Hello everyone!!
It's me again... back with more questions!
I just finished swapping out a headgasket that was leaking water. In the process I drained the coolant through the fill bolt... when I fired it up and fed it coolant it didn't really suck any down like I'm used to with my experience working on cars... I let it fully warm up to the middle of the normal section and it only took 2.5 quarts... wondering about thoughts on this.
Also my fan previously had never turned off, anytime the ignition was on, so was my fan... I never thought much of it because it never hurt nothing, but when I ran the bike today first time on the new headgasket, it ran for a while then turned off at temp. Have I hit the illusive fan switch failure?
Thanks!!
Head gasket change
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whiteclad57
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2020 1:48 am
- Location: Sisters, Oregon
- Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000 Goldwing
1981 GL500 Silverwing
Re: Head gasket change
The engine coolant capacity is only 3qts, I can pretty easily see .5 qt staying in the passages and radiator if you didn't fully remove everything.
Check the radiator fill stem once cool after you've ridden for a bit, see if it's gone down, fill to top if it has and you didn't "burp" the system before.
It sounds like your switch had failed before honestly, it's not supposed to be running 24/7 only when reaching the higher end of the operating range.
These switches are persnickety, and aftermarket options are unreliable (mine turns on way too early, not the worst way it could be out of spec but still), either buy OEM (~$90) if it needs replaced or do a switch bypass.
Check the radiator fill stem once cool after you've ridden for a bit, see if it's gone down, fill to top if it has and you didn't "burp" the system before.
It sounds like your switch had failed before honestly, it's not supposed to be running 24/7 only when reaching the higher end of the operating range.
These switches are persnickety, and aftermarket options are unreliable (mine turns on way too early, not the worst way it could be out of spec but still), either buy OEM (~$90) if it needs replaced or do a switch bypass.