The old slow jets again....sigh

[manyguns]

Well, I bought an '83 Aspencade 1100 that has been sitting inside for several years. I could get it to start, but it would barely run on one or two cylinders. So, I took the carbs off to give them a cleaning. The carbs have been replaced with an older set with the push in slow jets. I have a #2 EZ out as someone suggested. I tapped it in but the jet doesn't want to turn and I'm afraid that the bit will break and I'll be up a creek. I sprayed PB Blaster down in the jet and let it set for a day before I tried the EZ out. It didn't seem to help. I tried the drywall screw, too and it won't move. Any suggestions? I don't want to ruin the carbs. Would a heat gun get hot enough to help? I'm thinking not. Ugh! I hate carbs.

[Aussie81Interstate]

Do you have access to an ultra sonic cleaner? They can assist if the jets are blocked. I have no personal experience with the pressed in jets, and I would shy away from using an ezy out - have had previous bad experience with them...

[manyguns]

I do have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I'm not sure that would do it. I can get them clean, but the problem is getting them out without ruining them.

[mytown]

Looks like youtube has a few videos that should help. Here's one...
[YouTube]

   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!
[/YouTube]
I've often read to use only a high quality easy out when going that route because of the risk of it snapping. Not sure what that would be at the moment, Snap-on maybe? You probably will want to determine the hole size of the jet. That info is out there somewhere. When I cleaned mine I used a properly sized drill bit and turned it carefully by hand. That was several years ago, that was about all I did to the carbs and the bike still runs great. [vimeo]

[manyguns]

Thanks, sounds like it made a big difference. Mine didn't run as well as yours in the "before" video, so I know they are really plugged. I think I have a pretty good quality EZ out, but I've had them break before. That's the way my luck usually runs. Maybe I'll go the drill bit route, although that won't clean out the small holes in the side of the jet.

[RBGERSON]

Rather than turning the screw or easy out wiggle it side to side while applying pressure out..acetone/atf 50/50 mix is a better solvent..try it..

[manyguns]

Yay! I got it. I sucked it up and tapped the EZ out in and carefully twisted it. They all popped loose and are now out and soaking in laquer thinner. I thought I had some Acetone, but I guess I used it all up. Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I was about to buy another set of carbs with the screw in jets. Hopefully, it will run when I put it back together.

[mytown]

Yay! I got it. I sucked it up and tapped the EZ out in and carefully twisted it. They all popped loose and are now out and soaking in laquer thinner. I thought I had some Acetone, but I guess I used it all up. Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I was about to buy another set of carbs with the screw in jets. Hopefully, it will run when I put it back together.

Congratulations. Just to clarify, I used the drill bits after the jets had been removed. (Some say that using drill bits on jets is too risky but I felt comfortable in doing so. Search around and you'll read that a guitar string can be used to ream the center hole out.) One carb expert I know insists that in many cases even the combination of chemicals and an ultrasonic cleaner cannot remove all the old varnish, etc. I believe there is a number imprinted on the side of the jets that can be used to determine the size of the center hole. On my '82 screw-in-type low jets that number is #35 which corresponds with a .0145 opening and a #79 bit from a set of small bits, not sure about the side holes.

[indianakid]

KeiHin jet sizes are metric....... #35 is .35mm #145 is 1.45mm. doing the math .35/25.4= .01378 . a #79 drill is .0145 which is slightly oversize. a #80 is .0135 and is just a bought right. so i use a .013 inch diameter guitar string. i prefer the guitar string as it is under size and wont enlarge the jet hole and it is smooth so it wont scratch or gouge the sides of the hole where as the flutes of a drill may. all i want is to clean any varnish or debris from the hole. it is also a great reason to get new strings for the guitar !!!!

[RBGERSON]

I use a needle..for the side jets too.

[manyguns]

The side jets were clear, but the centeer was really blocked. Used a wire from a wire brush to clean them. I runs and idles pretty good now but still has some hesitation when I rev it up. I have Seafoam in it and will let that work a bit to clean up any residual gunk.

[mytown]

KeiHin jet sizes are metric....... #35 is .35mm #145 is 1.45mm. doing the math .35/25.4= .01378 . a #79 drill is .0145 which is slightly oversize. a #80 is .0135 and is just a bought right. so i use a .013 inch diameter guitar string. i prefer the guitar string as it is under size and wont enlarge the jet hole and it is smooth so it wont scratch or gouge the sides of the hole where as the flutes of a drill may. all i want is to clean any varnish or debris from the hole. it is also a great reason to get new strings for the guitar !!!!

