TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
  • Sponsored Links
User avatar
velvetrider
Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:38 am
Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by velvetrider » Sat Sep 12, 2015 2:59 pm



OK,,,I am not positive that I have TDC. and the heads are back on. I have installed the cam and rocker arm assembley, but the pulleys do not match same position in which I removed um. Honda book says not to rotate pulleys with the belts off, as it may cause bent valves or damage pistons.
When I removed the belts I marked both tooth locations on the belt at TDC.

A lot has transpired so no I am not sure if I have TDC or TDX.?? I suspect either way the pulleys are not going to line up as they should. I never removed the cam from the carrier, but am not sure that the cam did not get turned. Do I have to pull rocker and cam out and spin to correct place?
Even still I have to be certain about TDC. I have loosened rockers all the way out, but feel I could cause some serious problems if not careful. I have written so much on here about my head gasket/valve job that I am certain I will qualify as the village idiot. Backing off 90* on the crank should eliminate any possible damage as all pistons will be lower. I guess I just have to put crank where I think TDC is, adjust the valves and see, I got a better than 50-50 chance I am right.,,lol


Last edited by velvetrider on Sat Sep 12, 2015 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
spiralout
Posts: 1202
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:41 pm
Location: Alabama
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 (gone)
1980 GL1100I (with '77 1000 engine)
1996 GL1500 SE

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by spiralout » Sat Sep 12, 2015 5:11 pm

If you're that worried about turning the cam pulley to get it lined up, back the motor up 90 degrees first, line up your cam pulley, then bring the motor back to TDC.

User avatar
velvetrider
Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:38 am
Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by velvetrider » Sat Sep 12, 2015 5:36 pm

yea I got that part figured out,,90* takes the problem away. However, when I go back to TDC how do I know if it is not TDX? The valves have been completely unadjusted so the usual "#1 rocker should move" will not apply. Thanks for the help though.
you guys roc.!

User avatar
spiralout
Posts: 1202
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:41 pm
Location: Alabama
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 (gone)
1980 GL1100I (with '77 1000 engine)
1996 GL1500 SE

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by spiralout » Sat Sep 12, 2015 9:18 pm

You went back and edited your first post after we both replied. Don't make this more confusing!!!
This is why you mark the crank pulley and case before pulling the belts :P
If you're on the T1 mark on the flywheel, the #1 and #2 pistons are both going to be at the top of their stroke. Just back the crank off from there so that the valves aren't going to hit when you turn both cam pulleys in to place then turn the crank back to T1. The crank doesn't determine TDC, the valve train does. Apologies if this doesn't make sense, but after all it's Sat night and drinking time ;)

User avatar
velvetrider
Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:38 am
Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by velvetrider » Sun Sep 13, 2015 7:16 am

Cheers Spiralout, thanks. You be right, But If I happened to rotate crank and lost track of TDC,
(I do think I got the rotation right) but for argument sake, Is there any other way to determine TDC?

indianakid
Posts: 198
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:28 pm
Location: long beach, ca
Motorcycle: 83 GL1100 I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by indianakid » Sun Sep 13, 2015 11:46 am

spiralout was correct in his first post. and a little off in his second. the crank determines Top Dead Center (TDC on mark T1). with the crank at TDC and belts off turning the cams will damage the valves. that is why the crank is turned back approximately 90 degrees to move the pistons away from the head / valves so the cams can be rotated to their correct position with the words UP in the up position and timing marks aligned. now the crank can be rotated back to the T1 mark with out damage to the valves. now the belts can be installed.

