neutral light stays on/82 gl1100

[jayb]

i have a1982 gl1100 that the neutral light stays on all the time. When in neutral the light just gets a little brighter.

[virgilmobile]

It appears that the neutral switch is inside the front cover./forum/viewt ... f=4&t=1146
There's a single wire attached to it.Unhook the wire and verify if the light goes off.
If it does,the switch inside as malfunctioned,if it stays on the wire is chaffed or pinched somewhere.

[jayb]

Thanks I will check that, I should have said that it was a 81 engine in a 82 frame, the engine has been setting for a while. I was hoping that if it was stuck that it might free up after riding a while . Jayb

[virgilmobile]

OK disregard my post....
The 81 neutral safety switch is jammed into the block...Its just behind the frame on the lower,right front corner....
It can get contaminated.Loosen the engine bolt,remove the one wire attached to it.The light should go off.
Remove the 6mm bolt and pry the frame from the block just enough to wiggle the switch out.
I have disassembled and cleaned them with good results.Do replace the "O" ring too.

[WingAdmin]

The fact that it gets brighter when it IS in neutral says to me that the switch is operating normally.

What has likely happened is that the wire leading from the neutral switch has gotten pinched somewhere, and is being shorted to ground (against the frame or block somewhere). If the wire is connected to ground, the neutral light will light up. Because it is pinched/shorted to a ground somewhere along the line, it's not a perfect connection, so the light doesn't come on all the way. When you actually switch to neutral, the switch provides a complete, normal path to ground, and the light lights up full strength.

[virgilmobile]

Exactly right. The "almost short" can occure in the switch too.unhook the wire on the switch first to determine which area is at fault.

[moffat]

Virginmobile is correct, If its the engine with the neutral light switch that is accessable and removable from the bottom right of the sump then its contaminated by conductive crud from the lubrication system.
This is a common problem and explains why the light glows dimly when in gear and brightly when a good connection is made as when in neutral.
People have tried with limited success to apply a high DC current at 12volts via a heavy duty battery charger to blast of the crud and sometimes this works for a while but the problem will re-occour later.
The switch really needs to be replaced and you will have to remove the bottom engine mounting bolts and spring the frame away with a wooden wedge to get the switch out. This procedure is explained in the HONDA maintenace manual and is accepted practice.
I have changed several switches this way in the past this way and the job start to finish takes about two hours . Also have read of the switch being stripped down and repaired but frankly after struggling to get it out I would not take the risk and do the job properly by fitting a new switch ( WITH A NEW O RING AS HONDA DOES NOT SUPPLY THEM WITH THE SWITCH). Whist you have the frame sprung I suggest you remove and clean the oil pump pick up gauge filter fitted just behing the neutral switch.
The later engines have the neutral switch inside the front lower casing of the engine assembly.
There is thread on this website somewhere describing the procedure I think?

[WingAdmin]

Virginmobile is correct, If its the engine with the neutral light switch that is accessable and removable from the bottom right of the sump then its contaminated by conductive crud from the lubrication system.

It's actually carbon, a by-product of combustion (it's what turns the oil black). It's conductive, in fact resistors are made of carbon. Enough of it collected in concentration will allow some (not all) current to flow.

Sometimes a Seafoam treatment in the crankcase oil (change oil, add Seafoam, run bike for 100 miles, change oil again) is enough to dissolve the sludge holding the carbon in place, fixing the problem. This often fixes stuck starter sprags as well.

[greganderson]

i have the same issue, although it is on a 79 GL1000. I am going to search for the wire, can anyone tell me off-hand where the switch is on 79 GL1000 please? thank you

[jayb]

Switch is under the frame on the lower right hand side of the engine toward the front. you can disconect the wire, if the light stays on it is the wire, if it goes out it is the switch, Most of the time the switch. The switch can be removed with the engine installed. Normaly the switch can be taken apart and cleaned with carb cleaner with good results. Good luck JayB

[greganderson]

"you can disconect the wire," thanks jayb, I found where the wire connects, it looks like i will have to shim the engine up and away to even un-screw the wire ?? IS that correct?
The crazy thing is is that it is an intermittent issue. Sometimes, without the engine running, and shifting through the gears, the light goes off ,the way that it should operate. When the engine is running, is when the neutral light is dim, in gear, and brighter in neutral.
Also, is this an issue that if unattended too can cause problems, or is it more of a safety issue, not being certain if the bike is actually in neutral or not? I am needing to fix it, but I also need to ride it as my primary means of transportation. I will not have time until this weekend to give it my complete attention.


