Fork question


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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aznyaz
Posts: 260
Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:36 pm
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100I

Fork question

Post by aznyaz »



I have noticed my right fork is leaking. On a recent stop at my trusty M/C repair shop for a new tire I pointed this out to my repairman to see if he would do the work. He said I would need new stanchions because mine had scoring (grooves worn in them). Upon taking a closer look I could see what appeared to be scoring but could not feel them when I ran my fingernail across said scoring.

My question, is there some leeway in determining if and when the stanchions need to be replaced if you see scoring but cannot feel them, or do you replace them as soon as there's evidence of scoring? Another question, what would be the best source to find new stanchions or can the old ones have the scoring polished out?

MJ


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Hoosier Jack
Posts: 419
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:21 am
Location: Terre Haute, IN
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Fork question

Post by Hoosier Jack »

I think what I would do is go ahead and change the seals and then see if they leak. They are pretty inexpensive and if the problem is resolved then fine. Or try one of the fork seal cleaning tools like this one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnp- ... motion-pro

They seem to cure a lot of leaks and are cheap. Nice thing to have around even if it didn't work this time. There are used forks on ebay from $25 up and you can rebuild them easily and, again, cheaply (if that is a real word). That also gives you a chance to buff them up and make them shine. If I were to rebuild the shocks I would replace the bushing even if it looked good. Piece of mind. Progressive springs can be had for under $100 if you are so inclined. I like what they did for my 1100.

Be cognizant of how your bike is feeling. (Bottoming out, poor steering) Don't want to loose too much fork oil and start really wearing out parts in there.
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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Fork question

Post by RBGERSON »

Do you mean fork tube? Yes they can be polished, if you can't feel it probably not a problem, where are the marks? the only area that is important is the inch or two where the seals move across. New ones are $$$ $300 plus and are only available from aftermarket forks makers. Like franks forks
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB
User avatar
aznyaz
Posts: 260
Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:36 pm
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100I

Re: Fork question

Post by aznyaz »

Thanks for the replies!

How do you use that Seal-Mate, and are there any tutorials out there regarding seal replacement. I've got PDF's of both the factory and Clymer manuals but haven't delved into them much since the graphic quality is poor and hard to read/see photos. Guess I'll start looking for youtube videos.

My repair guy also recommended Franks Forks. Guess I'll look him up, too.

MJ
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MikeB
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Re: Fork question

Post by MikeB »

aznyaz wrote: Wed Oct 11, 2017 11:50 am Thanks for the replies!

How do you use that Seal-Mate, and are there any tutorials out there regarding seal replacement. I've got PDF's of both the factory and Clymer manuals but haven't delved into them much since the graphic quality is poor and hard to read/see photos. Guess I'll start looking for youtube videos.

My repair guy also recommended Franks Forks. Guess I'll look him up, too.

MJ
Here is a link to the You Tube video you need:

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MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
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aznyaz
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:36 pm
Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100I

Re: Fork question

Post by aznyaz »

Wow! That's definitely worth a try. I'm assuming that the dust seal on my GL1100 will pry up in a similar fashion as this one pried down?

MJ
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WingAdmin
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Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
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2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Fork question

Post by WingAdmin »

If there are in fact scratches or scoring in the fork tubes, you can effect a temporary repair (maybe a year or two) using J-B weld. Fill the affected area with J-B Weld, allow it to cure, then polish it back down to the chrome with a high grit (1500 or 2000) sandpaper.
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Hoosier Jack
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Location: Terre Haute, IN
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Re: Fork question

Post by Hoosier Jack »

WingAdmin wrote: Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:30 pm If there are in fact scratches or scoring in the fork tubes, you can effect a temporary repair (maybe a year or two) using J-B weld. Fill the affected area with J-B Weld, allow it to cure, then polish it back down to the chrome with a high grit (1500 or 2000) sandpaper.
What a cool idea. Love to know if that works.
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aznyaz
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Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100I

Re: Fork question

Post by aznyaz »

I will have to check the tubes a little more closely to see if the grooves are more or less severe than I know. I dragged my finger nail across the tube that my guy pointed out and could barely feel anything.

If I try the J-B Weld fix I will let you all know.

Just a quick question from my previous post: Does the dust seal on the GL1100 forks pry up the same as the ones pried down in the video, or are there other things to consider?

MJ
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MikeB
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Contact:

Re: Fork question

Post by MikeB »

I do not know about the 1100 but the 1500 and 1800 fork dust seals do pry up easy enough. I imagine the 1100 would be the same.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
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SilverDave
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Location: Langley, BC
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 GoldWing Aspy

Re: Fork question

Post by SilverDave »

Heres another doo-dad that does the same thing , and is self aligning.
Its a little more $$$ . but very easy to use: Be sure to order the correct size

http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Seal_Doctor_Page.html
http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Video_S ... eE0Za2ZNok


My shade tree mechanic says that 95% of leaky seals are caused by bugs , or dirt under the seal itself .
Both of these devices fix that problem .. ( cannot handle deep scratches, however )

Mosta the work your trusted mechanic will charge you for is the removal and replacement . You can save almost 60% if you do that part yourself , and let him do the seal/ oil. replacement

Caution : If you try to do the seals yourself, be advised that there is a huge spring in there, just lying in wait , trying to break your jaw ..... LOL


SilverDave
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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Fork question

Post by RBGERSON »

You can also make a "seal mate" out of any thin plastic or metal ..like a soda bottle, soda can..etc. I did and they work just like the store bought..
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB
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WingAdmin
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Posts: 22241
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (sold)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2012 Suzuki Burgman 400 (wife's!)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Fork question

Post by WingAdmin »

Hoosier Jack wrote: Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:48 pm
WingAdmin wrote: Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:30 pm If there are in fact scratches or scoring in the fork tubes, you can effect a temporary repair (maybe a year or two) using J-B weld. Fill the affected area with J-B Weld, allow it to cure, then polish it back down to the chrome with a high grit (1500 or 2000) sandpaper.
What a cool idea. Love to know if that works.
It does work, it's actually a well-known (if not somewhat temporary) fix.


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