Will not start


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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AlmostFamous
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 4:24 pm
Location: Kingsville,Ontario,Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I Standard

Will not start

Post by AlmostFamous »



Just to start off.
I've been to this site many many times for info, to search and read topics related to my problem. Which helped immensely.
Now I have a problem (hoping its not that bad) that I can't find on any of the topics.
I was replacing the connector to my solenoid and switched the 2 power connectors with the smaller ones and fried something. Yes sweet smoke from under the tank shroud. Replaced a wire that looked like I melted connected to the
neutral switch. Now when I turn on the ignition all the lights come on as normal but the starter will not turn over. I press the start button and nothing. I can jump the starter and it will turn over
but will not start. I switched the diode with what I think was a good one not sure how to check that, and also when I change to another gear it still shows its in neutral.
Oh yes it would help if I mentioned that it's 1982 GL1100I Standard.
Thank You


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Aussie81Interstate
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Re: Will not start

Post by Aussie81Interstate »

Sorry to hear you have an electrical problem - but you let the magic smoke out and it is difficult to get it back in.

I'm sure an intelligent response will be forthcoming - but I would not know where to start.

Good luck
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WingAdmin
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Re: Will not start

Post by WingAdmin »

Sure sounds like a short - or perhaps a blown diode, which you say you replaced. Finding out exactly what burned is going to be your first step.
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Will not start

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Just about all the Honda GWs have the same wiring and wire colour code for the starter solenoid. Here is a picture for you:


The four wires are:

Red wire - from starter solenoid to ignition switch
Red/white striped wire - to starter solenoid from regulator/rectifier for charging
Yellow/rd striped wire - from start switch to energize internal coil to send power to starter
Green/red striped wire - out to ground from starter solenoid. Completes circuit for starter. Generally goes to ground through a clutch diode so you don't have to start the bike by pulling in the clutch lever.

Your regulator/rectifier will probably have two red/white striped wires and only one at the starter solenoid. These two wires are joined together just after the wires enter the wiring harness. The same with the two green ground wires (if there are two).

This picture depicts how the starter solenoid internal coil works to get the engine started.


The wire from the start button is the yellow/red striped wire you have connected to the starter solenoid. It goes to the starter solenoid internal coil. The wire from the internal coil going to ground is the green/red striped wire that is attached to your starter solenoid. When power is supplied to the coil the internal starter solenoid switch closes and power is supplied from the battery to the starter. Doesn't matter what solenoid you use the principle is all the same.

The red/white striped wire in your pictures is the charging wire from the regulator/rectifier and should be connected to one of the starter solenoid terminals closest to the fuse as in my schematic. When the bike is running, this wire should be live and the voltage should vary depending on the bike rpm. If it does not you can run a new (I'd use 10 gauge wire) from the regulator/rectifier directly to the starter solenoid for charging.

Another check for this wire is to disconnect the connector at the regulator/rectifier. Check the voltage on the red/white wire and there may be battery voltage on it even though it is not connected at the starter solenoid (bike does not have to be started). If you have voltage on this wire, what Honda has done is spliced the red and red/white striped wires together in the wire harness.

The starter circuit on your bike should be similar to my '85 LTD. When starting the bike, power goes to the starter solenoid from the start switch (yellow/red striped wire) to energize the internal starter solenoid coil to provide power to the starter. The internal coil is grounded two ways, through the clutch diode, or through the clutch switch at the clutch lever. Here is a picture that shows the routing for my bike, but yours will be similar:


In this schematic you can follow the yellow/red striped wire from the start switch to the starter solenoid, and then the green/red striped wire to ground through either the clutch diode or the clutch lever switch.

To check the clutch diode, it should be marked with a positive and a negative pin. With a multimeter, with the positive probe on the positive pin of the diode and the negative probe on the negative pin of the diode there should be continuity. Reversing the multimeter probes, there should be no continuity.

To check the clutch switch with the wires connected:

Clutch applied (lever out): no continuity (no ground circuit)
Clutch released (lever pulled in to bar): continuity (power through ground circuit)

If you remove the clutch switch, check orientation as there may be a small protrusion that must point towards the handlebar when installed.

Switching the yellow/red striped and green/red striped wires with the red and red/white striped wires on the starter solenoid. There should be no issue with the clutch switch as it will not put power to ground unless you have the lever pulled in to disengage the clutch; however, the clutch diode may be fried.

Check the engine stop switch as well. There should be power going to and through it as it is in the start circuit before the start switch.

