Stator removal from rear housing


Information and questions on GL1000 Goldwings (1975-1979)
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Saltspringer
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:33 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 in Antares Red

Stator removal from rear housing

Post by Saltspringer » Tue Jan 14, 2020 9:29 pm



I now have two GL1000 engines on my bench; a higher mileage, slightly smokey, example with an as-yet undiagnosed rattle, and a lower mileage GL1000 replacement.

I am carefully taking the high mileage example apart to get to know my way around the engine, everything I remove I will inspect and carefully store away as spares. In the lower mileage engine I am planning to replace the primary chain tensioner, stator, and water pump, before refitting in my 1976 frame.

The question I have is how do you physically remove the stator ring from the rear engine housing? I have taken out the three securing bolts and assume that the actual stator it is an interference fit onto the housing.


I don't want to get too physical with it and damage something, is there a trick to freeing it off without bending or cracking something? I need to take it out because the wiring insulation has cracked where it exits the casing, in the black plastic plug. I believe that there may have been a short here. The white wiring loom plug is melted at one terminal and I had to break it apart to separate the wiring when I removed the engine. Can I assume the stator survived this short? I will cut and remove this plug when the bike is being put back together...


Any advice is much appreciated!


1946 Norton Model 18, 500cc single
1946 Harley WL45 Flathead
1960 BMW R60/2
1972 BMW R60/5
1973 Norton Commando
1976 Honda GL1000
1981 Moto Morini 500

1960 Triumph TR3A sports car, in many boxes.....

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DenverWinger
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1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
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1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: Stator removal from rear housing

Post by DenverWinger » Tue Jan 14, 2020 10:44 pm

The Stator itself looks brand-new, it has most certainly survived. Otherwise you'd be seeing black crispy-looking shellac on the windings on some or all of the stator poles.

It is an interference fit, keep at it and it will eventually come off....

As to the cracked wire insulation at the housing feed-thru, it doesn't appear to have shorted there, you could fix that easily with some heat-shrink tubing and maybe a little dab of JB Weld or epoxy. I wouldn't waste that stator. The melted connector attaching the stator to the loom is a common failure point, best thing to do with that is cut the connectors off and solder the three wires when you put engine beck in the frame. Doesn't matter which yellow wire from the stator goes to which from the loom.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark

Saltspringer
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:33 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 in Antares Red

Re: Stator removal from rear housing

Post by Saltspringer » Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:04 am

Thanks DenverWinger, I thought that this stator looked good too!

It is better looking than the high mileage engine stator, which has a distinctly browner overall coloration, although it worked just fine when the bike was running. Glad to hear that there the stator is an interference fit and I just need to be gently persistent....

Wiring repairs are pretty easy to do and I will find a solid wire-to-wire alternative to the fried plug.

Thanks for taking the time to share your advice; appreciated.
1946 Norton Model 18, 500cc single
1946 Harley WL45 Flathead
1960 BMW R60/2
1972 BMW R60/5
1973 Norton Commando
1976 Honda GL1000
1981 Moto Morini 500

1960 Triumph TR3A sports car, in many boxes.....

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newday777
Posts: 1605
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4

1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles

1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles

1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles

Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles

1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles

Re: Stator removal from rear housing

Post by newday777 » Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:25 pm

Test that stator before you put it back in the bike. A burnt connector and those wires show signs of high heat indicators of a problem.

https://www.randakksblog.com/comprehens ... eshooting/

User avatar
newday777
Posts: 1605
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4

1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles

1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles

1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles

Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles

1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles

Re: Stator removal from rear housing

Post by newday777 » Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:34 pm

You may need to get under the stator to gently pry it away from the rear case. A small carpenter's pry bar will do the job.
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Saltspringer
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:33 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 in Antares Red

Re: Stator removal from rear housing

Post by Saltspringer » Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:15 pm

Great advice, thank you!

I am reluctant to start yarding on stuff without knowing there is not some hidden snap ring somewhere!