User avatar
spiralout
Posts: 1202
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:41 pm
Location: Alabama
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 (gone)
1980 GL1100I (with '77 1000 engine)
1996 GL1500 SE

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by spiralout » Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:19 pm

indianakid wrote:spiralout was correct in his first post. and a little off in his second. the crank determines Top Dead Center (TDC on mark T1). with the crank at TDC and belts off turning the cams will damage the valves. that is why the crank is turned back approximately 90 degrees to move the pistons away from the head / valves so the cams can be rotated to their correct position with the words UP in the up position and timing marks aligned. now the crank can be rotated back to the T1 mark with out damage to the valves. now the belts can be installed.
Sorry, I should have said TDC on the compression stroke of the piston, (how often do you refer to TDC as the top of the exhaust stroke?) which is all that matters here, is determined by your cams and valves. Of course the #1 and #2's pistons highest point in it's travel is going to be T1 on the flywheel. What determines whether that highest point in it's travel is going to be compression or exhaust strokes is your cam timing and valve position. OP's problem is determining whether #1 is at the top of it's compression or exhaust stroke. I'm trying to say that it doesn't matter. That will be determined by the camshaft position.

User avatar
velvetrider
Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:38 am
Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by velvetrider » Sun Sep 13, 2015 1:34 pm

Soo,,,I guess there is no TDX, (exhaust stroke) as long as T1 mark is aligned as the valves can now be set as a compression stroke, regardless of which rotation is. As long a TDC is backed up 90* and pulleys are set in the up position. I did all this,, both pulleys set at 90* then back to TDC and set the valves,,or tried to. #1 intake & exhaust, #3 exhaust & #4 intake. Then tried to rotate 360* and do the other side. Problem is crank will not rotate but about 240*, I am at a loss as to why this has occurred. ?? Needless to say I have adjusted these valves, oh I guess 7/ 8 times. It is not like I just got this bike I have put over 65K on it. I obviously have done something wrong. any suggestions. ??

User avatar
702scottc
Posts: 330
Joined: Tue May 15, 2012 12:12 am
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate (sold)
1990 GL1500 Aspencade (sold)
2005 GL1800

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by 702scottc » Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:21 am

Make sure you are using the correct marks on the cam gears, sounds like you have one side on the wrong Mark.

User avatar
velvetrider
Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:38 am
Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by velvetrider » Mon Sep 14, 2015 9:43 am

Scottc, Thanks,, you were right. Pulley on 1 & 3 was not preloaded before I put the belt on. I thought I had it because I had marked the belt before I removed them. I did it because I wanted to be sure belt was in same teeth. I am not changing the belts and it seemed like the "right" way to go.
As you obviously know, where the belt is on the pulley is not nearly as critical as where it is on the crank. I was one tooth out.. Thanks.

User avatar
702scottc
Posts: 330
Joined: Tue May 15, 2012 12:12 am
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate (sold)
1990 GL1500 Aspencade (sold)
2005 GL1800

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by 702scottc » Mon Sep 14, 2015 10:09 am

Good to hear you figured it out. I always did the left side first, keeps the crankshaft from turning when you are setting the rh belt over the cam gear. It's under some spring tension but it's an easy job once you've done it once or twice. Be sure and recheck your marks in relation to the crankshaft mark before you put the belt covers back on. Should be good for many miles.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:14 am

Guys,

sorry to re-awaken a 3-year-old post, but I'm running into a similar issue. I recently bought a 1980 GL1100 that was running just fine, other than that it was idling kind of high. I proceeded to change the timing belts and had it at TDC, and the timing belt wheels were lined up. At one point I thought that the right wheel was a little off when I took the belt off, mind you I clamped the timing wheels down so that they would not move when taking off the belt. when I unclamped the wheel it obviously moved a hair off the lined up marks, but I was able to get it lined back up, clamp it down and then proceeded to put the new belts on. I should have noticed the TDC mark at the time, but I didn't.

I buttoned everything up and I was starting the bike and it was turning over but was not starting, I believe has to do with my carburetor after I did a rebuild. I waited for about an hour or so, and came back to the bike and tried to start. it would not turn over, and I've had issues with my battery, so I suspected this is where the issue was. well for the heck of it, i just wanted to make sure the engine was still rotating so I opened the cover on the back of the stator, and rotated it clockwise to make sure, and it rotated just fine until i got to the F1 mark, and it had a little roughness getting passed that, and it jumped past the TDC mark just a hair, but when I looked at the timing belt wheels, they are lined up on the notches, so in the process of changing the belts, I think it got rotated just a little beyond TDC.

