Timing Goldwing GL1000

[timkrad]

I purchased a 1976 Goldwing GL1000 with 80K on the clock a couple of years ago. It was in miserable shape, but long story short, I got everything fixed up including putting in the Randakk's carb kits. Got it running reasonably good, but am having trouble with the timing. I have read and understand all the info on timing a GL1000 including Randakk's split timing instructions, but here is my problem. I set both points to .016, adjust the the main base plate so my light comes on (left side points just opening) at the F 1 mark. Everything good so far, but when I try to do the same for the right side points I cannot move the sub base plate nearly far enough to get the points to open at the F 2 mark. I have the sub base plate rotated c-clockwise as far as it will go, but this still has the points opening about 20 to 30 degees early. According to the previous owner a valve job had been done on it before he bought it, could this scenario happen if the cam timing was off by 1 tooth? Any help would be muchly appreciated.

[MattMcCoy]

Did you replace the belts? You could pull the covers and make sure the timing is correct. It’s my understanding that the engine will run one tooth off, but poorly.

[timkrad]

I have not replaced the belts or even had the covers off. Don't want to go thru the trouble now if I don't have to. Might be a winter project for when it's 20 below outside and really hard to enjoy riding.

[MattMcCoy]

Those that have been around these engines for a long time often advise to replace the belts before any other work is performed. It’s really best practice since they’re interference engines and many conditions, including age and non-use, can cause catastrophic failure. That said, everything under those covers are the basis for proper timing (i.e., timing marks, idlers, belts, tension).

Here’s an interesting article on GL timing theory, but not sure if it’s helpful for you:

https://motorcycleproject.com/text/GL10 ... _tech.html

[dingdong]

I purchased a 1976 Goldwing GL1000 with 80K on the clock a couple of years ago. It was in miserable shape,

At least pull the covers and take a look.
I hope in those 2 years you haven"t been running the engine. If you want to do, at minimum a 2 valve replacement, run your bike with the same "in miserable shape, belts. ??? Been there done that. Good luck!

[LAB3]

I'm with the other guys, belts are cheap and if swapping them out and checking the timing marks doesn't do the trick then you've eliminated one possible source for the problem

[Brendan65]

I had some issues with the light until I remembered to slide a piece of cardboard between the points I wasn't setting.

[gipsy42]

The belts doesn´t make any difference in the timming, even if they're one or more tooth off, for the points setup are mounted on the same cam.
Are the points new?? you may try swapping them, perhaps they're not paired and a little difference in the heigth of the raiser (insulating part rubbing the cam) may denny the proper setup.
Mario

[timkrad]

After the holidays, I finally got back to my GL1000. Not a good day to ride at -35 degrees, so I work/play in my heated shop. I took everybody's advice and installed new timing belts and tightener pulleys. There were no timing issues with the old belts, but the tightener pulleys were dry sounding, so I replaced them also. Used the Gates T274 belts and the Gates T42015 pulleys which I bolted to the original plate with a 10mm high grade bolt, lock washer, & nut with locktight. Now for the timing issue which I solved after some hair pulling diagnosis. After trying every possible scenario I emailed the boys at Randakk's and explained to them that the K & S points do not work. They said they had never had any issues, but sent me another new set free. After installing the new set with the same results, I physically compared the K & S points with the OEM points and it turns out the K & S points, stock # 08-0005 & 0006 do not have the same orientation as the original OEM points. The cam lobe prongs on the K & S point set are a little closer (about 1/16") to the points axis which means it opens earlier than it should and closes earlier too which makes it physically impossible to do proper timing. So to remedy my problem, I filed down my original OEM point set, put them back in, and they timed up perfect. I suppose I should buy the OEM point set, but they are sooo expensive.
I am thinking there has to be a lot of GL1000 owners out there having the same problem with the K & S points and just getting by. My bike runs with the K & S points, but definitely not the way it should, hesitates with draggy acceleration. Hope this information can help some others out there.

[MattMcCoy]

Great—thanks for the info.