Andy
1946 Norton Model 18, 500cc single
1946 Harley WL45 Flathead
1960 BMW R60/2
1972 BMW R60/5
1973 Norton Commando
1976 Honda GL1000
1981 Moto Morini 500

1960 Triumph TR3A sports car, in many boxes.....

Saltspringer
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:33 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: 1976 GL1000 in Antares Red

Re: Stator removal from rear housing

Post by Saltspringer » Sun Jan 19, 2020 8:28 pm

Hi

So I finally managed to remove the stators from both my high mileage engine and the 18K engine.

It was a struggle, but the trick seems to be to use a very high tensile steel bar that fits in the fourth hole drilled in the stator body. This hole passes right through the stator body and doesn't seem to serves any purpose, other than to help in freeing up the stator, prior to removal.

Once you have removed the three mounting bolts (probably have to use an impact driver), put the bar in this hole and gently tap the stator in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction. This breaks the seal between the stator and mounting in the rear case and should hopefully now allow you to work the stator off the mount.

In my high mileage engine someone had been in there before me and I think had drove the stator back onto the mounting casting, without any lubrication. When it finally came free the inner surface of the stator showed pick up in one spot and a piece of the mounting boss broke away. When I tried the same technique with the 18K engine the stator immediately broke free and we were able to wriggle it out of the case. I believe this stator was the Honda original and the case showed no pick up or galling.

After forty years the stator shellac coating has probably formed a pretty strong bond with the mount and it can be a bear to remove. The advantage of breaking this seal is that you are not trying to lever the stator off, by working at a single spot, but freeing the whole stator circumference. Working at a single spot could allow the stator to move upwards and become canted over to one side; making things more difficult, rather than easier.

Both stator's tested good so I didn't want to get too aggressive with trying to remove them. I think trying to free the stator by pushing the plug into the case and then to one side, so you can put in a drift and tap it off the mounting casting, is very tempting but would cause significant damage to the stator and would probably only be worth it if your tests showed a bad stator, all other attempts to remove it had failed, and you were replacing it any way.

In my case I had to remove the stator to get at the wiring and replace the failed insulation. I cut the original wires back to the stator ring and soldered and shrink wrapped the new, longer, wires in place. The original wires on the stator were OK, but the wiring insulation had softened somewhat, after years of immersion in oil

The plug that goes into the engine housing is surprisingly complicated. The exterior, above the snap ring is a rubber cap that can be gently pulled away, in my case it was glued to the plugs potting. The insulation had failed where the wires entered the rubber boot, I assumed the wires simply pass through the plug, however they actually terminate on three brass posts buried below the potting; the bottom of the posts being connected to three yellow wires from the stator.

With some care I drilled the posts and the potting out and created a descent sized hole through the plug. I think after all these years the plug bodies are probably now pretty fragile so you need to be careful that the whole thing doesn't simply break up on you....

I pushed the wires through the plug hole, slid an additional protective sleeve over the three wires, spaced the plug out on the wires using the stator from the high mileage engine as a guide, and filled the inside of the plug with marine grade acrylic sealant. I put the rubber cap back on and let it all set. From the outside you would not know.

I plan to replace the three JIS bolts that needed the impact driver to remove them, with three equivalent regular hex headed bolts. These should be much easier to torque and to remove; the JIS bolt heads were soft and if the the impact driver had failed to shift them they would have been miserable to remove. In a week or so I hope to have the stator back in the engine and buttoned up again.

The frame goes to the sandblaster on Tuesday and then I can start painting it. I hope these stator notes help anyone else attempting the same repair.


1946 Norton Model 18, 500cc single
1946 Harley WL45 Flathead
1960 BMW R60/2
1972 BMW R60/5
1973 Norton Commando
1976 Honda GL1000
1981 Moto Morini 500

1960 Triumph TR3A sports car, in many boxes.....

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