I was reading this post, it I'm hoping that according to the information here that I can correct this alignment. in my longwinded description above, the question I wanted to ask is when moving back 90 degrees from TDC, I need to have the belts off, and I need to rotate Counter-clockwise 90 degrees from TDC? if this is correct, once I have it at TDC, what is the best method to rotate the timing wheels to line up? I know there is a bolt on the front of the wheels, would that be the way to go?

DaveO430
Posts: 1056
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by DaveO430 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:26 am

Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:14 am
Guys,

sorry to re-awaken a 3-year-old post, but I'm running into a similar issue. I recently bought a 1980 GL1100 that was running just fine, other than that it was idling kind of high. I proceeded to change the timing belts and had it at TDC, and the timing belt wheels were lined up. At one point I thought that the right wheel was a little off when I took the belt off, mind you I clamped the timing wheels down so that they would not move when taking off the belt. when I unclamped the wheel it obviously moved a hair off the lined up marks, but I was able to get it lined back up, clamp it down and then proceeded to put the new belts on. I should have noticed the TDC mark at the time, but I didn't.

I buttoned everything up and I was starting the bike and it was turning over but was not starting, I believe has to do with my carburetor after I did a rebuild. I waited for about an hour or so, and came back to the bike and tried to start. it would not turn over, and I've had issues with my battery, so I suspected this is where the issue was. well for the heck of it, i just wanted to make sure the engine was still rotating so I opened the cover on the back of the stator, and rotated it clockwise to make sure, and it rotated just fine until i got to the F1 mark, and it had a little roughness getting passed that, and it jumped past the TDC mark just a hair, but when I looked at the timing belt wheels, they are lined up on the notches, so in the process of changing the belts, I think it got rotated just a little beyond TDC.

I was reading this post, it I'm hoping that according to the information here that I can correct this alignment. in my longwinded description above, the question I wanted to ask is when moving back 90 degrees from TDC, I need to have the belts off, and I need to rotate Counter-clockwise 90 degrees from TDC? if this is correct, once I have it at TDC, what is the best method to rotate the timing wheels to line up? I know there is a bolt on the front of the wheels, would that be the way to go?
You had a hydro-lock, one or more of the carbs is flooding over and filling one or more cylinders with gas. Don't remove the belts, just turn it to T1 and check the marks. If the UP mark on the pulleys are at the bottom turn it 360º back to T1 and recheck.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 12:03 pm

DaveO430 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:26 am
Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:14 am
Guys,

sorry to re-awaken a 3-year-old post, but I'm running into a similar issue. I recently bought a 1980 GL1100 that was running just fine, other than that it was idling kind of high. I proceeded to change the timing belts and had it at TDC, and the timing belt wheels were lined up. At one point I thought that the right wheel was a little off when I took the belt off, mind you I clamped the timing wheels down so that they would not move when taking off the belt. when I unclamped the wheel it obviously moved a hair off the lined up marks, but I was able to get it lined back up, clamp it down and then proceeded to put the new belts on. I should have noticed the TDC mark at the time, but I didn't.

I buttoned everything up and I was starting the bike and it was turning over but was not starting, I believe has to do with my carburetor after I did a rebuild. I waited for about an hour or so, and came back to the bike and tried to start. it would not turn over, and I've had issues with my battery, so I suspected this is where the issue was. well for the heck of it, i just wanted to make sure the engine was still rotating so I opened the cover on the back of the stator, and rotated it clockwise to make sure, and it rotated just fine until i got to the F1 mark, and it had a little roughness getting passed that, and it jumped past the TDC mark just a hair, but when I looked at the timing belt wheels, they are lined up on the notches, so in the process of changing the belts, I think it got rotated just a little beyond TDC.