Good to know. Another approach I've used is to thread nylon fishing line through the center of the jet then spin it on the line while applying carb cleaner.

[manyguns]

Well, it seems I'm not done yet. Started it up today and it didn't run well at all. Suddenly lots of liquid started running out of the left side exhaust. I though, oh no, antifreeze! I tasted it and it tasted like gas. Mopped up a rag and touched a match to it, sure enough, gas. Took out the plugs and all looked well except #2. Turned it over with the kill switch off and it seemed to blow some liquid out of #2. When I had it apart, all the floats measured out o.k. I didn't put in new parts, just cleaned the old ones. Wondering if the needle and seat are bad in #2. Guess the carbs will have to come off one more time. I'm getting pretty good at R&R ing them.

[Aussie81Interstate]

Polish the seat with a cotton bud or Q tip dipped in thinners - until it comes out clean. Basically twist it back and forth and if it comes out dirty or any colour on it - do it again until it is clean.
Just a thought - you may need to do all 4 while you are in there - also check the needle itself for any damage - if compromised a new needle is required. Plus check your float height - you could have had a bit of crud hang up in the needle/seat area.

They do get easier the more times you have them off and on again..I think a lot of us have had similar issues - but perseverance is the key.

[manyguns]

Thanks, I will do that, Ordered a new needle just in case, too.

[manyguns]

Needle and seat in. Idles but still shows white smoke. Maybe it's residual gas left in the pipes. Anyway had to shut it off because the fuel pump vent is leaking. Could this be part of the problem? Ordered a different pump. Sigh.

[cyberlon]

The first time I took out my carbs, it took about an hour to do so. The whole time I was following along the numbered steps in the Clymer manual. Because I didn't immediately put a carb kit into it, I had to take it off another two times. The last time only took about 15 minutes to put back in and hook everything back up to it, never once referencing the manual. (I think I might have memorized it, though.) My point is, at least you are making progress, and it should only get easier as you continue to work on it.

[manyguns]

Yes, it's getting pretty easy, but tiresome. Hopefully, a different fuel pump will help. My bargain bike is turning into a money pit.

[ekvh]

I don't think anyone mentioned it yet, have you looked in the fuel tank for rust? You can clean carbs over and over, but if you keep feeding them rusty fuel, it never works long. Ask how I know. Use a mirror and look through the fuel sending unit opening. The rust is often on just the upper part of the tank. If they sit 3/4 full for a few years, the lower part of the tank which is easily seen can stay pristine. The upper part is where condensation collects and does the dirty work.

Then clean or replace the lines and filter from tank to carbs. Remove the top of the fuel pump and check for gunk in there as well. One little tiny pocket of rust can easily fill an idle jet. The fuel filter and screens do not stop rust.

[RBGERSON]

Dumping fuel has a couple of possible sources..dirty seat, bad float needle tip, floats sticking or set wrong, leaking o ring at car to plenum. Best way to check is with the carbs on a bench..leveled. caps off and fuel source at least 6' up in the air..then look down the throat of the carb(s)..if flow is up through a jet = float set wrong or float needle or seat, if in the plenum = bad o ring or plenum gasket. Most likely bad float needle rubber..especially if an aftermarket needle was installed.

fuel pump leak nothing to do with the issue, dirty gas tank or lines could be sending crap into your carbs and causing issues with the float needle seating correctly.

[manyguns]

Did the bench test after putting in a new needle and there was no overflow. Just had it idling and the fuel pump was spewing from the vent, so that has to be fixed before I go much further. I have considered the single carb option if I continue to have carb problems.

[manyguns]

Installed the used fuel pump and it fired up pretty easily. Still had white smoke, but it went away after a few minutes and it runs pretty good! Revs up o.k, etc. My theory is that the fuel pump diaphragm was leaking some fuel into the crankcase and the result was the white smoke. I had changed the oil and filter before starting it this time. It does kick back sometimes while starting it and I suspect it needs the carbs synchro'ed and maybe it has a timing issue? I have to take the carbs off one more time to replace the bowl gaskets that I should have done before (small leak) and I think I'll replace the intake O rings as well. More small steps, I guess. Thanks everyone, for the advice.

[4wred]

Carb sync a must after the work you've done!!!

[manyguns]

Yeah, I'm thinking so, too.

[Tipsy McStaggers]

Was using an easy out to remove my pressed in slow jets, and of course 3 came out no problem, then Murphy's law kicked in and the easy out broke off in the last one(#1 carb). On top of that, was trying to drill it out and was tapping the side of the carb with a piece of wood and the friggin carb cracked. Guess I'm heading to ebay. What year did they stop pressing the jets in?