GL1000 Engine rebuild - need help to diagnose and decide

[Emile]

Hi everyone,

I've already opened a topic for the renovation of my old GL1000 K4.
It was sitting in a barn since 2005, 17 years...

The problem is that it was stored after a failure with the alternator stator I understood. The huy was able to ride back home slowly but that's all. He opened the engine and never started the repairs.
I've just opened the carter and I need to decide what to do next.

This is the engine, not looking great...

The alternator has been removed already (17 years ago...)
But we can see some marks

I've found some pieces of metal inside :

It could be the broken rotor/stator, but I've seen a strange thing on the engine :

Is that normal, or is it broken ?

At the end, I need to decide if I need to open the engine, or if I can let it like that.
Anyway I will open the upper part of the engine to check piston rings, etc... but the lower part is always more difficult.

[Rednaxs60]

I'm a fan of delving into an issue(s) depending on what way ahead I have decided on. Couple of questions need to be asked. Do you want to keep it, refurbish/restore it and ride, what is your budget, can you do all or most of the work yourself.

Does the engine turn over? Do you have the OEM service manual?

I would take the carbs off, have to be rebuilt, heads as well. You can get a small, inexpensive borescope to inspect the cylinders without taking the heads off - may be able to view the valves as well. If not heads should come off.

With the bits and pieces you have found inside the engine, I would split the cases and inspect. No sense doing work just to find out on a start that something is inside and ruins your day. These engines look more intimidating than they are once you get working on them.

I would source a new rear case. Remove the one you have and check for additional pieces.

Some may mention it's better and less expensive to find another engine. Maybe; however, I am rebuilding a rescued '85 fuel injected engine and will be able to have it working for less than $1K CDN. Could not buy a used engine and transport it to my house for that. Buying a used engine and not knowing the history is buying a used engine - buyer beware.

If you are going to bring the bike back to its former glory, strip the engine apart and rebuild as required, or sell and cut your losses.
Good luck.

[Emile]

The plan for the moment is to keep it for me.
For the budget the bike was free so it let a bit of money for spare parts ! but my budget remains as low as possible
It's not the first bike I rebould, the lower part of the engine is the only thing I'm not used to. Checking and replacing bearings, this kind of things...

After I removed the belts, the engine turn freely.
That's a good point.
I will take the head off as I saw rust on the valves. So a nice cleaning and new gaskets o-rings etc... I hope it will go without too much difficulties.

For the carbs it is already in progress. Everything is in pieces, and I've ordered rebuild kits.
I'm quite confident that I can do a good job with it.

I think I will open the cases yes. Even for the gasket it can be a good idea.

[Rednaxs60]

Check out the online videos by Maurice Gardiner and Bronko37. Good information. These engines only look intimidating.

[Rambozo]

The big problem is lack of replacement parts. While there are some substitutes, Some items are just not around anymore. The one good thing is that many bikes have just been neglected and not ridden to end of life. So many parts that normally would be replaced, can be reused.

[winguyjo]

"After I removed the belts, the engine turn freely."

this is an interference engine, so it's not a good idea to turn the crankshaft independently of the camshafts.

[whodat90]

If you pull the belts both camshafts will roll to 'all valves closed' position. No interference.

[Emile]

I'm turning it very slowly of course to avoid touching the valves with the piston of course.

[Emile]

Here is a fresh rebuild of the carburators ! a first step...

[Emile]

I'm watching the videos for engine rebuild.
Can you clarify what is the rebuild assembly lube ? is it standard engine oil ?
(for example in the video of Maurice gardner engine rebuild part 2 for the oil pump.)

[WingAdmin]

I'm watching the videos for engine rebuild.
Can you clarify what is the rebuild assembly lube ? is it standard engine oil ?
(for example in the video of Maurice gardner engine rebuild part 2 for the oil pump.)

No, engine oil won't stay in place long enough, and you won't get the initial lubricating properties you need. There is specific lubricating grease made for this purpose. When I worked on race cars, we used one called Lubriplate Motor Assembly Grease that worked very well, and that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.

Find This Item on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HZJFE0?tag=goldwingdocs-20

[Emile]

Hi,
It seems i need a special tool to remove the Clutch.

Do you know where i can get one ?

