Clarion Type-1 diagnosis

[MSGT-R]

Okay, it's my turn to be stymied. I'm pretty savy when it comes to electrical, but it stops at the circuit board (If you let the smoke out, it quits working).

I have an 80 GL1100 Interstate with the type 1 radio and the interface box that shuts off the external speakers. The prior owner said it worked, but it's been a long time ago. I just finished un-futzing the fairing harness connections now that I have the diagram.

I have power to all three units, I have sound from the speakers, but I cannot get the face plate to change the channels on any band. I can change the band. AM 1605 draws a weak signal, so I know it's receiving, but none of the small push-buttons work. The volume and all the large turn-knobs work.

Is the problem in the face plate unit or the main unit? I suspect it's the faceplate.

[WingAdmin]

It could be either - I don't know the Clarion I as well as the II, but I suspect you're going to need the assistance of Sierra-MC. You might want to call them first - I seem to remember reading somewhere that they were going to discontinue servicing type I Clarions.

[MSGT-R]

Thank you for the resource. My local electronics guy only does home-electronics. I'm not sure if the guy in Riverside is still there (I hope so), he used to service my Mazda radio when the LCD would burn out. It's been over 10 years since I've been back.

Even if they don't service the Type-1 anymore, they may have supporting materials..(?) I'll drop them a line.

[MSGT-R]

Well, I went over to someone's house that has a couple of sheds of "stuff". He didn't have a single piece of Clarion Type-1, but had a buttload of Type-2 components.

[WingAdmin]

Enough to assemble an entire system you could install?

[MSGT-R]

No digital indicator for the radio or CB.

Other than that, I have three controllers (with shelters), two main units, two junction boxes, a CB unit and a (radio) handlebar switch. I think there's an amp in there somewhere (?)

[propstop]

My 83 is doing the same exact thing. Standing by.

[MSGT-R]

I had the last two parts to buy on e-bay, now to test the system. I don't think I'll be using the Type II I've collected now that the Type I console was fixed by Sierra.

[WingAdmin]

How recently did Sierra fix the Type 1? I had heard some months ago that they were no longer going to do Type 1 repairs.

[MSGT-R]

About two months ago. The little silicone buttons needed replacing on the control unit.

Call them before packing anything up to send.

[goldwing 1200]

Hey, let's keep this post going. I also have this type and AM/FM are both stuck at top end of band.
I took apart the push button and discovered they were corroded and non-operatable!
They are about 1/4" square and mounter directly to the printed circuit board. I need about 6
to repair. If anyone has a source or service center please advise.
I use to be an electronics engineer several decades ago so I know a little these circuits.
Parts replacement are always the stopper!

CabbyGuy (Central Florida)
83 Interstate GL1100 (work in process)

[MSGT-R]

http://www.sierra-mc.com/

These are the guys I mailed my control panel to. It was $100 well spent.
They can tell you where they got the parts, I'm sure.

[propstop]

Looks like I have a type II Clarion doing the same. My problem started after my battery went bad and I tried charging it with a bad cell. Should I try to repair or just find another unit? I guess price would determine which way to go. Also when it was working the sound wasn't very good. Low volume was ok but a little louder and sound was distorted. Nature of the beast or blown speakers?

[WingAdmin]

That sounds like blown speakers - mine is crystal clear, even at very loud volumes.

For $100, you're probably better off getting it repaired at Sierra. They did mine and it works like new now.

[propstop]

Thanks
Off to the shop she goes. By the way, this site rocks. Thank you for your time and effort in producing this "Goldwing for Dummies". Your How-To articles are excellent. I completely rebuilt my brakes front and rear using your articles as my only source of info.

Thanks

[WingAdmin]

Excellent! I'm so glad that my efforts are of use to people! I love to hear this kind of thing.

[goldwing 1200]

Yes, Cudos from me to on this great site! I am restoring this '83 GW 1100 and the material has been invaluable.
I have not had to buy a service manual. I guess I might have to send my radio unit in when I get all else finished.
Thanks again for replies.......

[MSGT-R]

Resurecting..

I found that the rear speakers from a 1500 are a match for the failing speakers on the 1100. A little elongating of the mounting slots and you're in business!

