1980 GL1100 Carb Rebuild in progress -

[Wingsconsin]

Last weekend I learned how to remove the carbs from the GL1100 Interstate we acquired last fall. This bike is my sons first Goldwing and it is a real beauty but over the winter and this spring we have found a lot of 'deferred' maintenance by the previous owner. Things like low or no brake fluids, rear drive flange splines worn to the point of needing replacing, brakes worn out, calipers needing rebuilds, etc. etc.
Now that all of these things are completed the next step was to address what I believed to be a rich running condition...

The bike always smelled like it was running rich , and only delivered 33 to 35 MPG regardless of riding conditions. I felt that this was sub-standard and that we should be seeing more like 40 MPG from this bike with careful throttle control maybe more...

When we removed the carbs I found them to be in poor condition. Very dirty externally and internally. After a few courses through the ultrasonic cleaner we have been able to really make the carbs look right. One of the things I found was a broken idle adjustment screw and all 4 of them were turned out 2 + turns..? As I have read the manual(s) and tutorials I think the 80's should be at 1-1/4 turns out so this would account for much of the rich running condition...? Right..? Carb floats will be carefully checked for proper adjustment as well...

New idle adjustment screws have arrived with the rebuild kits we ordered and these will go in at the prescribed 1-1/4 turns. A bench synch should get it running and then after we get the bike running a vacuum synch with the 4 guage manometer...

Should there be any need to adjust valves even though I did them previously..? If so should we do them before the carb replacement or maybe after we get it running again..? The bike SOUNDS good once it is warmed up even when it was running rich...but I am just wondering..(probably overthinking this one) ...

Your comments are welcomed....

[80-GL100-INT]

1 1/4 turns is just a recommended starting point. Fine tuning while syncing might very well bring them 2+ turns out, may also be 1/4 turn out as well, just depends on where everything sets when optimum tuning is complete.

I don't think it would ever hurt to recheck the valves, especially if you have had it up to temp. since last adj.. They rolled off the assembly line with feeler gauges in the tool kit for a reason and it's easy enough to do.

[virgilmobile]

Also,before you put the carbs back on the bike....Attach a shop vac to the engine side of each carb in turn....Operate the throttle and look at each slide...verify they do actually slide up as the throttle is opened.
They may not go all the way to the top but should move equally the same....nice and smooth.....

I found one sticking on mine after a complete service....Just rotating the cap 180* fixed it...

If your really anal...You can fill the carbs by the fuel line to be certain they don't leak and drain each carb and measure the amount of gas in each one....I did find on a Oooold bike that 1 carb had more gas than the others...It ran funny too....A minor adjustment fixed that problem too.
The wrong fuel level affects the running mixture...I had to lower the floats by just 2mm. in my 88 to clear a rich condition from idle to 1200 rpm....(i changed the slow jets)

[Wingsconsin]

Should one "lube" the slides with anything on reassembly..?

When I did the 650 I used a light oil ...but I don't think it was necessary....

[virgilmobile]

Everybody says absolutely no lube on the slides.Dust sticks to it.

[Wingsconsin]

Everybody says absolutely no lube on the slides.Dust sticks to it.

Thanks - That's good information..This is my 2nd ever carb rebuild and I learn something everytime I do one...
The 650 seems to be working just fine right now although I have it running a little rich and the carb synch seems a bit off...
But that bike had not run in YEARS and YEARS so gettin it going was exciting...
I will go back & retune that one once the GL1100 is finished....

It will be nice to see what my son says about it once it is running well...

[virgilmobile]

I also suggest that you do a mechanical sync of the throttle valves while there off the bike

[Wingsconsin]

I also suggest that you do a mechanical sync of the throttle valves while there off the bike

Bench synch...? Of the butterflys...? Are we talking the same thing...?

[attachment=0]52static1.jpg[/attachment]

[80-GL100-INT]

If your really anal...You can fill the carbs by the fuel line to be certain they don't leak and drain each carb and measure the amount of gas in each one....I did find on a Oooold bike that 1 carb had more gas than the others...It ran funny too....A minor adjustment fixed that problem too.
The wrong fuel level affects the running mixture...I had to lower the floats by just 2mm. in my 88 to clear a rich condition from idle to 1200 rpm....(i changed the slow jets)

This is not being anal...This is a good idea for any carb rebuild. I have an old gas tank off of a riding mower that I built a stand for, fuel line w/petcock drops down to plug into just about any carb, gravity feeds it so that I can fill them and check for leaks. It's been in storage for about a year (from a move) and I just recently cleaned out the unit. As soon as I get it dug out of the box it's hiding in I'll post a pic. I need to do it soon as I'm in the middle of a rebuild on mine too.

[virgilmobile]

Yup.pre adjust.easier to do a vacuum sync later.

Bench synch...? Of the butterflys...? Are we talking the same thing...?

[attachment=0]52static1.jpg[/attachment]
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[SteveB123]

http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12168
This was my go-to resource when I did mine.
Minor differences as you've got pressed in idle jets, but the basics are VERY well covered here.

[Wingsconsin]

It RUNS !
Problem areas :
Idle adjustment screws set wrong - 1 broken
Floats set at ..? Way to much...
Now floats are dead on at 15.5 ....
The results...? First crank video below....Watch my son and I as we get his 'Wing going...
(Many thanks to those who offered opinions and guidance...)



