GL1000 starting system

[ntintruder]

I put an engine in a GL1000, Before installing the engine I changed the neutral indicator switch which was badly corroded. I left the wire from the switch unconnected to the indicator light and tried the starter with the bike in neutral. Nothing happened so I then hooked the indicator switch to the instrument panel .the green light came on and when I tried the starter it whipped the engine over just fine. I thought that the neutral indicator did nothing except tell when you were in neutral. Also, when you pull the clutch in shouldn't the starter work even if you aren't in neutral? This one won't work unless the trans is in neutral with the green light on. I know a lot more about the 750s than Goldwings so maybe somebody can help me out with this.

[WingAdmin]

I put an engine in a GL1000, Before installing the engine I changed the neutral indicator switch which was badly corroded. I left the wire from the switch unconnected to the indicator light and tried the starter with the bike in neutral. Nothing happened so I then hooked the indicator switch to the instrument panel .the green light came on and when I tried the starter it whipped the engine over just fine. I thought that the neutral indicator did nothing except tell when you were in neutral. Also, when you pull the clutch in shouldn't the starter work even if you aren't in neutral? This one won't work unless the trans is in neutral with the green light on. I know a lot more about the 750s than Goldwings so maybe somebody can help me out with this.

The neutral switch does two things:

- Lights up the light on the dash
- Prevents the starter from actuating if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in

If the engine is not turning over even if you pull the clutch in, then the neutral start diode is failed. This is a common failure, and a simple fix:

Neutral safety diode

When it fails shorted, you'll know because every time you pull your clutch in, your neutral light will come on. When it fails open, you'll know because the bike will not start in neutral unless you pull the clutch in. In either case, replacing it fixes the problem. They look like this, but can be replaced with any common modern silicon diode - a 10 amp diode would likely be more than enough.

Diodes

[DaveO430]

The neutral switch does two things:

- Lights up the light on the dash
- Prevents the starter from actuating if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in

If the engine is not turning over even if you pull the clutch in, then the neutral start diode is failed. This is a common failure, and a simple fix:

Diode.gif

When it fails shorted, you'll know because every time you pull your clutch in, your neutral light will come on. When it fails open, you'll know because the bike will not start in neutral unless you pull the clutch in. In either case, replacing it fixes the problem. They look like this, but can be replaced with any common modern silicon diode - a 10 amp diode would likely be more than enough.

Diodes.jpg

Your diagram says the clutch switch circuit will work without the diode.

[WingAdmin]

The neutral switch does two things:

- Lights up the light on the dash
- Prevents the starter from actuating if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in

If the engine is not turning over even if you pull the clutch in, then the neutral start diode is failed. This is a common failure, and a simple fix:

Diode.gif

When it fails shorted, you'll know because every time you pull your clutch in, your neutral light will come on. When it fails open, you'll know because the bike will not start in neutral unless you pull the clutch in. In either case, replacing it fixes the problem. They look like this, but can be replaced with any common modern silicon diode - a 10 amp diode would likely be more than enough.

Diodes.jpg

Your diagram says the clutch switch circuit will work without the diode.

Correct. There are several types of starter interlock failure I have seen on our bikes (I actually experienced 2 of these 4 on my GL1100 at different times)

- Diode fails shorted: Neutral light comes on when clutch pulled in OR bike is in neutral
- Diode fails open: Neutral light operates normally, bike will not start in neutral unless clutch is pulled in, bike will start in gear with clutch pulled in
- Clutch switch fails closed: Neutral light operates normally, bike will start in gear or in neutral even if clutch isn't pulled in
- Clutch switch fails open: Bike will ONLY start in neutral

[DaveO430]

If the engine is not turning over even if you pull the clutch in, then the neutral start diode is failed. This is a common failure, and a simple fix:

I was referring to this statement, which is wrong.

[DaveO430]

I put an engine in a GL1000, Before installing the engine I changed the neutral indicator switch which was badly corroded. I left the wire from the switch unconnected to the indicator light and tried the starter with the bike in neutral. Nothing happened so I then hooked the indicator switch to the instrument panel .the green light came on and when I tried the starter it whipped the engine over just fine. I thought that the neutral indicator did nothing except tell when you were in neutral. Also, when you pull the clutch in shouldn't the starter work even if you aren't in neutral? This one won't work unless the trans is in neutral with the green light on. I know a lot more about the 750s than Goldwings so maybe somebody can help me out with this.

The obvious problem is the clutch switch or it's wiring.

[WingAdmin]

If the engine is not turning over even if you pull the clutch in, then the neutral start diode is failed. This is a common failure, and a simple fix:

I was referring to this statement, which is wrong.

oops, you're right. Guess I shouldn't write answers to electrical questions at 10:30 pm after working a 12 hour day.

[ntintruder]

Thanks for all the info, especially the wiring schematic. I disconnected the two wires, green and green/red at the clutch lever and did a continuity check with an ohmmeter and got nothing with the clutch lever in or out. I'm assuming that I should have continuity with the clutch pulled in?

[WingAdmin]

Thanks for all the info, especially the wiring schematic. I disconnected the two wires, green and green/red at the clutch lever and did a continuity check with an ohmmeter and got nothing with the clutch lever in or out. I'm assuming that I should have continuity with the clutch pulled in?

That's correct, sounds like your clutch switch is bad.