As has been mentioned, you need a schematic for your bike. Found one with a web search that lead me to this thread by WingAdmin - viewtopic.php?t=20434

Long post, hope it helps.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest
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AlmostFamous
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Location: Kingsville,Ontario,Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I Standard

Re: Will not start

Post by AlmostFamous »

Thank You Rednax
I will go over the those schematics some more and pay more attention to what you outlined.
I'll fill you in when I get it going.
Thank you all.
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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Will not start

Post by RBGERSON »

You may have fried youir solenoid..does it click when yoiu push the starter button??, tap on it it may release if it's stuck, if you jump the two big lugs on top does the starter spin = bad solenoid or no juice getting to it..from start button??

PS use a very heavy wire(old battery cable) or old screw driver to jump those lugs..
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB
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AlmostFamous
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Re: Will not start

Post by AlmostFamous »

OK I've tried everything so far. 2 new solenoids. The bike starts but I have to jump to terminals to get it going. Now I'm thinking the ignition switch is not feeding power to the starter button. But it is getting power to the light.
1: Should there be voltage on the yellow/red wire with key on?
2: Is it hard to clean a ignition switch?
3: Has anybody thought of bypassing the start button and installing a momentary button on the tank housing or elsewhere?

Thanks
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Will not start

Post by Rednaxs60 »

AlmostFamous wrote:OK I've tried everything so far. 2 new solenoids. The bike starts but I have to jump to terminals to get it going. Now I'm thinking the ignition switch is not feeding power to the starter button. But it is getting power to the light.
1: Should there be voltage on the yellow/red wire with key on?
2: Is it hard to clean a ignition switch?
3: Has anybody thought of bypassing the start button and installing a momentary button on the tank housing or elsewhere?

Thanks
Question #1 - there should be no power unless start switch is pushed.
Question #2 - check out this thread by virgimobile - viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35868&p=215595&hili ... ch#p215595 - page 3 - he took his ignition switch apart
Question #3 - have heard of people putting in a switch as a security issue

The ignition switch provides power to both the engine stop switch and start switch from the same wire. To test whether the start switch has power, disconnect the yellow/red striped wire from the starter solenoid and put a multimeter on the yellow/red striped wire and push the start switch with the ignition on. There should be 12 VDC. If not you may have a switch problem. If you do have 12 VDC, reconnect the yellow/red striped wire to the starter solenoid. Disconnect the green/red striped wire from the starter solenoid. Connect a multimeter to the pin that the green/red striped wire was on, with the ignition switch on push the start switch - there should be 12 VDC through the starter solenoid. If this is good, reconnect the green/red striped wire to the starter solenoid. You could also connect a new ground wire to the starter solenoid in place of the green/red striped wire and test the circuit as well. If this works, there may be an issue with the green/red striped wire to ground.

To make sure the wiring is good coming from the ignition switch, look at the coils and test the black/white striped wire that is connected to the coil. With the ignition switch on there should be 12 VDC on this wire, no voltage when the key is off.

Just some thoughts to help.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest
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AlmostFamous
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Re: Will not start

Post by AlmostFamous »

Rednax that's genius! This is why I love this forum for that last 3 years I've had this bike. I'll give that a shot.
Thank You all so much.
I'll keep you posted.
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AlmostFamous
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Re: Will not start

Post by AlmostFamous »

Thank You all for you help and direction.
It ended up being a bad clutch switch. I will order one from eBay some time this week.
Would it hurt if I just bypassed the switch temporarily or hooked a separate switch near the choke?
The bike wont start if it's not in neutral anyway.
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mytown
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Re: Will not start

Post by mytown »

AlmostFamous wrote:Thank You all for you help and direction.
It ended up being a bad clutch switch. I will order one from eBay some time this week.
Would it hurt if I just bypassed the switch temporarily or hooked a separate switch near the choke?
The bike wont start if it's not in neutral anyway.
You could bypass in such a manner provided you are certain that it cannot provide ground to solenoid, but like you said, in doing so you would not be able to start the bike if it was not in neutral. I see problems. For example, suppose the bike runs out of fuel in the "on" position while you are on a crowded highway going 65. Flipping to "reserve" then trying to shift down to neutral in order to start the bike could easily create a hazard. In using a separate switch like the one you describe you would have to in some manner throw the switch, pull the clutch, start the bike then ideally throw the switch back but yes, I think you could do that but even that sounds a bit hazardous. Of course in a pinch you can just ground the solenoid in any manner you see fit, but if not in a pinch I say why bother.


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