1976...... Hydraulic clutch upgrade?

[W109driver]

Hi Guys.
Got my GL1000 on the road last summer.
Love it.
But after 3 or 4 hours my left forearm is in agony.
Is there any upgrade to lighten the clutch or upgrade to hydraulic kit?
Thanks.

[DenverWinger]

I don't see any way to do that short of putting a 1200 engine in the frame.

I've found popping a couple ibuprofen before riding an extended distance does a nice job of preventing muscle aches....

[W109driver]

Thanks for reply.
How about some sort of lever extender.... Hand or clutch end?
It just makes it miserable, dreading changing gear!

[joecoolsuncle]

back in the day, used to extend the clutch release arm by about 10mm. it helped alot. rode enduros and those old bikes had strong clutch springs, you would get arm pump before getting through the first tight area. would refrain from using the clucth as much as possible. but after extending arm, could run the entire race without a problem.
find another arm that will fit the end of your cable. cut off about an inch, cut off the end of existing arm and weld or braze the "new" piece on top of the old one making it slightly longer. would also sometimes relocate the hole in the perch lever to gain leverage there. one or two finger clutch fanning was normal.

[Shadowjack]

I've done a hydraulic conversion on two 1000s according to directions I found online. I don't recall the site, but you may be able to find it by Googling, or it may be on another GW site. I have a copy of the instruction sheet that was provided, but this site won't let me attach a pdf. The OP was Frank Marx, in the Netherlands.
It involves changing the clutch outer cover with one from an 84-only 1200, then running a new hydraulic line up to the [new] master cylinder. I used both parts from a 1200 as well. You can fab up a long braided line to make it easier to get it on the bike. You also have to change the lifter rod so it fits properly, Frank gave specifics of his own conversion.
It did reduce the pull effort, slightly. The biggest change was that it's now a linear effort (once you start moving the lever, it doesn't get harder as it goes).

[Rednaxs60]

Some GW threads:

viewtopic.php?p=91512
https://classicgoldwings.com/threads/gl ... ost-197248

Clutch mod kits:
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... cad0fdedd3

Cheers

[Rowdy]

I put on a new clutch cable on my 1978 , it works as easy as my 1800 Goldwing

[W109driver]

Thankyou guys.
Love the knowledge and experience here.

[ehadams]

Check the routing of your cable to make sure it follows the factory path.
I have seen Incorrect routing can add binding to the clutch.

Do you know if you have the original clutch in it or have the heavy duty springs?
The heavy springs will also require more effort.

You can also switch out to the 78/79 style of clutch handle.
This does require some wiring changes.
It looks like they redesigned the pivot point of the handle.
I find the 78/79 clutch much easier to pull then the 75/77 models.

[reeceds]

I had a 400/4 that would do this I found using a proper "cable oiler" and working wd40 into the cable worked.

[MCRider 1979]

I always lube my cables with STP ! It's slippier than plain oil. Take a pump type oil can, get a piece of rubber hose that is flexible enough to fit over the cable end, clamp it with a hose clamp & pump it up until the hose expands. Leave it hang with the pump up over night & by morning the STP will have worked it's way through. This works good for me.

[vladimirch]

You can use tool like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/303895022063 to fill clutch cable by “proper cable oil”.

Find This Item on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TYX9W?tag=goldwingdocs-20

[cafton]

I had a 400/4 that would do this I found using a proper "cable oiler" and working wd40 into the cable worked.

Do remember WD40 is for water displacement and will evaporate. Any lubrication properties will be quickly lost requiring repeated applications which does not really solve the problem.
Use a proper cable lube as suggest by others here.
Good luck.

[larrycole]

I had the same problem as I got into my mid-70s. I lubed the cable and bought a different clutch lever but I was still afraid I would let it slip at a traffic light with disastrous results. My solution was to sell the bike I had ridden for 37 years and buy a PC800. I sold my GL1000 for $3,000 and bought a '94 Pacific Coast with hydraulic clutch for $2,400. Put a new rear tire on it and still made a profit.

[WingAdmin]

I had the same problem as I got into my mid-70s. I lubed the cable and bought a different clutch lever but I was still afraid I would let it slip at a traffic light with disastrous results. My solution was to sell the bike I had ridden for 37 years and buy a PC800. I sold my GL1000 for $3,000 and bought a '94 Pacific Coast with hydraulic clutch for $2,400. Put a new rear tire on it and still made a profit.

Love the PC800! I know them...inside out.

[larrycole]

I hope I never have to see as much of the inside of the PC as that. I glued some magnets under the shelter for a small tank bag and added a 12v power outlet, but that's it. Had to buy a breaker bar to get the rear axle nut loose, but changing the rear tire was easier than on the GL where you have to remove the bottom end of the shocks.

[WingAdmin]

I hope I never have to see as much of the inside of the PC as that. I glued some magnets under the shelter for a small tank bag and added a 12v power outlet, but that's it. Had to buy a breaker bar to get the rear axle nut loose, but changing the rear tire was easier than on the GL where you have to remove the bottom end of the shocks.

The leaky cam seals (if you don't have them yet, you will) are the worst, because so much has to come apart to get to them, and they are not easy to replace. But other than that, the PC800 is a great bike, and pretty bulletproof.