... then my radio stopped working again I was setting the pre-sets and all the buttons went stupid!!! (damit). It wasn't the speakers, I re-installed the radio before changing out the speakers. I had pulled everything out because of rough sound in both speakers and headset, and decided to put everything back in until after Wing Ding or I'd never get it back in time.

This time, Sierra wants me to pull the whole system and send it in, not just the faceplate. I'm pulling, packing and plugging the holes, but I'll be carrying it all with me to Wing Ding and hand delivering.

In the meantime, I'll be rigging up a din cable adapter so I can listen to my IPOD in my helmet.

[MSGT-R]

Another update:

Made my DIN cable adapter for my IPOD and it works, but it needs a little more volume boost or I probably won't hear it above 40 mph. I got onto Amazon and bought an IPOD Amp - tiny thing - it's charging up on my computer via USB port now. $22.49

FiiO E5 is a Portable Headphone Amplifier designed to improve the sound quality and volume of any portable audio source such as MP3 players, iPods, personal media players, mobile phones, laptops, notebooks/netbooks, or portable CD players. With built-in volume controls, the E5 can be used with the line-level output of audio sources for even better sound quality. The E5 provides superior sound quality and works well with high impedance headphones. Two EQ profiles are available for flat or bass-boost response, allowing additional flexibility in obtaining optimal tonal match with different headphones.

[dvanvlerah]

I have a 1983 Interstate and the radio is getting weak and intermitent reception. Is there such a thing as an antenna signal booster? I have replaced the antenna and speakers but when I turn the vol. up it sounds like speakers are blown. Could it be the tuner mod.is bad? Thanks, David

[WingAdmin]

I have a 1983 Interstate and the radio is getting weak and intermitent reception. Is there such a thing as an antenna signal booster? I have replaced the antenna and speakers but when I turn the vol. up it sounds like speakers are blown. Could it be the tuner mod.is bad? Thanks, David

That's a common problem with the tuner when they get old. It's not a problem with the strength of the signal, it's that the tuner circuitry inside the radio is beginning to drift. Send the tuner to Sierra Electronics and they can fix it for you.

[MSGT-R]

They sure can. I hand-delivered mine at Wing Ding and it's already done. They found that there was a cracked solder joint on the circuit board, and a faulty IC chip that wasn't letting FM broadcast in stereo.

[Signmaker11]

I know this is an old thread, but thought I might chime in. If you get sound out of your Clarion type I or II but the the buttons do nothing- it's probably the buttons! Physical electronics like switches, potentiometers, solder joints and connectors fail far more often than the electronic components.
Take apart the control unit- there are LOTS of screws, front knobs and 4 binding posts to remove to get the outer case off- then remove the nuts holding the rotary controls, finally the screws holding the circuit board to the metal frame. You will wind up with everything loose, potentiometers, rotary switches, a circuit board and a huge ribbon cable that everything is soldered to. Handle carefully!
I tested the tactile switches- that's the buttons that get pushed- and every one of them was bad. You can carefully pop the tops off of these switches and be left with just the inner lower contacts. Then, I took the whole mess and plugged it in to the fairing. I could short the contacts with a screwdriver as a switch contactor and VIOLA! the radio worked perfectly.
So, it's time to replace the tactile switches. I might have some around that would work, or may have to measure carefully and order some from a place like Mouser Electronics. I can see that it will take some soldering skill to replace these switches. They are soldered to the aforementioned ribbon cable, which will damage easily with too much heat- but with patience should be doable for anyone with a bit of experience.
At the moment, things are in pieces, but I will report back with final result, but, I'm certain that this is the fix in my case. I have another doing the same thing and will post some pics when I do that one.
(long time electronics tech and instructor here)

[WingAdmin]

I do a lot of repairs and restorations of old synthesizers, and I can echo this - those tactile switches "age out" - not necessarily from use, just from age, they oxidize internally and become intermittent, and eventually they stop working entirely.

I will as a rule desolder and replace ALL of the tactile switches on these old synths, rather than trying to target just the ones that are starting to have problems. Saves having to re-do it again down the road.

One I just finished up restoring:

Synth torn apart

[Signmaker11]

For what it's worth, this is the innards of the type I controls. On the left is the main board, with the tactile switch tops popped off. The switch marked ME has been removed. I am working on finding suitable replacement switches.... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oLJUGg ... sp=sharing

Admin- (it's unclear to me how to post images here!... google drive link not working with the html????)