New in the GL world. A few things if anyone has any input.

[JASONSMITH]

I recently purchased a '77 GL1000 and it is pretty decent. There are a few things, however that I am unfamiliar with and would like to know if anyone has ideas or input or has dealt with this stuff before. I love the classic Hondas ever since I acquired my grandfather's '75 CB360T. This one seems like it's a great bike, as long as all is in order.

I have done a little bit of research in the last couple days since I bought it, but I like to have real input as well as reading articles and forums from others, especially when it comes to specific problems I am having.

First thing, the bike has some issues with running... It starts up just fine, but sometimes it idles a little rough, and other times, it idles just fine. And sometimes it will be sitting, idling, and just die. Timing maybe off? The previous owner said that it was all recently adjusted properly.
Second thing, when out riding it around, it runs alright, then when I slow to a stop, putting it in neutral or engaging the clutch, when the RPM goes down, it'll just die. Most likely the same issue as my previous comment. Just wondering if anyone has ideas on troubleshooting and diagnosing this specifically.
Third thing, when riding, the front fork is turning to the right just slightly. When I let go of the bars, the bike leans to the left (as per counter steer). I eyeballed around and none of the components or the fork appear bent. I read that there are certain specifications when mounting the front wheel and calipers, maybe this has something to do with it?
Fourth thing, the tach moves, but not much and very slowly. It is quite obviously not accurate and I would like it to be. I briefly read a couple things about this issue and will read more. But if any would like to comment, I always welcome information!

ALSO my throttle sticks a bit, but it doesn't seem to be the cable or the handle. It seems to be the rods on the carbs. Should I just lube those a little or is there something more that I need to do by disassembling it?

I appreciate any input! I look forward to getting this thing in better order to enjoy the cruise.

Thanks all!

[ekvh]

Idle issues sound like carb/ fuel to me. Look in the plenum through the air filter cover. It should be dry. If wet, you could have a leaking plenum half gasket, or carb-to-plenum seals, or more often maladjusted or leaking floats. It is pretty important to turn the fuel off at the petcock all the time. These carbs have no vent and can fill the elbows or a cylinder with fuel. Try to start it and you can bend a rod.

As to your front end issues. Try loosening everything and re-tightening by the book. Order is pretty important to avoid wobble. Pulling one way can also be forks which aren’t equal length at the triple tree. 1/32” makes a difference on my 77’s. Most people just make the caps flush with the top triple tree. If you choose to lower the front a little by sliding them up in the trees, measure each side to be sure they’re equal.

If you haven’t found Randakks site yet and his tech blog articles, do so. He has a myriad of good advice and was one of the first to get it online for free.
He has the sequence for tightening the front end down.
http://www.randakksblog.com

[virgilmobile]

My 1000 had running issues.
I found that the OEM floats we're absorbing fuel and sinking in the bowl increasing the fuel level.
I removed the floats and coated 3 times with polyurethane and let dry for a couple of days.
Reset the height properly to stop the changing fuel levels.
The carbs we're also meticulous cleaned and the slides polished and vacuum verified that they don't stick.
A proper sync to the engine and idle down adjustments finished the running problems.
Changing to electronic ignition and a electric fuel pump greatly improved starting and reliability overall.
Good compression and no more than 5 psi difference is preferable.Above 120psi is ok.
Valve adjustments are always a needed thing every 10-20k miles.
Don't forget to replace the timing belts too.

[JASONSMITH]

Idle issues sound like carb/ fuel to me. Look in the plenum through the air filter cover. It should be dry. If wet, you could have a leaking plenum half gasket, or carb-to-plenum seals, or more often maladjusted or leaking floats. It is pretty important to turn the fuel off at the petcock all the time. These carbs have no vent and can fill the elbows or a cylinder with fuel. Try to start it and you can bend a rod.

As to your front end issues. Try loosening everything and re-tightening by the book. Order is pretty important to avoid wobble. Pulling one way can also be forks which aren’t equal length at the triple tree. 1/32” makes a difference on my 77’s. Most people just make the caps flush with the top triple tree. If you choose to lower the front a little by sliding them up in the trees, measure each side to be sure they’re equal.

If you haven’t found Randakks site yet and his tech blog articles, do so. He has a myriad of good advice and was one of the first to get it online for free.
He has the sequence for tightening the front end down.
http://www.randakksblog.com

Thanks! Will take the front apart and reassemble to spec and see if anything changes.

The petcock was left on for a while and may have caused an issue.. Occasionally when starting, the engine will stop and not turn with the starter. I have to manually turn and it is free to start.. I am guessing this is the rod issue?

[JASONSMITH]

My 1000 had running issues.
I found that the OEM floats we're absorbing fuel and sinking in the bowl increasing the fuel level.
I removed the floats and coated 3 times with polyurethane and let dry for a couple of days.
Reset the height properly to stop the changing fuel levels.
The carbs we're also meticulous cleaned and the slides polished and vacuum verified that they don't stick.
A proper sync to the engine and idle down adjustments finished the running problems.
Changing to electronic ignition and a electric fuel pump greatly improved starting and reliability overall.
Good compression and no more than 5 psi difference is preferable.Above 120psi is ok.
Valve adjustments are always a needed thing every 10-20k miles.
Don't forget to replace the timing belts too.

Yes, I hear the carbs are quite the job to deal with and maintain. The previous owner says that the carbs were cleaned within the last 5 months, but I'm not so sure... My floats may be doing that same thing. Is that a common problem with the GL1000? I just really don't want to dig in to the carbs, but if I must, I must.

What do you think about single carb conversions? I have heard that some people say they are great. Others say that the original 4 setup is better as long as you keep it all maintained.

[virgilmobile]

Single carb conversion is ok but you get better preformance from the quad carbs.
Yes they are tough to get right but once done they last a very long time.Dirty air contaminates them as well as nasty fuel.
Fresh filters are a must.
You can prove out the floats first before mucking with them...Mine we're black...
I let them air dry for a day...Filled a container with gas and let one float in it looking at how much was submerged...Several hours later I saw that submersed deeper in the fuel..The next day they had dropped into the fuel almost a quarter of a inch...
I dried them again and they refloated back normal again.
That's when I coated them real good...I tested this again...2 days and they stayed in the same place.
Alignment of the floats is very specific..
They must be level side to side and measured with the "tang" just resting on the needle valve spring plunger..not compressing it..Get the floats exactly right..Don't be off by even a millimeter.
The slides must be butter smooth in operation.I use a shop vac on each carb to simulate the engine..operate the throttle and watch each slide work.
I do also mechanically set each throttle plate so they open at exactly the same time..This saves time when you sync it to the engine.