GL 1000 77

[Wingersparty]

Hello,

Im the new guy here, first post about first GL .
Just purchased 1977 GL 1000. Its runner but it needs some love. Long story short i was looking for some winter project an this guy offered me to sell his gl. He had it for 13 years and he was driving it every season. Just last two years it was standing because the guy got new bike. He was true biker so it looks like the bike is well maintained.
It has some strange headlight with some diy brackets that needs to go and the rear fender is also painted black. The speedometer doesn't work and engine needs new valve stem sealings and new belts.
My plan is to find missing original parts, and fix the bike and then ride it this summer. Next winter will see, maybe ill turn it in to a project (caferacer or scrambler) or something else. The very first thing i did was i swaped the handlebars. I purchased a lower handlebars and installed them at first day. I didn't like the looks of original handlebars at all. Now it's more my taste and i can resume with the project. Now I need to find some shorter cables.
I signed up here to get some advice and share the information.
At first i thought that it will be easy task to find original parts but what a joke... I have spent many nights online ( wife is getting suspicious already ha ha ha) looking for headlight brackets and rear fender in reasonable price with no luck. Most of them are sold in the US, but id like to find something from EU.
Any suggestions where to look?

So that's how the story began...

[JimJones117]

Welcome! I just purchased a 1975 GL1000 and she has been sitting at least 5 years in a barn. Starting a restoration and guessing it is going to take a couple of years. Good luck on your project!

Jim

[rudolphwolven]

@ Wingersparty,

This Dutch company (see bottom picture, which stupidly multiplicates itself) has a lot of new and used parts for the GL1000; they are not the cheapest (prices incl 21% VAT), but have an enormous parts stock, are reliable and ship worldwide...........
Bikers Best link: https://goldwing.nl/en/shop/gl-1000-used-parts

A German link: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-sei ... gl-1000/k0

A Dutch link of a international operating cy with a very large stock of new, mostly OEM parts (prices excl 21% VAT): https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1000-gold ... HnywIhKhPY

Another local Dutch link (prices incl.21% VAT): https://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query ... distance=0

I wish you good luck!

My own renovated (by myself / 1200 hours) 1975 GL1000 K1

[Wingersparty]

@ Wingersparty,

This Dutch company (see bottom picture, which stupidly multiplicates itself) has a lot of new and used parts for the GL1000; they are not the cheapest (prices incl 21% VAT), but have an enormous parts stock, are reliable and ship worldwide...........
Bikers Best link: https://goldwing.nl/en/shop/gl-1000-used-parts

A German link: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-sei ... gl-1000/k0

A Dutch link of a international operating cy with a very large stock of new, mostly OEM parts (prices excl 21% VAT): https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1000-gold ... HnywIhKhPY

Another local Dutch link (prices incl.21% VAT): https://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query ... distance=0

I wish you good luck!

My own renovated (by myself / 1200 hours) 1975 GL1000 K1

IMG_20150927_170835.thumb.jpg.4c5c0fe422a47a32eca35d3d0dd46979.jpg

Thank you Sir!! This is so helpful information!
And i must say WOW, you have very beautiful GL. Are those low handlebars stock or aftermarket? How did you solve the problem with the throttle and clutch cables? Is it possible to buy shorter cables or do you made them shorter yourself?

[Wingersparty]

This is my bike the first day i brought her home. its 77' so is it K1, K2 or...?

I have looked at many photos online and i have noticed that some models has longer rear fender some has shorter. Whas there a different types of fenders on those models?

[rudolphwolven]

