Help How to remove exhaust

[robertdawber]

I need to remove the exhaust-
Before I even look at it I figured I would ask for advice.
Thanks folks
Bob

[RBGERSON]

Easy to do..remove four nuts on headers each side, remove rear bolt on the hanger, and drop them..you can remove center pipe clamp and separate the two sides too. and do one at a time.

[leanjoe]

spray all the fasteners with pb blaster a little while before you try and crack em.

[zvacman]

PB Blaster is the trick. I would spray all fasteners several times over a 24 hour period. I have used that stuff for years on bolts that I would have bet would snap off and they didn't!

Z

[WingAdmin]

When I have stuff that's really corroded and stuck, I will spray it every few hours with PB Blaster over the course of a day or two, and it never fails to work.

[robertdawber]

Speaking of this original post....
I pulled down the pipes-they did not have any gaskets in them-do you all use gaskets? I had already bought them and put them in.
Also, there is a hole, about the size of a pencil eraser, midway down the pipe-
Anyone ever have success repairing such a thing?
Bob

[zvacman]

I have been using JB Weld high temp on my falling apart exhaust. I just want to get through the summer with it then replace it over the winter. So far it has held everywhere I have put it.

Z

[RBGERSON]

Put a sheet metal screw in it..coated with JB weld or epoxy or nothing...

[dummysales]

Is there anywhere on this site showing how to reinstall stock exhaust on my ‘83 Aspencade 1100? Can’t find any YouTube, either.

My problem is after getting the center pipe coupled (no clamp yet) and the left side mounted, the right side rear bracket of the pipe needs to go behind the frame to clear the frame bracket on the outside. I’ve tried prying it, but don’t want to force it beyond a mild effort.

Is there a procedure that overcomes this stress issue?

[DenverWinger]

Sounds like you have the right side bolted to the head already.

I've had best luck with the left and right sides laying on the ground under the bike, with the two sides ALREADY coupled at the center pipe. Lift and install as a complete unit, get the headers onto the exhaust studs and loosely thread one nut onto a stud on each side to keep the headers from falling off the head. This leave the assembly hanging from the heads but still loose enough so you can finagle the rear mount brackets where they need to go.

Then tighten everything up.

[dummysales]

Thanks, Denverwinger. That’s the basic form I followed. Not much finagle room left after getting the header installed in the bolts.

Thinking maybe if I drop both sides again and put the brackets on first I may have better luck next time getting the header plates over the bolts without grinding the threads.

Waj

[DenverWinger]

Did you leave the rear brackets attached to the mufflers? Probably easier with the brackets attached to the mufflers and detached from the frame (single bolt), that way you only have to install a single thru-bolt. The brackets attach to mufflers by angled studs and that could certainly cause a fight.

[dummysales]

Yes, I did remove only the system bolt and it sure did make it easier all the way around. Succeeded with the installation in rather short order this time around. Thanks for the tips. Now to solder stator wires.

[slickster]

There are copper rings in the cylinder head that act as seals, need to be replaced, a small hook will dig them out...

[DenverWinger]

Since he has it back together I wouldn't bother with the copper rings unless there's an exhaust leak.

I know you are supposed to change the rings but I never have, even after having the exhaust off several times. Still no leaks.