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[virgilmobile]

You did we'll ( except the hi 5 part) but I think you we're excited too,twisting the throttle and all.

[RBGERSON]

Idle screw broke?? if the tip broke off in the carb you've got issues..usually the carb is trash because teh tip is stuck in the carb???..so what broke exactly.

[Wingsconsin]

Idle screw broke?? if the tip broke off in the carb you've got issues..usually the carb is trash because teh tip is stuck in the carb???..so what broke exactly.

The 'head' ...The tip that sticks out with the screw and limiter cap on it.
I carefully cleaned and inspected the carbs while they were disassembled and I know those holes are open...
I DID have to use a reverse drill screw take out to get it out -- but it came out easy once I got a bite on it.
But because it was broken it was not adjustable in any way...So I ordered 4 new ones instead.

The next issue is the hard starting - the starter turns over slowly and with some difficulty , actually pulling the battery down even though the battery is brand new..I think we will pull the starter and clean it up ...and check the ground for connectivity...

[Wingsconsin]

You did we'll ( except the hi 5 part) but I think you we're excited too,twisting the throttle and all.

You noticed....

HA ha ha ha ha .....I can't believe how quickly that thing NOW throttles UP to 6000 RPM....
Before the cleaning it wouldn't do that without bogging down....
It will get even better once we get to vacuum synch (although the bench synch worked pretty well)
And then to RUN IT...!

[virgilmobile]

The 1100 starter has 3 bushings and a planetary gear drive.there usually not difficult to service and moly lube.
Keep us up to date.

[Wingsconsin]

The 1100 starter has 3 bushings and a planetary gear drive.there usually not difficult to service and moly lube.
Keep us up to date.

As we worked last night toward the carb re-install ( a PIA in my opinion) we discussed this bike...
It is getting better & better as we work towards completing the "deferred" maintenance that the Previous owner simply didn't do.
(I think his job was affected and he couldn't afford to do it).
But since we got it last fall....
All new caliperm rebuilds, brakes and Master cylinders
All fluids - radiator - brakes - oils - final drive -- etc.
New Spark Plugs - New air filter -
New driven flange
New Travelcade seat
Rewired all the electronics
New fuse box rewire & replacement upgrade to blade fuses
Added Lighting
Added J & M CB radio -new antenna(s)
New Tires -
New hard cover on right hand pocket (replacing cracked one)
Some polishing and waxing

The list seems to go on & on....But the bike is getting closer to perfect every time we do something....

Starter refresh - cleaning --Next on the list
Then find and replace the weather stripping on the saddlebags...
Carb Cleaning & rebuild

[tunaboy]

Hey Wingsconsin,
I too have a '80 wing and I do get about 40 mpg if I don't drive hard and go 60-65 mph. I don't run ethanol but not sure if you can get the regular gas in Sussex. The '80's 1100's are geared lower, almost 4000 RPM at 60 mph, the newer ones pull about 70 mph at 4000 rpm. I have changed, replaced or serviced: belts, fuel lines and filter, pulled the radiator and replaced hoses and anti-freeze, spark plugs,wires and caps, stainless steel brake lines, serviced final drive, etc. I was having problem getting my carbs to sync so pulled them off and did some minor cleaning and bench synced. The bike runs so good and idles great. I don't plan on trying to sync with mercury gauges. I am looking at the progressive springs for the forks next. Sometimes the starter labors a bit but the more I ride the bike the less it seems to be an issue. I have run 2 tanks of Seafoam through it and admit that I think it helped. I have also run 4-5 oz of ATF in the gas and do think that the bike runs noticeably stronger.
( guy that I rolled on with a "hot" Harley Big Twin would agree with the stronger statement) I am not sure why the ATF adds to the performance but I am not complaining. These are really nice old bikes!
P.S. My pilot valves are out 2 turns and check the 3 yellow wires that go to the stator.

[Wingsconsin]

Thanks tunaboy for the encouragement ...

Got the carbs synched tonight ...
I really want to clean the starter now...
So the test ride is gonna have to wait..idle adjustment screws out 1-1/2 turns...
Synching was tough ...much trial and errors to get it right
Synching 1-3 and 2-4 was easy but left to right ....
Got it really close and thats gonna have to be good enough...

Racecar running will be soon ...!!!

.

[Wingsconsin]

Starter has been removed from the bike...a good cleaning is in progress...
Hopefully it can be finsihed today and the bike started much more easily....
Further progress reports forthcoming

[hazarika]

Didn't want to start a new thread, hence tacking on to this one.

Rebuilding a 1980 GL1100 carb. Not sure if the two parts,

are for the 1980 GL1100?

Thanks

Kem

[winguyjo]

the brass piece on the rights is the jet into which the slide needle moves up and down.
it sits inside the throat of the carb on the bottom. i can't recall whether it is installed from the underside of though the venturi.

the other piece is a mystery ... is it really "silver" in colour as it appears in the pic, or is it a brass jet ?

[hazarika]

Thanks. The other one is silver in color looks like some sort of a plug.

[winguyjo]

the only thing i can think of that comes close would be the float bowl drain screw, but those are brass. it's possible that a previous owner lost one and used that as a substitute, but if all 4 of your float bowl drain screws are accounted for, then i am officially out of ideas.