Congratulation with your beautiful Goldwing!!!......'77 is a K2......
My '75 GL1000 K1 was originally equipped with low handlebars and a long rear fender (plus mudflap).
GW's for Europe incl UK were equipped with long rear fenders and mostly low bars.....for the USA always short fenders and high bars.
My short rear fender was mounted because I liked it........I still have the original long one.
Going from high to low handlebars you also need a set of "short" cables.....shortening yourself is difficult ; you better purchase them somewhere 2nd hand.
The position of the rear orange direction indicators on my GL1000 was the Dutch version.........you have the German version; could be your GW was transported from Germany to Estonia (look pictures for the difference in mounting location)
Your muffler is not original/OEM........
The OEM mufflers in my opinion are the most characteristic for the GW and also preferred by their beautiful typical moderate "flat boxer sound".
Good 2nd hand mufflers are expensive.... welded/repaired € 300,- to unwelded/unrepaired €700,-
New stainless steel imitation mufflers from the UK (very,very nice OEM look) cost approx. € 2000,-.
New OEM mufflers are extremely difficult to find; there are now only approx 3-5 pcs. worldwide and cost cpl. with side covers and mounting parts approx. €4.000,-.
I found a new OEM one a couple of years ago and purchased it immediately for € 1150,-.
Most parts for the GL1000 are worldwide still 2nd hand available; new parts however become more and more difficult available; some new ones are non-available any more.......a couple of important parts are hardly available as muffler, OEM seats, good rear shock absorbers etc, etc.
Your rear shock absorbers are after market as well as both rear mirrors mounted on the high bars.
Best regards, Ruud

[Wingersparty]

Now im starting to see the differences. I didnt know that different setups were sold in different markets. My bike is originally from Sweden.
The more i investigate and get to know with the bike the less i want to build a caferacer or smth like that. It should remain close to originaal condition. Low bars, short fender and It will be a nice clean rider.

[rudolphwolven]

I have the same opinion.
Keeping the bike as it was will save the exclusive and characteristic shape of the GW.
Caferacers etc. never can be as nice and authentic as the original model which also keeps its value better as when modified in some caferacer etc.

[SnoBrdr]

Now im starting to see the differences. I didnt know that different setups were sold in different markets. My bike is originally from Sweden.
The more i investigate and get to know with the bike the less i want to build a caferacer or smth like that. It should remain close to originaal condition. Low bars, short fender and It will be a nice clean rider.

If you need an exhaust, look into putting on a set of Harley mufflers.

Here, USA, they can be bought, new for less than 50 USD.

I have them on my bike even tho I have an almost brand new OEM setup on hand.

Very easy to install.

They aren't OEM of course but will save you a fortune.

Since nobody mentioned changing the timing belts, that's the first thing that you should do.

These are interference engines, you break a belt, you break the motor.

Also, pick up a Honda Factory Service manual. You will need it.

Some parts are interchangeable with auto parts, the belts for example, but there are many others.

[Wingersparty]

If you need an exhaust, look into putting on a set of Harley mufflers.

Here, USA, they can be bought, new for less than 50 USD.

I have them on my bike even tho I have an almost brand new OEM setup on hand.

Very easy to install.

They aren't OEM of course but will save you a fortune.

Since nobody mentioned changing the timing belts, that's the first thing that you should do.

These are interference engines, you break a belt, you break the motor.

Also, pick up a Honda Factory Service manual. You will need it.

Some parts are interchangeable with auto parts, the belts for example, but there are many others.

What model Harley do you mean?

Actually "change the belts" was the first lesson i learned when i entered in to GL world and i mentioned it in my first post but thanks anyways for reminding.
I ordered Honda shop manual from ebay and hopefully will be in postbox next week. I downloaded a copy also but i find that paper is better than pixels

[SnoBrdr]

If you need an exhaust, look into putting on a set of Harley mufflers.

Here, USA, they can be bought, new for less than 50 USD.

I have them on my bike even tho I have an almost brand new OEM setup on hand.

Very easy to install.

They aren't OEM of course but will save you a fortune.

Since nobody mentioned changing the timing belts, that's the first thing that you should do.

These are interference engines, you break a belt, you break the motor.

Also, pick up a Honda Factory Service manual. You will need it.

Some parts are interchangeable with auto parts, the belts for example, but there are many others.

What model Harley do you mean?

Actually "change the belts" was the first lesson i learned when i entered in to GL world and i mentioned it in my first post but thanks anyways for reminding.
I ordered Honda shop manual from ebay and hopefully will be in postbox next week. I downloaded a copy also but i find that paper is better than pixels

Any model HD will work, I have Sportsters on mine.

[who444444]

sportster mufflers on my 76. But certainly not a OEM replacement. If you are going for clean stock, stay with originals. Me, not stock.