[cfairweather]

Do yourself a favor and buy a Dyna S electronic ignition. Also, consider replacing the coils with Dyna coils so you can eliminate the ballast resistor. You will find your bike will start better, run better and you won't have to mess with points anymore.

[timkrad]

Thanks for the advice, I will now have to wait for spring to ride again and see how it runs. If it runs as I expect, I will probably just stay with points as I really don't put many miles on in a summer.

[Brendan65]

Adjusting/maintaining points is half the fun !

[GWCox]

I have a very similar issue. The one difference is that my bike seems to be as described in the "Odd observation" paragraph of the Randakk's description of the average timing method in that my 3/4 cylinders have the wide variance instead of the 1/2 cylinders. I figured this out after 2 frustrating days trying to get things timed and thinking that I was lucky because my 1/2 cylinder timing variance was not more than 1 degree either side. But...I could not get the 3/4 timing anywhere close with the adjustment available on the sub plate. Then checked both F2 timings and discovered the greater variation.

I can get everything set up correctly for 1/2 including having the points close after F2, but after averaging the 3/4 timing (seems to be 2-3 degrees either side) I cannot get things adjusted so that the right points close after F1. Increasing the point gap gets me to the point where the timing cannot be set correctly.

I did start with a cam belt replacement and yes, they are installed and tensioned correctly, as I have lots of experience with this.

Since this is the "backwards" situation where the timing variation is on 3/4, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get everything set up so that even the dwell on 3/4 can be properly adjusted?

[joecoolsuncle]

lol. aint it fun proving the internet wrong! BTW, the dyna products are great! never had a failure in over 40 years building v twin stuff.

[timkrad]

Do you know what brand your points are? With K & S points I could also only get one side timed and the other was way off. But with OEM points it timed up nearly perfect as I outlined in a previous post.

[GWCox]

I have not changed them since I got the bike used, so I don't know. Is there a way to tell?

[timkrad]

It seems most points are not marked very well, if at all, so I don't know how you tell. You could just buy OEM pts which when I look last were around $60 or maybe contact some one like Randakks to find out if there is a way to tell. Not sure where I found OEM pts, but you can find them by Googling.

[dingdong]

Randakks recommends points from a cb450 Black Bomber due to the separate ground strap built into the points.

[GWCox]

I ordered a set of points from Randakk's in case the points were the issue, but I don't know if that means they will provide the CB450 points or the straight GL1000 points.

[timkrad]

As I pointed out in my earlier blog, Randakks sells the K & S points for the GL1000 which are oriented wrong and do not allow correct timing. Maybe the CB450 are different, I don't know.

[GWCox]

My saga continues...I received my new points Monday from Randakk's and they were K&S points with the dual springs. Tuesday was installation day but had issues from the beginning because I could not get my multi-meter to beep, as I use it as a buzz box when timing so I only have to watch the flywheel and listen for the beep to check timing. After some preliminary checking, I removed the new points and checked them directly for continuity when the points were closed. The multi-meter would not register any continuity from one point contact to the other. Cleaned the contacts with alcohol in case there was manufacturing residue or other protective covering that needed to be removed before use, but still could not get any continuity.

See my YouTube video demonstrating a good continuity test on the old points and continuity failure on the new points at

   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!


Does anyone know if the K&S points have built-in resistance or some other factor that would prevent continuity with the 2 1.5V batteries in the multi-meter trying to power across the contacts?

I wrote to Randakk's about the issue with a link to the video and am awaiting their reply. I also contacted K&S directly and they "are looking into it."

GWCox

[timkrad]

I had the same issue with K & S points. I filed them with a real fine points file and then cleaned with damp rag. They worked fine after that. A real fine finger nail file would work as well.

[joecoolsuncle]

I had the same issue with K & S points. I filed them with a real fine points file and then cleaned with damp rag. They worked fine after that. A real fine finger nail file would work as well.

the strike zone of a match box was part of the on bike tool bag for decades. it was always available, free, and worked well for renewing points.