[Rambozo]

Many just mod an old socket with an angle grinder. I'm sure Honda can sell you the "proper" tool.

Edit.
Don't have one in front of me to measure but a quick search shows they are everywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Removal-Remover- ... B07SL4RRDL

Find This Item on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SL4RRDL?tag=goldwingdocs-20

[Emile]

Ok yes I've just built my own from another tool ! should do the trick, I will try tomorrow.

[Emile]

Can you help me identify which screws maintain the left and right engine parts together ?
In the doc it says 19 screws on the left side and 3 on the right side.

For the left:
- On the top I see 3 small screw and 3 big (picture 1)
- On the side I'm guessing the 3 big in blue are the one.
I think the red one no. The Yellow one no idea. And it seems the green one is missing ?
- And I see 4 screws on the ground side.

[Rambozo]

Before you split the case, it would be a good idea to get it to turn over. Soak that rusty cylinder with penetrating oil and clean up the rust. (wire wheel, hone, emery, etc.)

[Emile]

Yes for sure.
Anyway for this cylinder I might have to do someting...
Once disassemble, I will check the size.

[Emile]

I'm good !

[Emile]

Hi,

I need help to decide...
I've bring the engine case to an engine machinist (not sure the name in english ... ) to check the cylinder full of rust.

He cleaned the cylinder, but he says that it is not perfect and advise me to drill all cylinders to the +0.25mm size.
It will cost me a lot... 80€ for each cylinder, and then I have to replace all pistons...

I'm not planning to ride this bike for many many miles. (I already have 2 other bikes). The goal is to have it running properly, and ride from time to time.

My question :
Do you think I can drill to +0.25mm only this cylinder ? The guy told me the imbalance would not be great... but I'm really not convinced...
Or shall I keep the cylinder as it is ? with still maybe view dots of rusts ? (I have not seen it yet)...

[Rambozo]

One of the big issues is that you may not be able to get parts. First check and see what pistons you can get. Same with rings.
You have to see how bad the rust is. Have it honed until it looks good enough to use, then measure the bore. You can re gap some oversize rings if you are close. Or go to the first oversize as needed. You can do the one bore, and should still be able to balance the rotating assembly, but don't expect it to have the glass smooth idle that GoldWings are known for.
You might just want to look around for a good used engine.

[Rednaxs60]

0.25 mm oversize is not a huge difference. Most oversize rings I've seen start at 0.50 mm. I'd hone the cylinders and monitor the amount you are talking off. The cylinder that is rusty, hone it until you feel no ridges, don't worry about the look. Don't go over the 0.25 mm. As long as the bore is smooth, will probably work fine. Finding a new set of rings may be more challenging. There are early model Gold Wings out there that have been put back in service without the engine cylinders being looked at.

[Emile]

Picture of the rusty cylinder after being honed.

I'm thinking about just go with it, with new rings.
After all I'm not looking for performance...

Or check if I can get a other engine part.

But if I change the engine, it will be a complete new bike and not a rebuild.

[Emile]

for what I can feel with my finger, no hard points, but still irregular. Sometimes it feels deeper.

For the rings I can find it in France for 36€ for one piston.

[Rednaxs60]

The 1000 engine has a bore of 72 mm. Don't know about the ring thickness and such.

Rebuilt the engine in my '85 1200 Limited Edition. New rings were an issue, expensive and hard to find. A fellow over here rebuilt his 1100 with rings from a 2003 Chevy Tracker 1.6 litre engine, used the 1.00 mm oversize rings. I used the same in my 1200 engine, ground the ring ends to fit the rings. Think I had a ring end gap of 0.060" - don't quote me on this. Had to take 0.5 mm off each ring, these are working well in the engine.

I am putting a second 1200 engine together using the 0.5 mm oversize rings. Using these because the standard size rings are 75 mm, and I need 75.5 mm for a standard fit.

The cost for a set of four rings is approximately $50.00 CDN from RockAuto. The ring thicknesses are top/middle/oil scraper - 1.2/1.2/2.5 mm. Don't know what the OEM ring thickness is, but may be something to consider. Engine rebuilders modify piston rings all the time.

[Emile]

The engine is still at the shop.
I've asked them to get me the exact measurement so I can decide what to do.