[Wingersparty]

Are those brackets welded later for sidecar or were they mounted already in factory?

[SnoBrdr]

Are those brackets welded later for sidecar or were they mounted already in factory?

Not factory that I've ever seen.

[landisr]

Definitely welded on as a sidecar mount.

[Wingersparty]

I should be able to finish with the tear down this weekend. As always im two steps ahead with my thoughts. I cant figure out what to do with the frame, should i powder coat it or wet paint (is this a right word?) it? For me powder coat paint looks like a paint that you use to paint garden stuff or steel structures or tools... But looking at others projects PC is used alot. What do you think is it worth considering?
Second and more annoying thing is that i contacted to PO and asked about the brackets that are welded to frame and he told that he tried to install the sidecar and made the brackets. Two in front as seen in picture and one in back. The two that are higer are no big deal just to grind them off but the lower one is drilled trough the frame tubing. To eliminate that i need to find a good skilled welder/ mechanic. Just another extra obstacle in project....
And third thing- the carbs... The bike ran ok before teardown. At least to my ear. What should I do with the carbs? Is there anything I should be looking at just for precaution "since the engine is out". Im asking because this is the thing i know least about and im kinda affraid to touch it. I know how carbs work in principle but i read that the carbs on GL are tricky or complex...

[SnoBrdr]

I should be able to finish with the tear down this weekend. As always im two steps ahead with my thoughts. I cant figure out what to do with the frame, should i powder coat it or wet paint (is this a right word?) it? For me powder coat paint looks like a paint that you use to paint garden stuff or steel structures or tools... But looking at others projects PC is used alot. What do you think is it worth considering?
Second and more annoying thing is that i contacted to PO and asked about the brackets that are welded to frame and he told that he tried to install the sidecar and made the brackets. Two in front as seen in picture and one in back. The two that are higer are no big deal just to grind them off but the lower one is drilled trough the frame tubing. To eliminate that i need to find a good skilled welder/ mechanic. Just another extra obstacle in project....
And third thing- the carbs... The bike ran ok before teardown. At least to my ear. What should I do with the carbs? Is there anything I should be looking at just for precaution "since the engine is out". Im asking because this is the thing i know least about and im kinda affraid to touch it. I know how carbs work in principle but i read that the carbs on GL are tricky or complex...

A lot of people do PC but it'snot cheap.

You could paint it your self and the key to a good paint job is prep.

Good prep, the job probably comes out great.

Bad prep, well you see where this is going.

GL carbs are not for the faint at heart.

Having them done by a pro is probably up to $500 now.

It's money well spent but it is a lot of $$.

I had mine done several years ago and was the 2nd best $$ I've spent onthe bike since I bought it.

[Maz]

And third thing- the carbs... The bike ran ok before teardown. At least to my ear. What should I do with the carbs? Is there anything I should be looking at just for precaution "since the engine is out". Im asking because this is the thing i know least about and im kinda affraid to touch it. I know how carbs work in principle but i read that the carbs on GL are tricky or complex......

The carbs seem quite scary, but, if you are logical in your approach, have a decent rebuild kit (Randakks) and, if you have any doubts in your own ability, buy Randakks rebuild dvd, you're good to go. I've rebuilt 2 sets now with no drama.
Maz

[Wingersparty]

The carbs seem quite scary, but, if you are logical in your approach, have a decent rebuild kit (Randakks) and, if you have any doubts in your own ability, buy Randakks rebuild dvd, you're good to go. I've rebuilt 2 sets now with no drama.
Maz

Thanks, i tend to think that id like to do this job by my self, otherwise i dont learn it, so i need to order the kit BUT GL1000 master carb kit is out of stock

[Old Fogey]

GL1000 carbs are the bikes Achiles Heel. When right they are the best, but since they are now 40 odd years old, with who knows what previous owners have done and running modern fuel with ethanol which can cause corrosion of the jet towers inside the float bowls, rebuilding them can be a fraught process if you are new to it. There are many little quirks to them that to be aware of need some knowledge.

