Running on Three

[jmcookesq]

New owner of a 79 GL1000 with some highly customized bodywork (read impossible to work on). Anyway, changed out the plugs and found out that Number 2 is not firing at all (plug looks like new). Normally, I would think it was the coil but since the coil fires two cylinders and the other one is firing, I am head scratching. Due to the bodywork, I am trying to do as little troubleshooting as possible as most of that would be destructive in this case. So, can anyone give me a headstart here? To start, which coil fires No 2? Thanks in advance for my help.

[Fred Camper]

Since it is just number 2, it is either carb 2 or maybe the ignition wire for 2. First check to see if you have spark on 2, by removing the plug then pushing it back in the wire boot and letting it ground on the top of the cylinder head. You should see a blue spark if you have good ignition wires. If you do have a solid spark, then carb 2 may have a plug and perhaps needs a rebuild.

[jmcookesq]

Thanks for your help.

[dingdong]

Curious about your highly customized body work. We need pictures.

[jmcookesq]

Don't have any right now but here is a link to a Youtube video posted by the seller.



   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!

[thrasherg]

I would be running a compression check on number 2 to make sure there are no burnt out valves, then I would be looking at the electrical ignition side (check EHT leads, coil and spark plug, etc) and then if your bodywork is so difficult to remove, a carb clean would be my last check.. I would normally check the carbs earlier in the process, but you do have to remove the bodywork to get access to the carbs so I made it last in the list.. Swap the spark plug to another cylinder and see if that cylinder stops working, you may just have a defective spark plug (yes it's uncommon, but it happens).

Gary

[jmcookesq]

Update: I was in the garage working on another bike and had an idea. I fired up the bike and unplugged the number 2 wire and plugged it into the number 3 cylinder; it didn't fire. I then plugged the number 3 wire into number 2 and it didn't fire either. So, number 2 cylinder wouldn't fire with either plug wire and number 3 would fire with the number 3 wire and wouldn't fire with the number 2 wire. Does this test mean anything or is there some other factor that makes this a non sequitur?

[Fred Camper]

Not sure why you tried to get number 2 to fire with the number 3 wire. They do not fire at the proper time for each other. Pretty sure it is one and 2, and 3 and 4 that fire at the same time. So nothing learned by changing 2 to 3 as far I understand the ignition system. We need you to confirm spark on 2 by removing the plug and laying it on the cylinder head with the igntion boot back on it loose like that. It can ground on the cylinder head and should produce a blue spark up there. You should leave all other plugs connected normally. I agree a compression check can be done if you verify you have a spark on number 2. Stay away from the carb until you have fully evaluated the ignition.

[jmcookesq]

Thanks. Since I was in the middle of something else, I hadn't pulled the plug wire apart yet. I took the rubber end off the ngk extender but the hard plastic part looked more involved so I will have to get back to it.

[jmcookesq]

Update: I pulled the plug and put it against the head and plenty of spark (side note: I don't know why I didn't think of this - it is tough getting old!) So, I guess I need to do a compression test and then (Fun, Fun, Fun) pull the carb. Thanks, guys.

BTW, Do I need to check the different cylinders and compare or is there a number I should be shooting for on the trouble cylinder that will tell me it is the valve. Thanks again.

[Fred Camper]

For a compression check you need to compare each cylinder. Sorry, but the reason g from number 2 alone will not be enough unless us is about 50.

[jmcookesq]

Thanks, I thought I had remembered that much.

[1grouch2u]

I might get kicked out for advising something this low-tech, but I've been using an alternative to the compression test (with passable results) for many years now...

remove the plugs. ball up some pieces of paper and press them into the spark plug holes (don't push them all the way into the engine okay?) now crank the engine while holding the throttle open, kill switch 'off'. the compression on a good cylinder should shoot the paper wad a good distance- you can compare if you have a weak cylinder as it won't 'pop' nearly as well as the rest.

although even a cylinder with low compression will still push some, you can usually rule out bent/burned valves, etc. by this simple test. GL1000 engines will typically throw the paper wad a pretty fair distance. It may take a couple of tries to get this right, but it's a real simple poor-man's alternative to the legit test (which requires a spacial adapter from most testers- except the ones with the rubber tip you have to hold in place while cranking the engine)

-I hope this is of some use to you, and that I'm still around to hear your results!

[Fred Camper]

Gotta love the sport involved in a paper wad shoot off. Can do all at the same time that way and see who shoots the farthest. I like it.

[1grouch2u]

Gotta love the sport involved in a paper wad shoot off. Can do all at the same time that way and see who shoots the farthest. I like it.

Exactly! -See that they all shoot a fairly good distance! Also: want to know if we'll be seeing 'Steampunk Goldwing" out and about this spring (Don't forget to post final results- inquiring minds want to know!)

[artgrantz]

Before you dig too deeply into the engine or carb be sure the wire is making good contact inside the plug boot. I had one that pulled back from the contact inside the boot and gave a real weak spark. Perhaps when you laid the plug on the engine the wire made good enough contact to spark but in the mounted position it may no be making contact. Push it in firmly and see if that helps.
Good Luck.