I appreciate your help

[virgilmobile]

virgilmobile » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:03 pm
Exactly right. The "almost short" can occur in the switch too.unhook the wire on the switch first to determine which area is at fault.

I used just a #2 sheet rock bit and a 1/4" wrench to break the screw loose then unscrew it with my fingers.....Do this when the light is still glowing while in gear to verify the switch is causing the problem.

It is a safety issue...when the light is on,you can engage the starter...whether your in gear or not.
......Here's what could happen......

Light on..still in in gear...push start button...bike falls over....pins you under the hot exhaust pipe....nobody there to help... ..A few turkey buzzards circle overhead....die of starvation........I know what it's like in Nebraska...
Sheesh,this scenario just gets worse and worse.

You could just unhook the wire and have to pull in the clutch to crank it too...That would keep the light off till the switch can be tested/repaired/replaced.

[greganderson]

yep, you know nebraska alright.

OK, i am going to get into it tonight after work, I hate to wait until saturday....

thanks for all the help

[virgilmobile]

I hope it's obvious that when you remove the switch that most of the engine oil will come out too.

[greganderson]

thanks for that virginmobile, that is what i assumed so, I am counting on draining the oil first and doing a change....but I do appreciate your sense of humor

[moffat]

Suggest that when you replace the neutral switch you also remove and clean the oil pump gauge strainer which is behind the neutral switch. I remove the rear engine bolt and the nut off the long left to right engine bolt and use a wooden wedge to spring the frame away from the engine to enable access to the neutral switch. I also shortened the front oil strainer bolt to enable the oil pump suction strainer to be removed without springing the frame in the future. This terrible way of doing things is suggested in the Honda manual!

[boblj]

i have a 1982 1100 cc motor in a 83 frame the neutral light stays on but the 83 frame has 2 wires running down to it the 82 has one wire coming from it? the two will plug up but whats the other wire for? and is it why my light stays on? or is it in need of replaceing?

[HawkeyeGL1200]

This is a safety concern. I hit the starter button on my 1100 (with the problem discussed in this thread) and the transmission was NOT in neutral... the bike shot across the parking space and landed on its side. Fortunately, I suppose, I was standing next to the bike when I did this stupid thing, before fixing the problem, not straddling the seat.

[WingAdmin]

i have a 1982 1100 cc motor in a 83 frame the neutral light stays on but the 83 frame has 2 wires running down to it the 82 has one wire coming from it? the two will plug up but whats the other wire for? and is it why my light stays on? or is it in need of replaceing?

The neutral switch on the 83 has a wire for the neutral position as well as one for overdrive (5th gear). Your 82 motor won't have a connection for that wire, so just leave it disconnected, or source an 83 neutral switch to install in your 82 motor.

[boblj]

got her fixed thanks guys have a long safe ride!

[bvande]

Hi There
How do I go about diagnosing a faulty neutral light?
The only thing I have tried so far, is putting a working bulb in the neutral light socket and it didn't light up.
Where can I take the diagnosing from here ? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Bob

[WingAdmin]

First thing I would check is to disconnect the neutral switch right at its source, on the front engine cover, and check to see if it is closed (shorted) when the bike is in neutral:



If you look through this tutorial, you can see images showing how it is accessed:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=275

[tomos]

Hi, have you been able to get it done,no more neutral light when in a gear?
If not , please check diode that is located just under the false tank left side related to coils .That diode sticks out of wire harness and it is not big problem to replace it.That diode was a problem with my neutral light being lit as yours.
You can get it from any motorcycle parts store or even on Ali express.
Hope this helps.
Regards Zoran