I was reading this post, it I'm hoping that according to the information here that I can correct this alignment. in my longwinded description above, the question I wanted to ask is when moving back 90 degrees from TDC, I need to have the belts off, and I need to rotate Counter-clockwise 90 degrees from TDC? if this is correct, once I have it at TDC, what is the best method to rotate the timing wheels to line up? I know there is a bolt on the front of the wheels, would that be the way to go?
You had a hydro-lock, one or more of the carbs is flooding over and filling one or more cylinders with gas. Don't remove the belts, just turn it to T1 and check the marks. If the UP mark on the pulleys are at the bottom turn it 360º back to T1 and recheck.
Dave0430,

I immediately ran home from work to check, and it seems that whenever I get close to the TDC mark, just before it is the F Mark, it seems to bind up just a little bit, and when I get thru it, it bypasses the TDC mark by a tiny margin and everything on the timing belts are lined up. I mean, I'm trying to slowly get to the TDC mark, but when it gets there, seems to free up and roll past it, buy a tiny fraction and when it does, we are all lined up again. I took off the valve covers to see if there was anything off, but it all looks ok?

DaveO430
Posts: 1056
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by DaveO430 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:22 pm

Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 12:03 pm


Dave0430,

I immediately ran home from work to check, and it seems that whenever I get close to the TDC mark, just before it is the F Mark, it seems to bind up just a little bit, and when I get thru it, it bypasses the TDC mark by a tiny margin and everything on the timing belts are lined up. I mean, I'm trying to slowly get to the TDC mark, but when it gets there, seems to free up and roll past it, buy a tiny fraction and when it does, we are all lined up again. I took off the valve covers to see if there was anything off, but it all looks ok?
Take the spark plugs out.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:28 pm

I guess my question is if I'm rotating the engine from the back "Clockwise":

1. when one says "turn the engine 90 * degrees from TDC" am I turning it clockwise? would assume so, but i just want to make sure. also, how does one tell if the pistons have backed off?
2. if I do turn it 90 degrees from TDC, am I doing this from the standpoint that the belts are off, or, are they still on when I back it off?

I apologize in advance, I'm new to the GL1100, so I'm sure that my questions are a little mediocre to some of you advanced folks. I just want to make sure that I can get the TDC and the timing notches lined up in unison.

DaveO430
Posts: 1056
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by DaveO430 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:40 pm

Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:28 pm
I guess my question is if I'm rotating the engine from the back "Clockwise":

1. when one says "turn the engine 90 * degrees from TDC" am I turning it clockwise? would assume so, but i just want to make sure. also, how does one tell if the pistons have backed off?
2. if I do turn it 90 degrees from TDC, am I doing this from the standpoint that the belts are off, or, are they still on when I back it off?

I apologize in advance, I'm new to the GL1100, so I'm sure that my questions are a little mediocre to some of you advanced folks. I just want to make sure that I can get the TDC and the timing notches lined up in unison.
First off, turn it by the crankshaft bolt since you have the covers off, the rotor bolt in the rear is not a direct 1 to 1 ratio, it turns the crank farther than you turn the bolt, makes it much harder to make small adjustments. You DO NOT need to take the belts back off if you have the marks pretty close already.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:01 pm

DaveO430 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:40 pm
Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 1:28 pm
I guess my question is if I'm rotating the engine from the back "Clockwise":

1. when one says "turn the engine 90 * degrees from TDC" am I turning it clockwise? would assume so, but i just want to make sure. also, how does one tell if the pistons have backed off?
2. if I do turn it 90 degrees from TDC, am I doing this from the standpoint that the belts are off, or, are they still on when I back it off?

I apologize in advance, I'm new to the GL1100, so I'm sure that my questions are a little mediocre to some of you advanced folks. I just want to make sure that I can get the TDC and the timing notches lined up in unison.
First off, turn it by the crankshaft bolt since you have the covers off, the rotor bolt in the rear is not a direct 1 to 1 ratio, it turns the crank farther than you turn the bolt, makes it much harder to make small adjustments. You DO NOT need to take the belts back off if you have the marks pretty close already.
So Dave,

if cranking it from the back is not a direct 1 to 1 relationship, and I'm only off by a tiny variance, is it possible that i'm really on the mark, but not getting a true and accurate reading?