Have a go by all means; that's how we all got the knowledge in the first place, but if you change your mind or get stuck, maybe I can help.

http://www.wingovations.com/carb-rebuilds/4579471064

[Wingersparty]

GL1000 carbs are the bikes Achiles Heel. When right they are the best, but since they are now 40 odd years old, with who knows what previous owners have done and running modern fuel with ethanol which can cause corrosion of the jet towers inside the float bowls, rebuilding them can be a fraught process if you are new to it. There are many little quirks to them that to be aware of need some knowledge.

Have a go by all means; that's how we all got the knowledge in the first place, but if you change your mind or get stuck, maybe I can help.

http://www.wingovations.com/carb-rebuilds/4579471064

Thanks, i might consider that option. But first i must solve next big problem. Yesterday i got my compression tester and did a quick test. Removed the plugs and cranked the engine (kick-start) and the readings were 90 in 1, 2, 4 and in 3rd i couldn't get proper reading because i was already frustrated and gave up. Will do the test today again with fresh battery. So now i know that i have a toasted engine... what a rookie mistake!!
This doesn't mean that i will abandon the project but damn who said its going to be easy Ill take the engine to mechanic just to get the proper diagnose and will go from there.
As i already read the easiest would be to find a new engine but its quite impossible in my homeland. Maybe ill find something from Finland or Sweden. So offers are welcome

[Maz]

GL1000 carbs are the bikes Achiles Heel. When right they are the best, but since they are now 40 odd years old, with who knows what previous owners have done and running modern fuel with ethanol which can cause corrosion of the jet towers inside the float bowls, rebuilding them can be a fraught process if you are new to it. There are many little quirks to them that to be aware of need some knowledge.

Have a go by all means; that's how we all got the knowledge in the first place, but if you change your mind or get stuck, maybe I can help.

http://www.wingovations.com/carb-rebuilds/4579471064

Thanks, i might consider that option. But first i must solve next big problem. Yesterday i got my compression tester and did a quick test. Removed the plugs and cranked the engine (kick-start) and the readings were 90 in 1, 2, 4 and in 3rd i couldn't get proper reading because i was already frustrated and gave up. Will do the test today again with fresh battery. So now i know that i have a toasted engine... what a rookie mistake!!
This doesn't mean that i will abandon the project but damn who said its going to be easy Ill take the engine to mechanic just to get the proper diagnose and will go from there.
As i already read the easiest would be to find a new engine but its quite impossible in my homeland. Maybe ill find something from Finland or Sweden. So offers are welcome

Don't write the engine off yet. The fact that all the compressions are equal is a good sign. You must spin the engine on the starter with the throttle wide open to get a proper compression reading.

Maz

[Wingersparty]

So i have striped the frame, cut off the sidecar mounts. One lower frame tube needs welding and repair because of the additional bracket that was welded on the frame.

My frame is missing the aluminium vin plate. The rivets are there (i think they are for vin plate) but the plate itself is missing. The frame number is press stamped in steering head tube (?). Can you guys show me how does the correct 1977 vin plate looks like and where is the correct place to install it.

Ill try to add pics later.

Thanks

[Old Fogey]

It depends on where your bike came from. If it's an original UK/Euro bike, the VIN plate is normally rivetted the right side down tube beside the radiator.
On an imported US bike it would be rivetted to the steering head.
I have pictures on my PC but can't think how to post them without them being hosted somewhere.

Ok, I found a way:
http://www.wingovations.com/vin-plates/4594568872

[Wingersparty]

The rivets are on the right frame tube besides the radiator. The bike was imported to my country from Sweden.
Well there is a a little amount of uncertainty regarding to the area code. In registration documents it says that the bike is 1977. So it should be K2 right? But the numbers are:

Frame GL1-203XX36
Engine GL1E-203XX68
and the carb is 775B

So does this means it is a type GL1 and actually 76`? According to this: http://www.randakksblog.com/gl1000-vin- ... explained/

And i cant figure it out what was the original setup of my bike. a) High handlebars short rear fender? b) High handlebars long rear fender? c) Low handlebars long rear fender? d)Low handlebars short rear fender?
My goal is to restore this so i can have a vintage motorcycle registration number one day and to get that the bike should be as close to factory condition as it can be.