Brake lever pivot questions


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
Post Reply
brecchi
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2017 12:39 pm
Location: La Plata, MD
Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing GL 1100 Standard with Velorex 562 sidecar

Brake lever pivot questions

Post by brecchi »



Hello, I see that this topic has been covered but Im hoping someone could add a step by step and maybe a pic or 2.

I've got a new to me 1100 with a sidecar and took it out for the first time this evening. I couldnt figure out why the bike was shuddering coming off the line and shifting any time the rig was turning at slow speed. I stopped a couple of miles later and saw the rear brake rotor glowing orange hot. I let it cool off and felt the rear brake pedal stuck in the down position. It wouldnt budge at all when I tried to get it to move. Sprayed a good amount of Dupont teflon lube and unstuck it by hand. Still felt a bit weird but the bike started off the line and rode down the block fine. Started mildly shuddering again so I turned around and pulled back into the driveway. Pedal was moving but still didnt feel quite right. Also the bike was hard to roll into the garage. Played with the pedal a bit and the bike rolled better.

The bike is low mileage with up to date maintenance. I believe the brakes were done 8 months ago. I'll attach a link to my first thread here with pics and description of the rig.

viewtopic.php?t=38425

It sounds like I might get lucky and only have a lever issue here, any advice is welcome.


User avatar
Hoosier Jack
Posts: 419
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:21 am
Location: Terre Haute, IN
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by Hoosier Jack »

That really doesn't sound like a pedal issue, more like the rear brakes are locking up. My suggestion is to take the whole assembly off and take a look. You probably need to take the brake calipers off, then remove the pistons and clean things out real good. Don't forget to be sure all of the passages are clean. Put new seals in, replace the pistons if they are pitted.

The fact that the rotor began to glow indicates that it is now may be warped and you may need to find another one.

Wing admin has a great tutorial on the whole process here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=56
brecchi
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2017 12:39 pm
Location: La Plata, MD
Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing GL 1100 Standard with Velorex 562 sidecar

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by brecchi »

Thanks I'll go over the whole thing tomorrow as much as I can with my limited knowledge. Is there an easy way to completely disengage the back brake so I can at least roll it if I need to if it locks up again?
User avatar
Hoosier Jack
Posts: 419
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:21 am
Location: Terre Haute, IN
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by Hoosier Jack »

You can loosen the bleeder bolt and that should release the back brake. Of course you will have to diagnose the problem and then eventually bleed the brake again. It is not uncommon that a wheel will lock up if the bike has sat for a while, or maintenance has been neglected. Especially if the brake fluid is junk. It needs to be replaced every so often. I do mine every two years.
.
Looks like you're going to have to pull off the calipers and make sure the pads are ok and the pistons are moving. I really don't think you have a pedal problem. The pedal freezes up if the caliper system is not working. You may have a master cylinder rebuild to do also, and that is not hard, or expensive. This is too important not to do right and there are good tutorials.

If you do go ahead and rebuild things you may want to consider replacing the small section of old rubber brake line with a stainless steel part. The old lines break down and start to expand and makes the whole system that much less effective. Obviously the front brakes as well. Keep us posted.
brecchi
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2017 12:39 pm
Location: La Plata, MD
Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing GL 1100 Standard with Velorex 562 sidecar

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by brecchi »

Thanks for the advice. I loosened the bleeder bolt and it worked to keep the wheel from binding. I'll take it into a friends garage/shop in the next few days to isolate the problem.

I just took the rig out for a 15 mile ride on back roads. Sidecars feel weird for sure. I got it up to about 40 mph and I was good with that for now.

I thought there was another problem related to the brake binding up because the bike was shuddering and nearly stalling off the line. The brake wasn't rubbing at all and I realized that it was just really bad clutch technique. I guess I've been spoiled by newer bikes, although I remember my 85 Nighthawk being super easy and forgiving to slip. After a couple of practice starts I think I have it down.
User avatar
Hoosier Jack
Posts: 419
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:21 am
Location: Terre Haute, IN
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by Hoosier Jack »

My suggestion would be to temporarily take off the side car and get used to your new bike. I can imagine how much of a PIA that would be but the GW is a big, somewhat ponderous, bike and it would be nice that you get kinda used to it. Also find out if you have other problems.

I am somewhat biased because of an acquaintance of mine died this summer riding a Wing he was borrowing with a sidecar. Lost it and ran into a car. He was a long-time Gold Wing rider. Just my opinion.

Be sure to check:
Clutch cable and adjustment
Tire age
Look at brake fluid color (probably old and needs changed)
Brake pad depth
Throttle responsiveness (No hang ups)
The three yellow wires from the stator just forward of the battery. That connector burns up easily and the wires need to be connected directly, soldered and wrapped.

These are just safety concerns. BTW, the bike looks great The doggo too.
User avatar
mytown
Posts: 213
Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2012 11:54 am
Location: Carbondale, Illinois
Motorcycle: 1982 Goldwing Interstate

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by mytown »

brecchi wrote: Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:14 am Thanks for the advice. I loosened the bleeder bolt and it worked to keep the wheel from binding. I'll take it into a friends garage/shop in the next few days to isolate the problem.
It has been a few years since I had the same problem, but I believe that if you loosen/open the bleeder valve and the brake releases, it means that the return port in the rear master cylinder is blocked. If the wheel still won't move it means that the calipers are stuck.
User avatar
argosybob
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 6:18 am
Location: Middletown, New Jersey
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I Interstate, 1983 GL1100A Aspencade, 1982 GL1100 Interstate (project bike) 1985 California Sidecar Wingliner Trailer

Re: Brake lever pivot questions

Post by argosybob »

Hoosier Jack wrote: Tue Sep 05, 2017 6:10 am If you do go ahead and rebuild things you may want to consider replacing the small section of old rubber brake line with a stainless steel part. The old lines break down and start to expand and makes the whole system that much less effective. Obviously the front brakes as well. Keep us posted.
I couldn't agree more! get rid of the rubber brake lines and get some stainless steel lines made, they make a huge difference!


Post Reply