idle issues

[biker art]

My 75 GL1000 idles at 1000 and has plenty of power but will not return to idle. It goes up to 3000 rpm and stays there. Carbs are clean as is the gas. Could something be sticking or is it a needle problem? I've been messing around with this for quite a time and do need advice.

[redbug]

What have you been messing with? Have you had this problem for a while? Remember when this problem started? A little bit more information please?

[biker art]

This bike has been a basket case.I bought it 4 months ago for $750 and have put in all new parts in the carbs and am going to do the drive train. It had a Vetter fairing but was a wiring nightmare so I decided to go back to a naked stock setup. After getting 99% of the wiring fixed I worked on the carbs but they are a real PITA. Today I had it idling for 20 minutes at 1000 rpm real good until I ran it up to higher rpms an then it won't settle down. It wants to stay at around 3000 rpm. It runs good at highway speed and has plenty of power.Just the idle problem. The choke is not sticking either. All the slides are free to move easily.

[redbug]

Check for vacuums leaks on manifolds linkage shafts and where air might enter by spraying carburetor cleaner around those areas. Are you sure no bind in linkage and throttle cables are completely to the idle stop screw. Be sure and sync the carburetors. Let us know..

[redbug]

Over at randakks there is list of problems on the 75 models and how to repair and lots of info. How about a report of some kind, been chasing you on three different threads trying to keep up.

[biker art]

Totally frustrated with this. Today I pulled the carbs and looked at the slides an they look ok and looked in the float bowls and it seemed to be working good,didn't remove anything since setting the float height a few weeks ago. All new jet were installed at that time. later after reinstalling the carbs it was running on three cyl. an idle speed was up an down from 1000 to 3000 rpm. I was standing outside the garage while it was idling around 1000 an then it went up to 3000. I was not even near the bike. I finally shut it off and left. This has been going on for three months and I guess I'll have to get a rebuilder for the carbs. I even tried the single VW solex with a new manifold and that was a lost cause. It was running way too rich and would idle but not run on the road at operating speeds. Getting tired of messing with it.

[Fred Camper]

Mike Nixon wrote a booklet on rebuilding these carbs and Randell Washington (Randakk) produced an excellent video. Using those tools and a Randakk carb kit, my first carb rebuild went perfect and the carbs on that bike remain working perfectly today.

[AZgl1800]

Mike Nixon wrote a booklet on rebuilding these carbs and Randell Washington (Randakk) produced an excellent video. Using those tools and a Randakk carb kit, my first carb rebuild went perfect and the carbs on that bike remain working perfectly today.

Would you mind showing us the links to those ?

I keep bookmarks on things like that.

[redbug]

Mike Nixon wrote a booklet on rebuilding these carbs and Randell Washington (Randakk) produced an excellent video. Using those tools and a Randakk carb kit, my first carb rebuild went perfect and the carbs on that bike remain working perfectly today.

Would you mind showing us the links to those ?

I keep bookmarks on things like that.

Just type in Randakks and Mike Nixon . Computer problems here.

[cfairweather]

You mentioned that the bike was running on three cylinders which is key in solving this issue. I think you have plugged or partially plugged Idle Discharge Port Jet. This is the small tube that sticks up in the venturi near the butterfly. The passage in this tube is tiny and these often become plugged. This passage is easy to overlook when you rebuild the carbs and the result is a "dead" cylinder at idle. Sometimes you can clean them out without removing the carbs. To try this, remove the idle air screws. Pour some gasoline or cleaner into the idle air screw hole. Then get your air compressor fired up and attach a rubber tipped nozzle to your compressor hose. Insert the rubber tip into the air screw hole and blow air while listening carefully. You may hear a difference when air gets through the idle discharge tube. Do this on all four carbs and then reinstall your air screws. Be sure to adjust the air screw to the appropriate number of turns out for your specific carb model number.

[biker art]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Right now it's running better an I'll do some more tuning on it an see how it goes.

[RBGERSON]

You said you replaced the jets with new ones..aftermarket jets are known to be sized incorrectly..could be your issue..otherwise..as said..cable binding due to routing or gummed up inside, vacuum leaks, dirty/binding slide issues will cause rpm's to remain high.

[biker art]

Everything was cleaned right off at first. The cable was the first thing cleaned an oiled an slides very easy as does the linkage. I suspect vacuum leaks but it's running good right now after float readjustment.