Hi all, I always follow your advice on the forum.
I live in Switzerland and own a GL1000 '77.
I have detected the common problem of too high voltage in the charging system (14.5/15.5 at all revs)
I would like to bridge the black regulator cable to the battery positive. I know you have to add a relay in the circuit and a fuse, but I have no idea how to install it. Could you help me with a diagram showing the colours of the cables and which of the relay plugs you need to connect them to?
I know Relays have fixed codes in the plugs, please refer to those, not names I can't understand.
To make things easier, could I use a relay with a built-in fuse and change the 30-amp fuse to a 5-amp fuse?
I am not very clear with electrical things, so I am asking you to explain things like a child. Just a clear and simple drawing would be ideal
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Regulator-to-positive jump, Relay wiring scheme request
- DenverWinger
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'80 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
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Re: Regulator-to-positive jump, Relay wiring scheme request
See this post:
viewtopic.php?p=410520#p410520
This relay modification does not use a relay with a built in 30 amp fuse, you need a small automotive "accessory" relay, not a big bulky "Start" relay. There will be very little current flowing thru this relay.
It is likely the automotive "accessory" relays available in Switzerland do not have the same terminal identification as those commonly found in the US. Take a picture of the relay terminals, the packaging and any instructions that come with it and we'll try to decode which terminals on the Swiss relay go to what.
viewtopic.php?p=410520#p410520
This relay modification does not use a relay with a built in 30 amp fuse, you need a small automotive "accessory" relay, not a big bulky "Start" relay. There will be very little current flowing thru this relay.
It is likely the automotive "accessory" relays available in Switzerland do not have the same terminal identification as those commonly found in the US. Take a picture of the relay terminals, the packaging and any instructions that come with it and we'll try to decode which terminals on the Swiss relay go to what.
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♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
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♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
-
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- Motorcycle: HONDA GL1000 ED (Europeand Direct Sales), 1977
Re: Regulator-to-positive jump, Relay wiring scheme request
Hi Denver,
Thank you very much for your reply
I think I was too hasty in my conclusions, perhaps in the hope that I could get away with a limited repair cost.
In short, I did a test and apparently my voltage regulator is not working as it should.
Basically, I connected the black cable of the regulator directly to the positive pole of the battery, effectively bypassing the circuit that runs through the ignition switch. Well, with the bike running, the voltage at the battery went from the initial 14 volts to over 15.5 volts at idle, and then stabilised. Even if I increased the revs to 3500, the voltage to the battery did not change significantly.
I deduce that my voltage regulator is not working properly and needs to be changed.
The battery is practically new and the voltage was around 13 volts before the test.
Can you or anyone else confirm that the test I performed and its results confirm a malfunction of the regulator?
At this point, if so, I would go for a modern Rectifier/Regulator instead of just replacing the regulator, which is the result of outdated technology.
Thank you very much for any suggestions. If I can manage not to spend too much it would be nice. I have seen that there are R/Rs with prices varying widely, from $20 to over $150.
If anyone can point me in the direction of a cheap but acceptable quality solution I would be happy.
Greetings to all
thanks
Thank you very much for your reply
I think I was too hasty in my conclusions, perhaps in the hope that I could get away with a limited repair cost.
In short, I did a test and apparently my voltage regulator is not working as it should.
Basically, I connected the black cable of the regulator directly to the positive pole of the battery, effectively bypassing the circuit that runs through the ignition switch. Well, with the bike running, the voltage at the battery went from the initial 14 volts to over 15.5 volts at idle, and then stabilised. Even if I increased the revs to 3500, the voltage to the battery did not change significantly.
I deduce that my voltage regulator is not working properly and needs to be changed.
The battery is practically new and the voltage was around 13 volts before the test.
Can you or anyone else confirm that the test I performed and its results confirm a malfunction of the regulator?
At this point, if so, I would go for a modern Rectifier/Regulator instead of just replacing the regulator, which is the result of outdated technology.
Thank you very much for any suggestions. If I can manage not to spend too much it would be nice. I have seen that there are R/Rs with prices varying widely, from $20 to over $150.
If anyone can point me in the direction of a cheap but acceptable quality solution I would be happy.
Greetings to all
thanks