DaveO430
Posts: 1056
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by DaveO430 » Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:27 am

Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:01 pm


So Dave,

if cranking it from the back is not a direct 1 to 1 relationship, and I'm only off by a tiny variance, is it possible that i'm really on the mark, but not getting a true and accurate reading?
No, that's not it at all. It's just that the less than 1-1 ratio makes it harder to get the crank to the desired position, it doesn't change where the mark is.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:16 am

DaveO430 wrote:
Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:27 am
Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:01 pm


So Dave,

if cranking it from the back is not a direct 1 to 1 relationship, and I'm only off by a tiny variance, is it possible that I'm really on the mark, but not getting a true and accurate reading?
No, that's not it at all. It's just that the less than 1-1 ratio makes it harder to get the crank to the desired position, it doesn't change where the mark is.
Yeah,

i figured that was the case. I've actually been reading up on the whole Hydro-lock issue, and I've not tried to blow out the ports yet. Will try that today.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Fri Aug 03, 2018 9:45 am

Rc67 wrote:
Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:16 am
DaveO430 wrote:
Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:27 am
Rc67 wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:01 pm


So Dave,

if cranking it from the back is not a direct 1 to 1 relationship, and I'm only off by a tiny variance, is it possible that I'm really on the mark, but not getting a true and accurate reading?
No, that's not it at all. It's just that the less than 1-1 ratio makes it harder to get the crank to the desired position, it doesn't change where the mark is.
Yeah,

I figured that was the case. I've actually been reading up on the whole Hydro-lock issue, and I've not tried to blow out the ports yet. Will try that today.
Dave0430,

last night I got onto the forum and started scouring to find out clear the hydrolock issue. I was able to crank the motor with the spark plugs out and the Start switch set to "OFF"
and the motor cranked but was still a bit sluggish. I read where someone suggested spraying a little WD40 down the spark plug ports and let it sit overnight and then hand crank the motor. I followed the instructions, and sure enough, the motor cranks a lot easier now, but when I get to the TDC mark, it still bounces slightly past and then the Timing wheels are lined up. this time I watched the orientation of the timing wheels and the TDC mark and I finally got it at the TDC line, and when I looked at my timing wheels they were a few Degrees off of alignment, I mean minutely.

what would be the best method to get Wheels lined up with the TDC Mark? I am little confused by the 90* turn as well?

User avatar
DenverWinger
Posts: 520
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: 1980 GL-1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL-1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL-1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by DenverWinger » Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:31 am

By "a few degrees off alignment" if you mean less than one timing belt cog, then you are OK.

On my 1100 the timing marks don't line up 'exactly' either, but if I were to adjust the belt by one cog in either direction they would be much farther off.... There's no way to get them any closer than that.

The 1100 will run if a timing belt is off +/- one cog, it just won't run 'right'.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:48 am

DenverWinger wrote:
Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:31 am
By "a few degrees off alignment" if you mean less than one timing belt cog, then you are OK.

On my 1100 the timing marks don't line up 'exactly' either, but if I were to adjust the belt by one cog in either direction they would be much farther off.... There's no way to get them any closer than that.

The 1100 will run if a timing belt is off +/- one cog, it just won't run 'right'.
DenverWinger,

I believe they are only off by at least one cog, but I'm not sure because I'm at work at the moment. I manage to get it set to TDC before I left work this morning. i will double-check when i get home.

DaveO430
Posts: 1056
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by DaveO430 » Fri Aug 03, 2018 7:04 pm

Rc67 wrote:
Fri Aug 03, 2018 9:45 am

what would be the best method to get Wheels lined up with the TDC Mark? I am little confused by the 90* turn as well?
Don't worry about the 90* thing, you only need to do that if you need to turn the cams completely around.

User avatar
Rc67
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 6:26 pm
Location: Jackson, ms
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100I

Re: TDC with heads on and timing belts off ???

Post by Rc67 » Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:36 am

Guys thanks for all the info...the cam wheels are exactly one cog off TDC...pulled the carb again, to see what carburetor bowl was flooding and found carb 3 float needle spring was not springing back freely. Going to buy a new kit and carefully bench test carbs, before installing it back on the engine, pulling the Carbs can be painful, especially in this muggy Mississippi weather :D



Post Reply