohmmeter set to a resistance scale, touch the two leads, one to the body, the other to the condenser lead. The needle should pop up, and go back down. Do this the other war 'round (switch leads), and the needle should do the same. That's all the reading really necessary for a condenser to work in an ignition.
Il go fit it tomorrow and see how things work out.
The bike has electronic ignition fitted (Not Dyna) but look like standard coils. its a "Newtronic" electronic ignition.
Cover the basics and the technical will follow easily.
If you have electronic ignition, you don't use the condensers. That's probably why they were removed.
I fitted the Newtronic system to my 75 . It worked for about 6 months then I kept losing sparks to cylinders 1 and 2 when the engine got up to a decent temperature. If I removed the 'points'cover, it started working again. One of the optical sensors was failing when it got hot. I got a replacement sensor which worked, then the other one failed. I pulled the whole system off, put on a shelf in the garage and went back to points/condenser. Not had a problem since.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!
I may now consider also removing it and going back to its original points, I have also found these in a box.
Il need to study and find out how best to re wire it back to normal and try it as factory standard.
Cover the basics and the technical will follow easily.
The condensers keep the points from arcing during operation. It is just a simple capacitor that absorbs the higher voltage so it doesn't cross the point surfaces. It will run for a time , but the points will destroy themselves.
Spent tonight planning the removal. not as complex as first thought.
Il post up a video tomorow when I put the points all back in, and hopefully it runs better. or the carbs are off again to check.
Thankfully I have all the parts required.
Cover the basics and the technical will follow easily.
I removed the entire electronic ignition and fitted the stock points and condenser today. And WOW fired up no hesitation and all running perfect. I also recon my Newtronics ignition was failing and hence was not giving right timing to engine despite me having the timing spot on with a strobe light.
Went out for a run and the bikes simply as it now should be, seriously low end power amazing. I also put a better link earth to the condenser when fitting.
Any way thanks all for the advice heres a video if it helps others too.
Shammon, it sounds great! Sometimes it's worth reverting to 'old school '. I know some electronic ignitions are an improvement, but really, I'm more than happy to check and adjust points every once in a while if I'm repaid with a decent running engine.
I'm glad you got it sorted. Enjoy.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!
(Part next to battery)
