Replacing original rear Master cylinder with A Brembo.

[Cookindad]

So I gave it a valiant effort to repair and or replace my tired OLD original rear Master cylinder, NOT happening. Went to a well known 2nd hand cycle parts store and bought a gently used Brembo off a Yamaha. Different bolt pattern. I made a bracket out of some aluminum stock I had laying around. Just about to get it on the bike. Any suggestions or warnings would as always be appreciated.

[maintainer]

Color me, interested.
Post pictures
Please elaborate on the mod, sounds intriguing.

[ankgrays]

No advice, but VERY interested!!

[Cookindad]

So I gave it a valiant effort to repair and or replace my tired OLD original rear Master cylinder, NOT happening. Went to a well known 2nd hand cycle parts store and bought a gently used Brembo off a Yamaha. Different bolt pattern. I made a bracket out of some aluminum stock I had laying around. Just about to get it on the bike. Any suggestions or warnings would as always be appreciated.

Never posted pics on here but here goes nuthin.

[spiralout]

Have you mounted this yet? Did the angle work out? What about the length of the push rod? Lots of questions! Post pics of it mounted, too, if you would.

[Cookindad]

Been working at my day job all weekend, I hope to get it all put together Monday. As for the angle, it looks to be very close. I did have to use the original push rod to get the length I needed. I am cautiously optimistic. Victory shall be mine, Pics to follow.

[vtxcandyred]

About the only advice I can think of is to be gebtle when you put the bike back on the road. I'm wondering WHAT could have been so wrong with the old one that you felt the need to go a different route instead of rebuilding. ???

[Cookindad]

Sorry to report this adaptor plate was an epic failure. Major clearance issues all around. I am not defeated, merely challenged!!!!

[spiralout]

Maybe this will give you some ideas http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=44934

[LittleGoldy]

Found a REAL Direct Replacement Rear Master Cylinder that is plug and play for the 80-83 Old Wing. Brass Body with 45mm mounting holes. Perfect for that project and the best part is the PRICE. No not 150.00, not 100.00 but basically 20 bucks. Down side is it comes from China. You can buy 2 of them for what the kit to rebuild your old one cost. I'm rolling the dice and will advise. For 20 smackeroo's ya just almost can't go wrong. Found a brand new Master Front cylinder same price roughly. Direct replacement. Down side........... if your proportioning valve is questionable (83 Model) you will have to revert to old style no linked brakes. The front is available as a 14 mm piston or 16 mm but the 16mm line mount is on front side. May have to adapt it if that's what you want.
For forty bucks I save 130-170 bucks over rebuilding what may be a questionable rebuildable part. I also consulted a few of the "experts" in Europe and they said the quality has vastly improved on these and they use them as direct replacements as well. Wanna spend a day ripping apart those old ones and rebuilding them? Think I will do that and save em for any anticipated problems. Hope all works out well and I will come back after install and test ride to evaluate.

[boyackp]

Found a REAL Direct Replacement Rear Master Cylinder that is plug and play for the 80-83 Old Wing. Brass Body with 45mm mounting holes.

LINK PLEASE!! I need one as well, my rear MC is toast. Was gunna retrofit an aftermarket one but would love a direct replacement.

[LAB3]

Found a REAL Direct Replacement Rear Master Cylinder that is plug and play for the 80-83 Old Wing. Brass Body with 45mm mounting holes. Perfect for that project and the best part is the PRICE.

You'll find out like both myself and the person who started this thread that it'll take some "Cobbling" like the bracket he made to get it to work. Mine does the job just fine although I needed to unlink (83) my brakes to do it.

[LittleGoldy]

Found a REAL Direct Replacement Rear Master Cylinder that is plug and play for the 80-83 Old Wing. Brass Body with 45mm mounting holes.

LINK PLEASE!! I need one as well, my rear MC is toast. Was gunna retrofit an aftermarket one but would love a direct replacement.

Link as Requested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/373547126286?V ... 86&vxp=mtr

[VizualXTC]

Sorry to report this adaptor plate was an epic failure. Major clearance issues all around. I am not defeated, merely challenged!!!!

Any news on this? I'm very interested because my proportioning valve is broken and so I'm thinking of a whole new custom setup.

[LittleGoldy]

Any news on this? I'm very interested because my proportioning valve is broken and so I'm thinking of a whole new custom setup.

I just bought a Wildwood Proportioning valve and will be re-building my brakes this week. IF you are a prime member you can save 25% by ordering Wilwood 4444/30 260-11179 Proportioning Valve on Amazon. It is a lil larger than original and will need some brake line replacing (tubing bender and flare nut tool required) and has a additional front input that needs to be blanked off (front in/Front Out) The beauty is this proportioning valve is ADJUSTABLE but needs to be tested before spirited riding. Hell you should not ride until it is confirmed working properly.

In addition, I thought about linking ALL the front brakes, but, my partner recommended I keep 1 brake separate from the system in the event of failure I can still get stopped. Hence the reason for blanking off 1 front input.

[VizualXTC]

Any news on this? I'm very interested because my proportioning valve is broken and so I'm thinking of a whole new custom setup.

I just bought a Wildwood Proportioning valve and will be re-building my brakes this week. IF you are a prime member you can save 25% by ordering Wilwood 4444/30 260-11179 Proportioning Valve on Amazon. It is a lil larger than original and will need some brake line replacing (tubing bender and flare nut tool required) and has a additional front input that needs to be blanked off (front in/Front Out) The beauty is this proportioning valve is ADJUSTABLE but needs to be tested before spirited riding. Hell you should not ride until it is confirmed working properly.

In addition, I thought about linking ALL the front brakes, but, my partner recommended I keep 1 brake separate from the system in the event of failure I can still get stopped. Hence the reason for blanking off 1 front input.

My intention is to forego the proportioning valve and unlink the rear and front brakes. I might go with an '82 splitter on the front, but most likely will just go the double banjo bolt route. Then I just need to run a single line from the rear master to the caliper. Since the rear master does not use a banjo (iirc) I would like to explore other options for a rear master cylinder.

[LittleGoldy]

Interesting. I have heard both pro's and con's to your proposition of unlinking them. We each must make our choices and live by them. I do not blame anyone for trying to de-mystify the problems and challenges presented. IMHO having 2 rotors on the front by a hand grip lever may tend to cause lockup under Panic Mode or under powered brakes due to the MC Bore size being a touch too small for that setup. I went with a Factory Set up because it is a more controlled braking scenario and reduces panic lock up under duress. I also thought about linking all of them with the "New" wildwood set up cause it has dual front Input/outputs and a single rear. However, under the most horrendous scenario of a brake failure, leaving 1 brake (front) separate from the linked design actually will keep the ability to stop though perhaps not in time, (ugh), under a failed linked design.
My only real issue is I have an 82 Aspencade and an 83 Interstate and the differences are quit maddening, frustrating and you have to build a data file to keep the damn numbers right....sigh.